DIY-Extened Rear Plastics Up To 5"

burndout

Member
Jan 23, 2011
188
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Tulsa, Oklahoma
Recently I read a post in the Body section what a fella slid his plastics back and it looked pretty good. I decided to have a go at it as it stated you only needed to "cut the trunck out and thats it", not to discredit his post but there was ALOT more involved than that. Here is the steps I took:

1 - Cut out the trunk box at the 90* angle where it becomes vertical. Clean up all the edges ( I used a box knife ) and get all your line straight.
trunktrim.jpg

2 - Remove the front mounting holes ( where the plastics use to bolt up ) This is very easily done but dont cut too close to the air box or remove any material where the bolts come in from the bottom.
plasticbrackettrim.jpg

3 - At this point you have began to notice that if you push down on the front of the plastics it rocks back and forth about 2 inches. If you try and put the seat on it either will NOT lock in the front or the latch is not long enough in the rear. This is because the old mid mounting bracket on the frame need to be removed, a quick zip and they are gone, clean them up so they dont cut you or your plastics!
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4 - Put the plastics back on once the brackets have been removed and you will notice that everything fits flat on the frame, make sure everything is clear of the plastics and that it is fitting the way you want it.
 
5 - I am using a Kasea seat on my bike ( it was the only good one I had ) and needed to trim the bottom of the seat so it would lay flat on the plastics, the place where it use to sit has a 'dip' in the plastics but is now a few inches back. Without this the front of the seat sat too high and may a big gap between the seat and plastics 'body line', your seat MAY be different, always check twice before cutting!
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6 - Slide it all back together, at this point you notice that you can move the plastics to the desired length, I put mine back 5 inches in the pics.
7 - Once you locate the desired spot you may need to notch where the bottom back of the seat meets the plastics, I notced mine a little too deep in the pics, but I'll give it a fix later.
trunktrim.jpg
 
8 - Once the notch's have been made, put the seat back on and make sure you like where it is.
9 - Now that everything is cut and in place you can secure it to the frame. I do not like the idea of just drilling a hole in the frame or self tapping screws, so I plan on picking up a stretch of angle iron and tacking it up to the frame and mounting it this way, or some 2 sided tape may do you well - I haven't decided how I will mount mine quite yet and it will depend on your ability/skill. 10 - Once mounted feel free to find some mud if you did it for better protection or some good turns and notice all the extra room you have to move around the bike!
 
****Note**** I will not be using the stock heal guards or the lower rear bracket as my fenders are shaved AND that the air box to carb tube will need to be modded, I will be making a silicone boot so this was not a concern for me, it may be for you! Mod at your own RISK!!

Stocker
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Longer
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frontside.jpg

Side.jpg
 
OK??????????????????????

That kinda make me laugh, while waiting on parts to arive I decided to try this out on some spare plastics, kinda like the look. I did some more trimming today on the under side of the seat to bring the side lower on the plastics. I dont think it looks that bad but is NOT worth all the work!
 
Yea, I was going to look into this soon. I was probably only going to move mine back like 1-2 inches though. I just need it back far enough to keep the mud off my back. I will still be able to use the stock fender supports too with a bit of elbow grease. I'll have to actually look and see if it's an easy move though.
 
I did trim the bottom of my seat but not near that much... Whole thing took me about an hour and a half... I thought it was well worth it..

I didnt write a DIY,cause of someone saying my way wasnt "right" ..

Didnt take long and was free..
 
not bad man, with some extra trimming and work you can help get rid of the nasty gap between the fenders and the seat, that was the toughest part for me. and again this is a blaster freek and battbike mod and they deserve credit for it.
 
Super noober, thanks for heads up about blasterfreak and battmod, I did some searching and didn't see there posts, tons of credit to them!
I did alot of trimming so far, I will be taking another stab at it today after work and try to close the gap!
 
I haven't done it yet, but I will probably be more conservative and move it back 1.25". I just want a little extra length to keep my back clean. I went out and took a look at it. It's actually quite easy to move it 1.25" without doing much modding at all. You can keep the rear tool box too. When you look at the back plastic where the plastic has the hole for the seat latch to go into, there is about 1.25" of free plastic space between there and the tool box. Simply move it 1.25" back cut a new latch hole and drill new drill holes. The difference is small enough that you can just bend your side plastic support brackets and they will work too still. You also won't have to make a trunk lid for it if you move it back only 1.25". That's all a matter of preference. I look forward to the added room to lean in turns. For those doing it just as a matter of aesthetics.....well that all comes down to preference. :D.....but keep in mind, just because you have a +3 swingarm doesn't mean you extend the plastic 3" if you want the same look as before. The swingarm sits at an angle even when you are sitting on it. From a horizontal axis, you may or may not have to go shorter than 3". This depends on your ride height and how much your plastic squats though. If you want to be exact about it, all you have to do is measure it out. If your plastic sits almost horizontal with you on the quad but the swingarm is still diagonal, the "straight" plastic will compensate for "3" of a "non-straight" swingarm....so moving the plastic back only 2.5" for example might be more proportionate.....but like I said.....that is all a matter of PREFERENCE and moving it farther back will allow more room for you to lean through corners without sitting on the fenders which angers me with stock plastic.

My only issue is the added space between the intake and carb. What did you guys use? Just some couplers? If I put some work into that connection, I could actually make jetting MUCH easier if I could get the coupling to slide back instead of off/on like the stock one. I really need to make the air box I have in mind, but I've just been lazy. :(
 
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Here is a short update......I'm nowhere close to done, but I did it differently since I wanted to retain my tool box. I'm about 1.5" back now. Might go a tid bit more back, but not much(if at all). The first pics are the stock ones and the 2nd is 1.5" back.
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