The primary drive gear. Moves in and out a significant amount.
There are only 6 things on that side.The primary drive gear. Moves in and out a significant amount.
How's the threads on the crank?For some reason it says I can’t upload pictures. Says the file is too big. Anyways I took the clutch cover back off and found the Nut to the primary drive gear completely backed off. It looks stripped too.. was I supposed to put like red loctite on it?? I don’t think I had the key lined up perfectly either. Live and learn. I noticed a good amount of metal coloration in the trans fluid. Hopefully nothing too severe
Most likely you will need bigger than that. 270 -300 maybe.you will have to plug chop to confirm.good luck . keyway still fit tightThreads seemed okay. I threw alittle loctite on it also. Seems good. Will let y’all know how it goes first ride. I do know I need to rejet it. It has a stock 230 main with a full fmf exhaust. Not too sure if I should have a 250 in her or not.
Stock pilotOk. 270 sounds like a starting spot. What about pilot and needle position? I ripped it around for about an hour and all seemed good. Gotta redo the adjustment for the clutch tho. No big deal tho. Def needs a good carb rebuild anyways.
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/carb-jetting-process-explained.48000/Honestly probably not. I know the float isn’t right because it’ll flood the carb out on occasion. I haven’t even touched the carb I’ve only had it a month and had engine trouble already so that was kinda the back burner. But now that the engine is all sorted out I’m looking at the other things like jetting ect. The kid I got it from didn’t even have the pipe hooked up properly. It leaked at the head ect. Air screw is typically 2-2-1/2 turns out right?
What height did you set your float at?The carb was flooding out bc the float was never fully closing off fuel flow. Thing runs flawless from 3/8-WOT. Now from idle to 3/8 is not as crisp as I would like. And backfires it seems. Like it’s too lean. Maybe lift the needle one?