Dual LED Headlights (pics)

I really want to see it with XML's I might have to order some too!!

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BTW it can take DX 1 month to ship you the goods, just fyi.

Before I forget, I have never stuck a multimeter on a blaster, are you sure it doesn't go over 18v? It would be really cool if we could just hook the driver board right into the stator on the bike. Also, you built a regulator, does it keep voltage below 18v's? if so, do you mind posting a schematic?
 
this is my original schematic that i drew to make the driver with
schematic.jpg
 
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Yeah, 4amps is alot - hence why i use a computer heat sink:-p They are rated for 2.8amps. 4 amps gets pretty hot even with my heat sink - that's with minimal air flow though.

So, just to clarify this.. Your driver accepts AC voltage???

If that's the case.. your my hero - my YT175 is AC current only. No regulation - Lights bulbs manages voltage and when 1 pops they all pop.
 
Never mind, I was a little concerned that the amperage (3-4amps) that you guys are discussing is too high and may eventually result in a burned out lighting coil on the stator. Best I can come up with is adding the stock bulb wattages:
Headlight: 45
Tail light: 3.4
Brake Lt : 21
Oil ind Lt: 3.4
73 watts

So lets say the Yamaha engineers over-designed the coil at least a little, so we should be able to safely round this off to 75watts.
W = Volts * Amps, to figure out the maximum current, just divide Watts by Volts (I used 15v b/c that's max rated output at 8000 rpms)
75w/15v = 5 Amps (total)

Depending on what is or isn't on your bike anymore, I'd say 3.5 amps for just the headlights is safe but 4 amps may be pushing it over the long term. (total of 25w for the brake/tail light divided by 15 volts is ~1.7 amps leaving only ~3.5 amps for the headlight)
 
Toss the stocker brake light and stick in a cheapo LED that draws nothing so you can have everything for the headlight. It looks like this Driver/LED combo can safely run at least one XML LED with no problems at all without any difficult wiring.

Oh, and don't listen to Rubbersalt his XML @ 4 amps has never even gotten warm to the touch. I can't even believe how cold that thing is lol.
 
cole454 said:
Stock lighting coils put out 55w. Most aftermarket coils put out 75w.
Click to expand...


Thanks Cole454, All I had to go on was the bulb ratings for each of the circuits. Now, that I think about it, the bulb rating idea was probably good for a peak rating for short term load. Where did you find that rating? It just so happens that I'm rebuilding a 2005 that I got all blown up and my schematics don't match the what original wiring was left in-tact. In some cases colors are wrong and other cases there are colors in the harness that don't exist in the schem. Also, there's only a CDI box nearly the size of a cigarette pack and no separate TORS module.
 
Oops, sorry BlasterMaster, didn't mean to jack your thread. I got off topic there. Anyway, assuming Cole454 is correct, then you're limited to about 3 amps even with LED tail/brake light, you still shouldn't go higher than 3.7 amps.

Btw, anyone got a source for an LED tail/brake light for a 2002 or newer Blasty?
 
Muggzy said:
Thanks Cole454, All I had to go on was the bulb ratings for each of the circuits. Now, that I think about it, the bulb rating idea was probably good for a peak rating for short term load. Where did you find that rating? It just so happens that I'm rebuilding a 2005 that I got all blown up and my schematics don't match the what original wiring was left in-tact. In some cases colors are wrong and other cases there are colors in the harness that don't exist in the schem. Also, there's only a CDI box nearly the size of a cigarette pack and no separate TORS module.
Click to expand...

I learned the stock rating from people on the forum. And the a/m rating because I have a Ricky Stator setup that is rated at 75w and I think they are the only ones that make an a/m coil for the blaster.
The 03+ blasters had the TORS system built into the CDI box. To delete TORS on those there is a wire you need to connect. Not sure which but a search here on the forums should find that out quick.
 
Muggzy said:
Oops, sorry BlasterMaster, didn't mean to jack your thread. I got off topic there. Anyway, assuming Cole454 is correct, then you're limited to about 3 amps even with LED tail/brake light, you still shouldn't go higher than 3.7 amps.

Btw, anyone got a source for an LED tail/brake light for a 2002 or newer Blasty?
Click to expand...

