how do you know if you need new crank rod. my quad takes about 50 kicks to start even when its warm i think its the top end from suckin to muc dirt from running no lid but idk
crank rod
- Thread starter gwatt5
- Start date
Have you done a leak down test and a compression test yet ?
Those are two things you should do, before you do anymore riding.
to know if you have a rod and crank issue you have to take the top end of the motor off and look at the crank and rod and use a feeler gauge to measure the side to side clearing and if it has any play, if you try to lift up or push down on the rod. while connected to the crank.
Usually if you have a bad rod and crank, you hear some noise or the motor locks up,
To check to see if the rod or crank is bent, you would have to split the cases and remove it and do some measuring and maybe even tak it to a shop for them to inspect.
Sporty
Those are two things you should do, before you do anymore riding.
to know if you have a rod and crank issue you have to take the top end of the motor off and look at the crank and rod and use a feeler gauge to measure the side to side clearing and if it has any play, if you try to lift up or push down on the rod. while connected to the crank.
Usually if you have a bad rod and crank, you hear some noise or the motor locks up,
To check to see if the rod or crank is bent, you would have to split the cases and remove it and do some measuring and maybe even tak it to a shop for them to inspect.
Sporty
i def dont have any compression i know that. i can push it down with one finger. im not riding it anymore and there is noise in the motor but i think its piston slap. and im dropping it off at a shop tuesday
im in ct but a hr and half away from him my friend got it from someone named dennis in southington hes real good at building motors to. his quad rips now
Nice sounds good , Get yourself a Compression tester and Leak down tester ! , the first tools to use on a blasty !
about 25-30 for compression tester at local auto parts store , about 36 for the leak down tester i believe
When you took the lid off did you re-jet to compensate for more air in the mix.
If you did not increase the main jet size, before you fry the next top end,check your jetting and plug chop to confirmm
If you did not increase the main jet size, before you fry the next top end,check your jetting and plug chop to confirmm
When it was running good before I took the lid on it didn't have a lot of power but when I took the lid off it was perfect
Any changes to breathing should be followed by the following.
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
