Engine squeaking?

[yamaha28]

When I kick over my blaster and it doesn't start I hear a squeal. It sounds like compressed air squeaking out. I checked the tranny oil just to be sure and the oil had a nice amount of gas in it so it was mud brown. That came from a previous carb leak which is now fixed. I changed the oil and the squeak is still there. I can't hear it when the motor is on but I can hear it when I shut off the motor and it is winding down. Also the blaster will idle high and sometimes start to rev up after a fast lap around my house. Is this something to be worried about? I was thinking the high idle has something to do with the tranny oil being bad and jets are still maybe a little lean. Any thoughts?

 

[Blaaster]

Could be an air leak, or a mouse in the exhaust If you had gas in the tranny the only way for it to get there, other than putting it in the filler is through the crank seal.

Could this be a worn crank bearings?

 

[quadsrus1]

Check for air leaks

 

[yamaha28]

that would require a leak down test? Never looked for leaks before

 

[StrokedTater244]

only way as said its for the gas to get in through the case halves. by what you are saying i am 99% sure you have an airleak. i would not ride it anymore until it was fixed. will not last long running like that.

 

[yamaha28]

alrighty, I will see where I can get a leak down tester... looks like maybe here?

Online motorcycle

 

[yamaha28]

I just sent a message to slickerthenyou he makes the testers. I will get one and see where we stand. please don't be crank seals!

 

[Blaaster]

Don't worry about seals they are a relative easy fix, more worry about bearings if that is the case.

 

[StrokedTater244]

I just sent a message to slickerthenyou he makes the testers. I will get one and see where we stand. please don't be crank seals!

yeah man crank seals are easy. if you have had gas in the tranny oil you have a for sure problem. either clutch side crank seal or the case halves are not sealed.

 

[quadsrus1]

Darn bro good luck on your problem keep us updated

 

[yamaha28]

alrighty, I hope the bearings are ok then! Fingers crossed for a clutch side crank seal lol. I will get a leak down tester and we will go from there. I will give an update when I get the tester. wow, not what I had in mind for this quad but I am sure we can get her running well once again.

 

[yamaha28]

good news! I decided to go outside and see if I can't spot the leak with my hands. I found a puff of air coming out of the reeds. I took the carb off and the two bolts on the left side were loose. I thought they just came loose somehow, so I took them all off to inspect and the gasket looked good and reeds looked good. I go to tighten them all back down and the two bolts on the left will not tighten. They will screw on for eternity and will never tighten down. That sucks! Would I be correct in assuming I have to recut the threads in the cylinder?

 

[slickerthanyou]

Yes bro they will need to be re-tapped. I just Pm'd ya. I agree with tater, if there is gas in the tranny oil, sounds like a case leak or seal leak on the clutch side!

 

[yamaha28]

going out to the garage soon to retap, I just took apart and cleaned everything on the carb since it was already out and probably due for a deep clean. The fuel/air screw was turned only 1/2 turn out. I don't know what for but I turned it out the 1 1/2 stock turns. I also figured out I have a 230 main and 32.5 pilot. I am going to bump the main up a couple and see how that works, if not then I will go only one up because it feels a little lean right now.

When I took off the carb I noticed the tors was fully unscrewed from the carb. I noticed this before and it happened again, what can I do to keep it locked in there? Locktight maybe?

I will send you the money within the next couple days slickerthenyou. Thanks!

 

[slickerthanyou]

If the motor is stock, reeds, carb, exhaust, 230 should be plenty! I'm not real familar with the tors unit as when i started on blasters i removed all that crap as i went with an after market carb. But to understand ya, are you saying the top of the carb (the part that screws onto the carb) keeps coming loose? May possibly need a new cap -DO NOT LOCKTIGHT THAT! If I were you I'd unhook all that Tors crap both mechanically and electrically there is a bunch of threads on here on how to... Also a tip if ya have a 2002 or older then you just unplug the connections tape them up and your done if it's a newer 03+ then there is some splicing i believe that needs to be done.

The leaktester is ready when you are. _bob

 

[yamaha28]

I have FMF pipe and silencer. 220 is stock so I think I would be good if you think its plenty.

You got it about the carb cap, I didn't know you can remove that whole setup. It is removed electrically but I haven't removed that whole thing. My brother did everything electrically and it runs so I assume he did it right. He know his stuff so I am not to worried lol.

 

[Awk08]

no, no, no
a 230 main is way too lean for an fmf pipe and silencer, start with a 290/270 and work down doing plug chops on each main you try
or that things gonna fry asap

and on a stock carb, there is supposed to be a "lockdown tab" that bolts on a holds the cap in place and tight
i'm sure someone on here has one ????

 

[yamaha28]

thats good to know! fried machines are no fun. I will order a 290 down to 250 and try those out. Start with 290 and plug chop and go down if needed. It gives ample blue smoke so I assumed it might be ok. I did a plug chop and one side of the insulator showed white and the other side showed dark brown. I suppose that was to lean. Thanks for the tip!

 

[slickerthanyou]

Gotta agree with Awk jet up, plug chop to perfection!

 

[1995blaster]

I just replaced a set of crank seals on mine really easy just take stuff off and stack it in the order it was took off. Also i got a leakdown tester from slick also i added a hand ball pump to it tho.