could this cause it too...

very strange it would be nice to remove it from the cases that way you wouldnt need to mod a piston each rebuild but it looks as though it would stil lbe coming down dangerously close to the crank blocks,id mill .050 off the piston skirt,that must be a stroker
 
very strange it would be nice to remove it from the cases that way you wouldnt need to mod a piston each rebuild but it looks as though it would stil lbe coming down dangerously close to the crank blocks,id mill .050 off the piston skirt,that must be a stroker

yea i don't get why its hitting, i would like to take it off the case but the only way i could think of doing it would be split the case and i don't have the time or the tools to do so lol. idk how to tell if its a stroker crank. i know on the side of the connecting rod it just says hot rods , but if it was lets say a 4mm wouldn't it hit the head when you turn it over cause of the longer stroke?..

thanks your you help denny :)
 
told you i thought it had to be a stoker! lol no but at least you know its not just a fluke piston now, and as far as hitting the head with the piston i would think it would, but i guess stock squish clearance is almost 1/10 inch which is 2.5mm and a 4 mil stroker would only raise the piston 2 mil at TDC...so i guess its possible it wouldnt hit? but i would think that would make your compression really high
 
told you i thought it had to be a stoker! lol no but at least you know its not just a fluke piston now, and as far as hitting the head with the piston i would think it would, but i guess stock squish clearance is almost 1/10 inch which is 2.5mm and a 4 mil stroker would only raise the piston 2 mil at TDC...so i guess its possible it wouldnt hit? but i would think that would make your compression really high

hmm maybe thats why the guy befor me put 2 base head gaskets on it. but when i replaced it with 1 the comp did go up a good bit but it still didn't hit the head that i kno of but it could be pretty close ..
 
yeah i would guess him using those 2 base gaskets would be his equivalent of a spacer plate....i would be really interested to know what your piston to head clearance is...im guessing its REAL close...and when was the last time you did a rebuild on it? im sayin with a fresh rebuild your gonna be crazy high comp numbers....idk what you were when you checked it last...but if you were like 150+ on a old top end then your gonna be up around 180-200 on a fresh topend haha
 
yeah i would guess him using those 2 base gaskets would be his equivalent of a spacer plate....i would be really interested to know what your piston to head clearance is...im guessing its REAL close...and when was the last time you did a rebuild on it? im sayin with a fresh rebuild your gonna be crazy high comp numbers....idk what you were when you checked it last...but if you were like 150+ on a old top end then your gonna be up around 180-200 on a fresh topend haha

well i never really did a rebuild on it. i got a blaster with the vitos 240bbk all built up and it had alot of comp i could barely kick it sitting down haha. and i sent the top end out for porting and i just replaced the crappy cast piston with a forged wiseco /vitos piston and put it in. idk when i put the jug on with the head off and the piston at tdc, it was pretty much flush with the head and i guess the head gasket made it not hit the head. when i am ready to put my motor together ill take a feeler guage and see where my piston is at at tdc..
 
hold on hold on. was that towards me or the guy that was saying about the bore job. if its towards me, you need to go open up an engine and see what the f*ck a cylinder is. but if it wasnt, ok.

whoa calm down tough guy! I:I seemed to me he was talking about the other guy. lol kids.....
 
it looks to me it's a stroker crank. you can tell by the colors on the crank by the lower crank bearing it's been welded. It has to be at least a +4 to hit like that.
 
it would be cool if it was a stroker lol.. i looked on ebay and the hot rods 4mm cranks don't look like the 1 i have maybe its a old school crank?.. and if it was wouldn't my ports be off cause of the longer stroke.
 
well that's why he used 2 base gaskets to keep it in tolerence. i use 2 base gaskets also with a +3 but depends what was done to the motor so maybe you should contact the guy you bought it from to find out more info on the way the motor was setup.
 
well that's why he used 2 base gaskets to keep it in tolerence. i use 2 base gaskets also with a +3 but depends what was done to the motor so maybe you should contact the guy you bought it from to find out more info on the way the motor was setup.

yea i was thinking thats why he did it, the guy i got it off of don't no any thing about blasters he got it that way also and only ran a little gas threw the motor cause he put some old gas in it and it fouled the plug and it wouldn't start thats why he sold it to me cheapp lol ..does any 1 have a pic of a stock crank at BDC with out the piston on the crank..
 
well i got it bored out and i put the new piston in and the piston does come out of the jug about .060 that's with out the head gasket on, so i am going to use two base head gaskets and see how it does.. and i got .050 takin off the piston skirt and it clears with no probs..
 
ideally you want a zero deck at TDC and about .045 of squish clearance .two base gaskets wont accomplish that ,actually 3 would be closer but still a mickey mouse fix ..call up cometic they can make you a no blow base gasket out of strong copper the exact thickness you want and for about 25 bucks