carb help on 06 blaster

Boostfed

Member
Nov 27, 2009
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Greene County Pa.
www.saintgamers.com
Hello,

took the blasty out for a spin today.. took her through a lil puddle of water..maybe 2 inches deep and she dropped to idle... then quit. i pushed her home and called a friend of mine who works on yamaha for a living.

he said chances are i got a little water in the carb... told me to take the top off and take the carb itself out and clean it up a little with some carb cleaner.

So i did so.. things were a lil dirty inside but are now spotless..

As im trying to put it back together i noticed a few things.

1) the black cylinder slide will not go ENTIRELY into the carb.. theres like an 1/8th inch of it popping out of the top.. therefore i cant get the top of the carb all the way back on.. the thumb throttle now feels free totally.

its back on the bike for the most part. i just need to know if theres supposed to be any threads on the top of the carb showing.. i have 4-5. when i took it off i dont remember seeing any.

2) i got a new set of stock plugs.. Do we gap these? if so what do we gap them too? ngk eg's i took an es out of it.

i cleaned the filter.. i know it needs re oiled. can i get away with it for a day?
until i get to the auto parts store? or is there a sub i can use?


thats it... any help would be highly appreciated..

Brian
 
Ok for your first question. No it's supposed to go in entirely, sometimes its tricky to get in,first check that its in the correct position, there is a lil tab sticking outside inside the carb, this has to line up with a slide then you have to make sure the needle is entering the main jet, its tricky but you should get it in no time.

As for your other one, what do you mean gap them?? i jsut buy the BR8ES or B8ES spark plug and put it all the way in.

Hope i answered everything.
 
Before you put the boot on that connects the cylinder/reed cage to the carb and the boot that connects the carb to the boot/airbox, you should tilt the carb so you can see through the body and be sure that the needle on the slide is correctly aligned to go through the hole (bottom center of carb body if you look down the neck of the carb from the top). If you didn't take notice of that and tried forcing it on or anything you could bend that long needle or break the tip off. If you are on the shifter side of the Blaster, and are holding the carb up the way it should go back on, with the choke on the left (stock carb), the little pin or tab sticking out that the previous poster was alluding to would be inside the carb throat (looking down from the top of the carb inside of it) on the right. Once you have that, it should thread all the way on just fine...if you are in the same position as I just mentioned above, the left side on the top of the carb throat with the threads should be flat....make sure that the metal piece on the slide assembly is within that. THAT WAS PROBABLY NO HELP AT ALL.

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I think the plugs should be .028-.032....NGKs usually come around .029-.030 in my experience.

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I don't know if you can get away with the filter not being re-oiled...is it stock, aftermarket? Regardless, even though I've never used stock, the filter itself doesn't catch the debris so much as the oil being on the filter itself to trap the debris in the filter. Just my opinion.....people have probably done it but I probably wouldn't.
 
thank you !!!! i really appreciate it. i got it running. i went to the dealer and got some s-2 oil a few plugs and i finally got it back together. it runs 110% BETTER. its popping/backfiring a little and doesnt want to idle on it own. I know its gotta be the gap..

So ill take the plug out tonight and will ride it basically all day tomorrow.

i love it so far and im already looking to upgrade the rear axel and some engine modds.

i thought it had a dg pipe.. its an fmf full.

thanks again and take care
 
that has to do wih the jetting, what color is your spark plug??? gots to make sue your not running lean or it will blow up on ya buddy.