clutch facts????

Awk08

Administrator
Staff member
Technician
Jan 30, 2009
24,427
2,295
175
Usa
anyone ever used or heard of these clutches and agree or not with these facts of the added friction plate in #4 ????.................

YAMAHA BLASTER 240 HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT!!!:eBay Motors (item 290372796998 end time Dec-21-09 13:38:05 PST)

1. We use cork style friction plates with a metallic base. We have tried all the different friction compounds available and these were the most durable. Kevlar type frictions had good wear properties but glazed over very quickly and started slipping compared to cork.

2. The steel plates are the most important component in the strength and durability of a good quality clutch kit. Our steels are smooth on both sides, most clutch kits have “dimpled” or “textured” steel plates. THESE STEEL PLATES DO NOT LAST AS LONG AND DO NOT HOLD AS MUCH HORSEPOWER AS SMOOTH PLATES. "Dimples" are concave in shape and reduce surface material and contact area causing the clutch to slip easier. We have done tests where we had quads that had a slipping clutch (the clutch that was in it was new). We took the “dimpled” steels out and replaced them with smooth steels and the clutch stopped slipping.

3. Springs are equally important, we use a spring that is 10%-15% stiffer than stock. This helps with pressure on the friction and steel plates limiting clutch slippage.

4. For the Blaster we have added an extra full size friction plate. This gives you the opprtunity to remove and replace the larger I.D. friction plate that fits over the steel ring and wave washer and use a full size friction. This will give you more clutch contact surface area reducing slippage and capable of handling higher H.P. This kit works well with 240 big bore kits that can more than double the stock horsepower. The purpose of the wave washer is to cushion the clutch engagement, removing it has been a common practice for many years and will not affect the perfromance of the clutch. We still include the standard larger I.D. friction incase you want to run it. This is the only clutch kit on the market that offers you this option
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I saw these when I was shopping for a clutch. The price looks right but I went with the el-cheap-o Tusk kit and they are working fine so far. All your kits are going to come with HD springs. The dimples in the steels are there to hold oil but IMO aren’t really necessary. Hell, we use to bead blast the steels on a buddies GS1150ES drag bike to hold nitrous until we went to a lockup.

I think the kit looks like a good deal with some research behind it. Why don't you be the guinea pig and report back and let us know how it works.
 
I saw these when I was shopping for a clutch. The price looks right but I went with the el-cheap-o Tusk kit and they are working fine so far. All your kits are going to come with HD springs. The dimples in the steels are there to hold oil but IMO aren’t really necessary. Hell, we use to bead blast the steels on a buddies GS1150ES drag bike to hold nitrous until we went to a lockup.

I think the kit looks like a good deal with some research behind it. Why don't you be the guinea pig and report pack and let us know how it works.

haha, noone wants to be first.
 
i think i will be the guinea pig on this one, if lutz has that much experience and says it looks ok, i think i'll go for it, after this retail hoax known as xmas passes, but it'll prolly be spring till i see dirt again to really test it
 
yeah it does sound like they really did they're homework on them, and the price is right, especially over the barnett stuff, but i'll have to do my homework before installing, i'm not sure what plates they're talkin about replacin, i've only ever had my clutch in this bike out once, when my motor got done, and just cleaned and lightly sanded each disc and just put'em back in just as i took them out, so my clutch disc knowledge is limited at best, thats why i started this thread, i think i will get these and holler when the time comes for install help if needed and a report on them
thanx for the help bro's
 
I'm no expert but I can tell you cork is OEM stock on a Blaster and kevlar is OEM stock on a busa.
I agree with them using the smooth steels.
If they aren't roughed up when you get them, rough up the steels on some 60 grit sand paper in a circular motion.
You'll get more bite like that.
Really good steels come this way already though- I believe they call that sintering.
 
yeah, cork = crap... get the barnett or EBC. well I didnt check your mods, I keep forgetting the blasty is only 20hp or so stock.. the cork is probably fine for that..
 
yeah, cork = crap... get the barnett or EBC. well I didnt check your mods, I keep forgetting the blasty is only 20hp or so stock.. the cork is probably fine for that..

maybe you better re-read they're research, they say the cork is better and longer lasting, and the kit is made for even bbk set-ups, and my cylinder is going for flotek porting in the next month or 2, and have a 34mm keihin sittin here already, so the only mods missing here will be the extra 40 cc of a bbk and stroker