Clutch problem

RamboNater

RamboNater

New Member
May 9, 2012
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Alright so my kick-start has been jamming up and that started to bring about suspicion in me. I had already been trail riding on my blaster and the clutch was pretty hard to use. I got idk about 7 hours into it. well i fixed my clutch cable, loosened it, and the clutch worked like a charm. Well the other day i was working on it and started wondering about the oil level. Turns out, the guy i got it from all but drained the oil from the quad before he sold it. All this time i had been riding on about a little more than half a cup of oil.. X( We quickly filled her up with oil but she wouldnt start. Well today i tried kicking it and she started great, but when i shift into gear, while still holding the clutch mind you, the quad starts to drive forward, then die because of low rpm from idle. I cant seem to adjust it. So next try i added some throttle when shifting. i found that it helps, the quad starts to move but halfway through the clutch, there is a spot where it seems like the motor is in no gear. then towards the end of the clutch it starts to move again.. what could this be? do i need to replace the clutch?
 
Ok so i see the little indicator point on the clutch but what is it supposed to be aligned with?
Also i am using car quest all season sae 5w-30. And yes the indicator lies, I've started it up and killed it only to find the oil level empty, I've been running and killing it and adding oil, still hasn't fixed the problem though
 
You need to add about 3/4 of a quart when it is empty, 650ml. There might not be a visible line in the sight glass.
 
That's about were i got it, in at a great level now, but still when i squeeze the clutch in neutral and shift into 1st the quad moves and dies even though i am still squeezing the clutch, and now my kick start leg is jamming up to the point were it won't move
 
First thing to do is look on the oil bottle and see if it has friction modifiers or says "Wet clutch compatible". If it doesn't say "compatible" or if it has modifiers you "MUST" drain it and use correct oil. The arrow on clutch arm aligns with a mark on case, best to look in the manual for directions to adjust it.

Here, I found it for you : http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/ :D

Also, sometimes depending on type of oil, ect, sometimes clutch will "stick" until it's warmed up good. On first start-up pull and release clutch while in neutral while warming engine. No matter what the temp is you should warm engine until fins are warm/almost hot to touch before you hammer on it. I:I
 
The shifting from neutral to 1st and it lurching, kinda sounds like you just need to adjust that lever. If you are on the clutch side, and you look thru to the other side at the lever, you should see a mark there, just before the lever, on the case...if not, the point on the lever should be damn near perpendicular to the "centerline" of the engine. There is a good video on You Tube that shows assembling and adjusting the clutch. Here should be the link: Yamaha Blaster Clutch Assembly - YouTube Good luck.
 
the can says nothing about compability, all i found is says "recommended for gasoline powered cars, light trucks, cans and sport utility vehicles wre API SM or SL is recommended.
Ive used the udjuster up by the handlebar lever, but that didnt help much, here is a pick of the lever on the case
2012-05-17193344.jpg

also what do i do about the kick start leg? it wont even budge now! i can jump on it and it wont move, it usually gets stiff but i can get it to move if i kick it hard, but this, its just stuck!
Thank you for the help you have provided so far!
 
ok i think the blasty is seized up.. its cold, i didnt even run it for more than 10 minutes in idle.. the kick start wont move, i even tried prying it with a metal bar, to get some leverage.. nothing, im scared im going to snap my kick start thats how hard i am pushing on it. im rather disapointed, i always told everyone two strokes are better, sad this happend, might have to switch to a 4
 
RamboNater said:
ok i think the blasty is seized up.. its cold, i didnt even run it for more than 10 minutes in idle.. the kick start wont move, i even tried prying it with a metal bar, to get some leverage.. nothing, im scared im going to snap my kick start thats how hard i am pushing on it. im rather disapointed, i always told everyone two strokes are better, sad this happend, might have to switch to a 4
Click to expand...

Slow down there little buddy, just because you're faced with a problem doesn't mean there isn't a solution...we just have to put our collective minds together and help you out. As for your picture of the clutch lever, the mark will be on the inside from that position, go to the other side of the machine and look thru to your lever and you should see a mark.

Ok, as for your kick, have you pulled the clutch case cover off and inspected? You might have a broken gear in there or an aluminum fragment wedged between some of the gears. Have you looked thru the manual at the exploded view of everything inside the clutch cover? By chance, is the Blaster in Neutral??? Can you shift it thru the gears with it just sitting there or slightly moving, like rocking on it? If you can remove the clutch cover, disconnect the clutch cable and see if you can spin the basket by hand. Maybe even take the clutch screws and springs out, pulll out all of your plates and see if you can spin it then. Check behind the basket for the gear teeth that mesh with the primary and see if something is wedged in there.
 
As to the clutch adjustment, if all else fails read the manual, I gave you the linc.

As to the kick starter, put it in 2nd or third gear and push it see if it turns over. If not, pull clutch cover and start looking. Could be any number of things in there that would keep it from kicking, other than kicker mechanism
 
Actually, come to think of it, have you bend the shizzle out of your kicker??? Well, not the kicker itself, but maybe the shaft it goes onto? Hey, about that huge nut on the outside, is that binding on the case by chance? Or has that been over torqued?
 
Car quest all season sae 5w-30. I googled it and it states that it is an energy conserving oil, this says to me that it may contain friction modifiers, which is bad for wet clutches.

Check what it says on the bottle.

This is maybee why it slips.

If it contains friction modifiers, you may have to remove the clutch and thouroughly clean the friction plates, to get rid of the modifiers!
 
well after letting it cool for a while i finally got it to turn over with the kick, it took alot of pushing it back and forth in gear and alot of power to the kick but i got it, it starts now, but its kinda hard to kick, and the idle it rough, as for the oil, i drained it and put in castrol full synthetic 10-40 i think it was, i googles yamalube4 and it said that it was 10-40. i havnt gotten to try the clutch though because when i took it out to try and ride on the trails, it died, and wouldnt start. since we didnt have sufficient tools the trip was ruined and when we got home i found the prob. the spark plug died -,- way to ruin a trip hu? so i got it kicking but cant say anything about the oil/clutch just yet.
 
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