Dt 200 motor swap question

Oct 8, 2011
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nova scotia
i gotta 86 dt 200 and having thoughts of swaping the motors from it and my blaster, im thinking i wanna go with the blaster gears in the tranny but think would be easier to eliminate the power valve because would like to keep simplicity pluss no battrey . would it be as simple as just putting my stater plate in the dt motor to get it running
 
if it was my rebuild i would go the extra mile and put a small scooter battery in to make the power valve work if you want to use the blaster gears you have to use the primary gears to i would kill for those dt gears...
 
should keep it but, i had the pipe off the dt engine and turning the key seen the full movement of the powervalve and i dono dident seem like much of anything just would maybe seem better eliminating it due to the complex wireing mounting of the valve cables battry and all the other complacating parts that arnt easy to find due to the dts being so rare. just the liquid cooling idea of it and its 32 hp is what im looking at.
 
Here is some info you might want .... if your serious about the swap, I have bolded info about powervalve I:I

Preface: I did not write anything after this point just thought it might help you ...


The primary differences in the Blaster engine's bottom end and the 37F and 4AN(Latin American 93-00 DT200R and DT200) bottom end are very small.

First, Some Important facts about swap

1) Blaster pistons are the exact same as DT200 and DT200R pistons as are the cylinder sleeves(I'll take a pic if you want clarification).

2)I run a Ninja 250r fan, and highly recommend a fan. Not hard to wire in, I ran mine off the battery w/ a set up to let it go off manually or automatically when the rocker switch is placed in a certain postion.
RZ350 radiators work, CRF250X, etc. Just don't get a radiator so big the impeller can't move the coolant efficiently.
In order to get the cooling system to work on the blaster bottom end you'll need one of the custom water pump drive gear for the DT clutch cover.
A DT125L/C MK1,2,3 Waterpump driven gear, and main waterpump shaft gear, as outlined way below or RD125L/C wp driven gear and waterpump gear
C) Have the DT 200 clutch basket machined to fit the bushing which is located in the center of the blaster clutch basket. With the Blaster bushing in the DT basket drive gear/primary drive gear it will fit on the blaster tranny shaft. Also you will have a taller more usable gear ratios.

3) I recommend you make your own harness, Run a 28mm or larger carb on this bike, although if you leave it stock it will perform fine with the 26mm. The 26mm is the size used on the 84-87 canadian models. Same mikuni as blaster just no tors...
The 4AN as I describe also works w/ the blaster bottom end. It was prolly the most powerful of all the DT's... had 33.5-34.5HP varying by magazine/ad you read.
Here's a brief synopsis:
Differences in 37F, 4AN, and blaster cases...

The cases are narrower, so if you use an engine out of the DT you will need to make some shims or bushings of the correct thickness to mount the engine into the blaster frame.

Other than that mounting the engine is a snap. The RZ350, Ninja250r, ATC250r, YFZ450 radiator are all good choices.

The DT200 has taller gears and is designed for dual purpose and street use. Also, the engine has a tachometer gear which runs to where the autolube is installed.

If you do the swap I'm sure you'll want to run the YPVS powervalve system. Regardless of what "Dude" and other people on this forum say the powervalve makes a very big difference in the performance of this engine. In order for this to work you need the following components:
DT200 84-87(88 in greece in iran) Stator
DT200 Servomotor
DT200 YPVS control box
DT200 CDI
DT200 voltage regulator and harness
12V battery OR Zeeltronics or similar battery eliminator kit.

The powervalves are operated by the cables from the servo motor, the servo open/closes the rotary power valve. the servo is actavated from a signal from the CDI via the YPVS controller (black box) hence why you need a battery or condenser, powervalves are elctrically operated.Also there are 2 cables which come off of the servomotor and as the servomotor reads data from the cdi they begin to pull on the linkage located on the DT's cylinder opening the powervalve.



Part 2: SWAPPING THE DT CYLINDER ONTO THE YFS200 BLASTER CASES
Here's what I would do, if you plan on using the bike for the trails you can use your Blaster engine cases.
In order to do this you will need to buy a RD125L/C water pump, and water pump drive gear. Also a DT125L/C MK1, MK2, or MK3 water pump gear, and waterpump. If you take the DT200 water pump, and water pump drive gear out and put the other water pump parts in your DT clutch cover it will allow you to use the Stock blaster basket/primary drive gear.

All aftermarket and stock blaster sleeves, pistons, bottom gaskets, exhausts, reedgaskets, and reeds work on the DT cylinder.

