Douglas aluminum rims=GARBAGE!

Demo4o1

Member
Jan 29, 2011
2,791
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Providence, RI
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some of u may have read my old thread about how TWO mechanics not just one, bent my rims when mounting new tires. BACK TO BACK. so im thinking wtf these guys are morons.

I just got home from a ride but on my return to home i hit the corner a bit too fast and slid into a curb front wheel 1st. i looked at the front ITP and it was gauged a bit. So i pulled in my driveway and did further more inspection, the back was gauged alot worst then the front and the front absorbed most of the impact if not ALL. Im thinking wtf i hope i didnt whopped the rim. i put it on a stand, started it, put it in gear and yes.. the SOB was wobbling. NOW im thinking i hope its the rim and not the axle, or the spacers. Its the rim. but im gonna put on my extra set to make sure its not the axle or spacers right now.

My conclusion? DOUGLAS RIMS are total trash. i got what i payed for.. any1 selling a pair of rear 10" rims?? lol
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Blue lable rims are to thin @ .125. Those are the cheapest and lightest douglas available. If you buy the thicker .190 you wont see this kind of carnage. I run douglas on all my rides but never .125 or blue lables.
 
Douglas aluminum rims come with different levels. Those are common to bend but lightweight. Just use and adjustable wrench to bend them back.
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Wheel Description
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Douglas Wheel halves come in two different shapes, commonly referred to as a "BELL" and a "NOSE".
The BELL shape creates the maximum amount of clearance inside the wheel for brake and steering parts.
The NOSE shape has a smaller drop center for ease of tire mounting.
Each completed wheel must contain at least 1 NOSE half for ease of tire mounting.

Following each part number will be a description of the wheel that might look like this:
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM. The first 8 refers to the wheel diameter, measured from the tire bead seat.
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM. The second 8 refers to the wheel width, measured from the inside bead to the inside bead.
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM. The 3B refers to the width of the inside half of the wheel, in this case a BELL shape.
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM. The 5N refers to the width of the outside half of the wheel, in this case in a nose shape.
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM. This 4/110 refers to the bolt pattern. It has 4 bolt holes, equally spread around a 110-millimeter diameter circle.
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM. This .125 refers to the thickness of the material used in the wheels, in this case .125 inch thick.
8x8 3B+5N 4/110.125 10MM. This 10MM refers to the size of the bolt hole, in this case 10 millimeters.
Other terms found in wheel descriptions will include IR for integral reinforcing rings, IB for integral beadlocks, BILLET for a billet center, BB for a conventional center, and S for bead retention screws.

HIGH PERFORMANCE: Douglas Wheels are made from high strength 6061 aluminum alloy that is heat treated and aged for maximum durability and uniform strength. Our wheels are made in three different strengths, to cover every need.
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STANDARD STRENGTH: Our "BLUE LABEL" wheels are made .125 inch thick material, and are ideal for use in dunes and recreational riding.

HIGH- STRENGTH LIGHTWEIGHT. Our "BLACK LABEL" wheels are made from .160 inch thick material, and are designed for competition use, in such events as Moto-Cross, TT's, and Flat Track.
SUPER STRONG. Our "RED LABEL" wheels are made from .190 inch thick material and are virtually indestructible, yet still very light. They are designed for rough use such as desert, cross county and clay tracks.
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BEADLOCKS AND REINFORCING RINGS. Beadlocks and reinforcing rings are available for RED LABEL wheels. Please contact us for stock availability and estimated delivery times.
 
look at tit this way.. its easyer to replace a rim than it is to replace a axle or swing arm, your wheels are the first line of defence...

cough up the coin and get black lables.. the 190s... keep them clean and enjoy
 
Blue lable rims are to thin @ .125. Those are the cheapest and lightest douglas available. If you buy the thicker .190 you wont see this kind of carnage. I run douglas on all my rides but never .125 or blue lables.

True story.....125's are like tin cans
 
definatly .190s is what you need if you like curb stompin, lol, no bashing intended haha, but im no hard core rider that races but im gettin douglas rims and im definatly getting .190s so i know they will be good no matter the terrain
 
yea im PISSED. bc i just bought them not too long ago and i didnt slide into the curb that hard.. well it DID almost throw me over the bars hehe.. ive heard of these blue labels being some sh*t but i was being a cheap prick now look at me. i prolly have to buy another rim, pay 25 to get it mounted.. price for all that i might as well leave the bastard like that and put the doe into a bigger carb. but it wobbles now not just a bent the SOB wobbles but i just took it for another spin up and down the street i didnt notice the wobble. just the thought or knowing i have a FKd up rim bothers me. i liked to keep it mint. fkd up bc i was debating on getting the red labels and they didnt even cost that much more... thats what i get. i kinda knew this happen bc i ride rough and trails near me have alot of rocks and roots and sh*t..
 
the fronts are very durable and thick. theyre ITPS what model idk but theyre thick and very light. the rears im def gonna get the reds/190. i'll get just one for now to replace this one and when the other side breaks i'll replace it then.. lol.. would be nice to get some beadlocks but thats MAD expensive.. i saw a complete set with no tires on CL for like 180 from a shee but 8" rear. i shoudve jumped on it but i liked the 10" rim better plus i'd have to get new tires and the hubs... too much sh*t for me
 
i have douglas rims with champion beadlock conversions on them, got them for 125 with 1 good holeshot and 1 that was ripped from the bead to the tread.


i like the 8" wheels better for trails especially with the little 18's on there...just not a lot of sidewall to soak up the bumps