Brake brand help

dogg

Member
May 31, 2020
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Can anyone tell what brand of brake setup this is? Has dual lines. I need to source a cap for
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Come to find out there mcp brakes. Used in kart racing
Yup, you got an MCP 875.
They work best with compression fittings and nylon lines, although you can use stainless if you find the correct diameter.

I was the one with the Trenga thread because I was curious. To summarize my lengthy thread, they DO NOT work for the money I invested into it.

I just sold my Blaster in pieces last week because it was a money-pit and I let my Trenga's go for $50. I just wanted them out of my sight.
 
Yeah very tuff to bleed. I got some good info from the dealer I got the rebuild kits from and was finally able to bleed them. Took the blaster out for some test trials and good news brakes work great. Bad news I now have a shifting problem..... ‍ggrrrr
 
Yeah very tuff to bleed. I got some good info from the dealer I got the rebuild kits from and was finally able to bleed them. Took the blaster out for some test trials and good news brakes work great. Bad news I now have a shifting problem..... ‍ggrrrr
How did you bleed yours? Mine NEVER bled properly
 
The lever on the master cylinder has to be at zero. So I adjusted linkage so that there was absolutely no pressure. Crack bleeder then engage fully then close bleeder. Repeat 3-4 times. After doing both sides then pump several times fast fully engage and just barely crack bleeder and close as fast as you can. If you loose tension on the pedal you did it to slow and sucked in air and have to start all over. Do that to both sides and there bled. Now after that the pads wouldn’t move far enough to make good contact on the rotor so then I had to readjust the linkage and then they worked great. The main problem I noticed is those are designed for go carts. Well go cart pedals have a lot more throw than the brake pedal on a four wheeler. So you have to bleed at one linkage adjustment then once the air is out you have to readjust so the pads travel far enough to make good contact.
 
The lever on the master cylinder has to be at zero. So I adjusted linkage so that there was absolutely no pressure. Crack bleeder then engage fully then close bleeder. Repeat 3-4 times. After doing both sides then pump several times fast fully engage and just barely crack bleeder and close as fast as you can. If you loose tension on the pedal you did it to slow and sucked in air and have to start all over. Do that to both sides and there bled. Now after that the pads wouldn’t move far enough to make good contact on the rotor so then I had to readjust the linkage and then they worked great. The main problem I noticed is those are designed for go carts. Well go cart pedals have a lot more throw than the brake pedal on a four wheeler. So you have to bleed at one linkage adjustment then once the air is out you have to readjust so the pads travel far enough to make good contact.
Unfortunately, I think my Trenga brakes were just caca. I bled every type of way under the sun. I honestly think it was the lines and fittings that were crap.