There somewhere is a kit which eliminates the entire YPVS electronics system. It makes the powervalve run off the RPMS of the engine much like the Kawasaki (KIPS). This is not as accurate as the electronic YPVS control, but it sure is cheaper and less of a headache. You gain torque/horse on the low end, but lose some on mid/top because it doesn't maximize the exhaust port duration like the electronic system does.[/QUOTE]
 
its 32hp because of the powervalve

sounds like the power valve should stay, but i always thought the powervalve tunes low end power (what the dt was made for) if u hold the bike wide open the powervalve opens all the way. givving peak power (32hp) hows this power lost without the power valve :-/ it might not come in as soon but wouldent the power still be there
 
alsoo thought the powervavle was put in for road emissions ive drivin this bike with the valve disconnected and it is noticeable but not drastic... i thought
 
It will be easyier to throw a reed cage and reeds in there but the main perk to a dt swap is the water cooling and the powervalve. Is it worth all the work just to make it water cooled?
 
way worth the water cooling i kinda dident want to rip the bike apart that the engine came out of thats why i wanted to elimiate the powervavle while it would be in the blaster, with the water cooling the engine makes 32 horse thats gotta do something even if it made the same as a blaster the water cooling alone would add to reliability aswell as longer trips without overheating, THATS if the dts motors wireing was as easy as just putting a blaster stator plate under the flywheel that would give you all the power to your origional blasters components??? the dts wiring is complicating and rare i had recently burnt out a rectifier for that damn dt power valve and the best price on one i could find was $220. To much money to runn the DT has power reeds and cage stock and switching tranny gears would be a nights work. so dos anyone know if the flywheel and stator are changable and if so can it be as easy as doing it this way?
 
The Exhaust port was higher in the DT cylinder so the blaster sleeve will not fit for sure
The power valve open when engine reach about 6000rpm.
Run with powervalve always wide open make big lost of low-end power
I see it when I run my bike with a low or dead battery...
PikledBeats talk about a kit for another way to make the powervalve work?
Where we can buy it?
 
It will be easyier to throw a reed cage and reeds in there but the main perk to a dt swap is the water cooling and the powervalve. Is it worth all the work just to make it water cooled?

Well, I'd say the power advantages of the DT200 cylinder are:
1) Water cooling for consistent cylinder temperature (power) which allows:
2) closer jetting,
3) closer piston clearance and
4) closer (higher) compression tolerances and
5) more timing advance with less chance of overheating and detonation.
6) The Powervalve increases torque from 1000-6000rpm
7) which allows higher rpm and power porting from 6000-8000rpm

Also, there may be some weight savings (cylinder weighs less even with water & rad)
and it is a more compact package, slightly quieter and not thermally shocked if you hit water.
This is balanced by the disadvantages of a more complicated system (possible failures) of rad, hoses, and pump.

So without the powervalve functioning you are losing one big advantage of this head,
but still gaining 6 huge power making advantages nearly doubling the peak power.

How bad is the loss of low end torque?
We didn't notice at first because the main jetting was off.
As jetting was improved, the huge peak power difference becomes much more apparent.
Not gutless, but slightly less than the stock Blaster and a BIG power rush on top end.

What can be done about low end torque without getting the powervalve electronics functioning?
1) decrease piston to head clearance.
2) increase compression
3) lower cylinder (exhaust port timing) (all can be accomplished at the same time)
4) advance timing
5) increase displacement, stroker or bore kit.
6) intake divider (PowerNow or similar)
7) longer pipe, tuned more to mid range
All of these will increase low end power. Haven't tried any yet.
May be a while, too much snow for testing at the moment.

But I like the idea of getting the powervalve working, either with a cable to the throttle,
backpressure operated, or off the oil pump drive as Roostinshee showed in another post.
If we had all the electronics, it might be worth hooking it up, complication/battery/wiring be darned,
but we don't. So we have to look for another way. In the meantime, this thing goes like heck!

Why not just put a YZ250 motor in it?
I went that route (sort of) with a motocross engine in my Blaster.
Much more complicated. New mounts, cut swingarm, more rad needed, custom pipe fabrication,
frame interference or modification, weld on brackets, more vibration (that's just the feeling of POWER, boy!),
custom airbox, not for the faint of heart. Most of these MX swaps take months and many of them just never get finished.

The DT200 cylinder swap was quick and tidy and delivers double the HP of the Blaster (3/4 a MX250)
with the same excellent Blaster gear ratios.
MX gearing suck unless you are riding in open country. I have to put up with a too tall 1st and a short 5th gear.
MX has to slip clutch constantly over the rocks and yet limited top speed even if the power seems unlimited.
Yup, I like the DT200 cylinder swap. Impressive.
 
I guess I'm opinionated on the pv, I used to avidly race atv mx and I thought it made quite a difference. However, some feel different. Also when I said the blaster sleeve fits, I forgot to note the modifications I performed to the sleeve. There's a very small difference between the two but you are correct Vince.