Clutch kit input

X3 I've been running The SAME Barnett dd clutch since Colby first built my 3mil back in 2005 or 2006.... since then I've done lots of asphalt drag racing and dirt dragging and just all out whooping the snot outa it...my next clutch will be a Barnett also.
 
You have a link to were they make these claims?

yep i sure do................
YAMAHA BLASTER 240 HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT!!! | eBay

and they also give you the extra fiber to replace the bigger diameter one and wave washer, which they also give you in case you don't wanna put in the extra fiber, and the smooth steels are full sized also

heres the writing on their wall, and i was slightly wrong, they say the kevlars "glazed over too quickly and slipped"...............

YAMAHA BLASTER ALL YEARS:
This kit was specifically designed for a Blaster with a 240 kit or heavily ported stock cylinder. We are very aware of the H.P. the Blaster is capable of making with all the mods that are available for this quad. We took our STD heavy duty clutch kit with the extra friction plate and added springs that are 25-30% stiffer (compared to 10-15% STD kit) to help handle the higher H.P. Blasters. This kit can be used for all around riding and or drag racing.
We have been an ATV Dyno tuning facility since 1999. During this time we have logged over 15,000 Dyno runs on ATV’s. From the beginning, the most common thing we saw from quad to quad was that the clutch would slip under heavy load. This is instantly noticed when a quad is being Dynoed, because the rear of the bike is strapped down to the drums on the Dyno so that the tires do not slip and you can register horsepower.
When the tires are unable to spin freely like they do in the dirt, the entire load of the motor is held solely by the clutch. If it is weak, poor quality or badly worn it will break loose and the motor will rev up and the quad can’t put all the power to the ground.

1. We use cork style friction plates with a metallic base. We have tried all the different friction compounds available and these were the most durable. Kevlar type frictions had good wear properties but glazed over very quickly and started slipping compared to cork.
2. The steel plates are the most important component in the strength and durability of a good quality clutch kit. Our steels are smooth on both sides and full size unlike the half moon shaped stock steel plates, most clutch kits have “dimpled” or “textured” steel plates. THESE STEEL PLATES DO NOT LAST AS LONG AND DO NOT HOLD AS MUCH HORSEPOWER AS SMOOTH PLATES. "Dimples" are concave in shape and reduce surface material and contact area causing the clutch to slip easier. We have done tests where we had quads that had a slipping clutch (the clutch that was in it was new). We took the “dimpled” steels out and replaced them with smooth steels and the clutch stopped slipping.
3. Springs are equally important, we use a spring that is 10%-15% stiffer than stock. This helps with pressure on the friction and steel plates limiting clutch slippage.
4. For the Blaster we have added an extra full size friction plate. This gives you the opprtunity to remove and replace the larger I.D. friction plate that fits over the steel ring and wave washer and use a full size friction. This will give you more clutch contact surface area reducing slippage and capable of handling higher H.P. This kit works well with 240 big bore kits that can more than double the stock horsepower. The purpose of the wave washer is to cushion the clutch engagement, removing it has been a common practice for many years and will not affect the perfromance of the clutch. We still include the standard larger I.D. friction incase you want to run it. This is the only clutch kit on the market that offers you this option.

btw......ken oconnor tells me he is running the tusk cheapo kit on his long rod 240 monster with good results so far,
but i liked the claims this one made for 1/2 the price of the DD
 
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You need to get your hands on a barnett and compare the 2

and you need to get your hands on a 1/2 the price driveline specialties one and compare them

heres what i do know about kevlar, i love it in my bandit 6 ply kevlar tires, i hate it in the kevlar pads i run in my gsxr brake kits, it wears out way quicker than stock ones, but they are only $17, versus $30+ for good non kevlar ones

and seeing as how brakes are very similar in operation to clutches, just in reverse, i'll stick with non kevlar products in moving parts
 
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