At 15v you are correct, you wouldn't want to push over 3.7 amps but these LED's operate at 3.7v's and 2.8 amps. We are over amping our LED's to 4 amps to gain more output.

If the LED operates at 3.7v's @ 4 amps = 14.8W

If we factor in inefficiencies at 20 percent; 14.8 * 1.2 = 17.76w total draw per LED.

So two LED's would equal 35.52w drawn from the coil which is 9.48w lower than the stock headlight.

OR you can have 3 XML's running at 3amps (3000+ lumens), 3.7 * 3 = 11.1 * 1.2 = 13.32 * 3 = 39.96w. If the stock bulb is 45 watts that leaves you with 5.04watts less than the stock headlight which produces less than 600 lumens. This mod will give you 5 times the brightness of the stock setup, better focusing, double the flood, triple the throw and because of the less power draw you could even run a lighted LED whip or something.

Nathan had his blaster running with the light on and we turned on our XML and just one XML produced so much more light than the blaster that you couldn't tell that the blaster even had its light on ;)
 
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I've got 2 XML-T6 LEDs. 1 Is my spot light that stomps the stock blaster head light horribly. It has better flood and WAY better throw.

The 2nd is a P60(flashlight) drop in. It has horrible heatsinking and cant take more than 2 amps without overheating. This module is nothing but flood and will rival the stock blaster headlight in the flood department.

Time to build 1 of them voltage regulators for my YT175 and stick my XML's on it! :)


Also, the inefficiency that Spywell is talking about is the drivers. They normaly accept a wide range of voltages and out put a very steady voltage and steady current. Battery in line is not needed.
 
We're probably getting over a lot of people's heads here, but are you using that schematic that BlasteMaster posted? If so, that's a linear regulator and the current drain on the supply (stator) will be the same as what the LEDs are using. Or are you using some sort of switching regulator that I missed somewhere?
 
Muggzy said:
We're probably getting over a lot of people's heads here, but are you using that schematic that BlasteMaster posted? If so, that's a linear regulator and the current drain on the supply (stator) will be the same as what the LEDs are using. Or are you using some sort of switching regulator that I missed somewhere?
Click to expand...

Buck Driver: 6-18V 3000mA 3-Mode Circuit Board for XM-LT60 Emitters - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

Hey RubberSalt, we forgot to take into account that this Driver operates at a minimum of 6v's, if we don't throw a battery in line this LED + Driver would shut off if the Blaster stator ever goes below 6v's.

Our math is still accurate but you would have to use a different driver, one that operates at 3v or higher.

To keep this thread simple and non confusing an XML + Driver which exports exactly 2.8amps with 83% efficiencys @ 6v's would be (6v * 2.8) 1.17 = 19.65w per LED. One LED + driver should have no problem replacing a stock configuration but to use two XML's and two Drivers you would have to throw a battery in line or maybe just several capacitors ;)

The reason I want to use this Driver specifically is because it can be thrown right in line with the stator and accept all the voltage fluxuations nonchalant! This makes everything really simple and allows anyone who purchases this driver to do this mod on their blaster.

If this is still confusing I am sure Rubbersalt wouldn't mind taking video of his setup, I am sure once people see the video and the simplicity they will go nuts over this mod.
 
Spywell said:
Buck Driver: 6-18V 3000mA 3-Mode Circuit Board for XM-LT60 Emitters - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

If this is still confusing I am sure Rubbersalt wouldn't mind taking video of his setup, I am sure once people see the video and the simplicity they will go nuts over this mod.
Click to expand...

No, I totally get it. Awesome choice of components. I'd no idea that LEDs had gotten this far in just the two years since I worked with them. If you have a choice of peak wavelength outputs from the LED modules, you might wanna see if you can get them around 700nm. That's around peak sensitivity for the human eye. They'll effectively be even brighter for the same luminous output.
 
Today im putting my regulator/lighting system together. Once(and hopefully) it works, i will line it up to our blaster. Show just how mean a SINGLE xml at 4 amps is.

Me and spywell have been slacking really bad. Weather has been 100-110 degrees almost everday this entire summer >.<


Our toys are not worth a heat stroke... yet.
 
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