If that's the case how come all of our blasters came from the factory with the same jetting and they all ran fine.... Honestly we have the same setup in the same place at the same time how different could they possibly be. And this isn't to argue like everyone seems to love to do so much so don't do it
Actually they dont.
but keep in mind the cylinder bore, piston, reeds etc everything is identical from the factory. That is not the case on a used engine.
Yamaha shipped blaster to thier dealerships with several jets, mixing bottle, and extra parts etc.
a 230 comes in the carb from the factory as a BASE setting but they are all shipped from Yamaha with 210, 220 230 jets as well as a jetting chart for local avaerage temps and jet sizes. However most dealerships just run that fattest jet, for the most reliability with no care as far as performance.
this is what the chart looks like
220 main jet, needle in 2nd groove for temps above 32o F
230 main and needle in the 2nd groove for 5o to 41o F
230 main and needle in the 3rd groove for 14o- -22o F
Canadian Models
220 main, 2nd groove for above 0o C
230 main, 2nd groove for -15 to 5o C
230 main, 3rd groove for -10 to -30o C
A lean mixture is powerful but HOT if too lean it will knock and suffer from detonation and pre-ignition.
A rich mixture lacks power, they have a soggy powerdand and have a hard time pulling higher PRMs.
If you want to test your jetting start rich, and work your way down. usually 2 sizes at a time. First find out what your needle setting is and whaqt kind of reeds are in it. Remember aftermarket reeds can make it much richer.
290 sounds rich to me.
On some of my customers bike I have run boyesen reeds, fmf pipe and no lid on a 260-270 mains.