Blaster wont start

[Racer51]

Hey guys I cant get my blaster to start :-[ I just changed out the reeds in my blaster along with adding a 32.5 pilot and a 250 main jet. When I turn the petcock to On or Reserve, the overflow tube at the bottom of the stock carb trickles a small but fast amount of fuel and wont stop unless i turn it off. Along with that the motor churns over but it wont want to start with the choke on or off at this point it dosent even fire up. The only thing i havent done is put a breather hose on the opposite side of the carb on yet and dident think it would be a big deal. I've rebuilt my share of carbs and I cant think off the top of my head whats going on. I mean I did everything right just like every other time I've done it. Other than that I need the fitting that puts tension on the throttle cable. The piece between the threaded part that fits between the box and the piece of metal on the cable. But granted it should fire up and idle. Because before I had it apart it Idled ok but it wouldent rev up at all because of the throttle fitting anyway. Please give me help

 

[jlsparky7]

Ill be doing a troubleshoot video soon for this situation. There are a lot of things to check. What are your mods? Kill switch set to run and key on? Do you have spark? I have to carb rebuild vid in the link in my signature. Sounds like your float is not set correctly or your fuel inlet on the carb is dirty.
Process of elimination....

Spark- If you check for spark with the spark plug outside of the quad and there is spark that doesnt mean there is spark inside the engine with 120lbs of pressure. Replace the plug and check your plug gap. I did a vid of that on my banshee topend vid. Check it out. Check your engine ground. Specifically the one that mounts right next to the coil. If the grounds are good then the problem is your CDI box or Stator. Assuming all of your wiring is intact.

Timing- If you sheered a flywheel key (woodruff key) then you will still have spark it will just not be at the right time. The spark will ignite when the piston isnt in position yet. To check the flywheel key (which is the part that controls timing) you need to pull off the flywheel side cover and pull the flywheel with a flywheel puller (they are 20 bucks online and are reverse threaded)

Compression- For proper compression you also need intact reed valves. They are located in between the carb and the engine behind the rubber boots the carb slides into. Also part of compression is back pressure. If you have any major exhaust leaks that could also cause a no start or hard to start type scenario. Obviously you need to test the compression at the topend which is done with a compression tester.

Fuel- FRESH FRESH FRESH. Always use fresh fuel. Meaning you went to the gas station and bought fresh fuel (even some gas station fuel is not fresh). Not use the "fresh fuel" from the jug thats been sitting in the garage for a year. Make sure your fuel/oil mix ratio is correct. (I use 40:1 and have no problems with amsoil interceptor). Also make sure the carb is clean and float is adjusted properly. Also what size jets are you running? What airbox mods if any? What air filter? Is your pilot air screw set properly?

Air- Clean air filter! You need a clean air filter in order for your machine to function properly. You wouldnt run a mile while breathing through a straw so why force your machine to? Also make sure the inside of the airbox and carbs are clean and that your air filter is mounted properly and seals all dirt out.

 

[Racer51]

The fuel was made up yesterday with 90 oct. and dominator pre mix at 32:1 the air filter is pretty new. I decided to take the lid off hence the compensation of a 260 jet if I need it. I bought that this afternoon bought but not put in. I put in a brand new 250 literaly at like 5:30 today. The carb is not dirty inside or out what so ever.........ummmm compression is normal like 118 ish, was the lowest out of 4 tries tested yesterday. Timming IDK about that I mean the kicker is weaker than a french guy to push down but after like 4 soft kicks every nown and then it gits stiff and thats when I kick hard to try to start it. It just goes thu thu thu thu thump and dosent start. Spark I dont have a tester right now untill monday when I go to work. But what really baffles me is that when the 230 jet was in it do any of the hard starting problems or leak fuel like crazy out the drain hose.

My mods are a FMF fatty with turbinecoreII pipe, stock reeds, stock carb with a 250 insted of a 230 main jet, Uni airfilter, airbox lid off now. BTW how you set the float?

 

[jlsparky7]

The fuel was made up yesterday with 90 oct. and dominator pre mix at 32:1 the air filter is pretty new. I decided to take the lid off hence the compensation of a 260 jet if I need it. I bought that this afternoon bought but not put in. I put in a brand new 250 literaly at like 5:30 today. The carb is not dirty inside or out what so ever.........ummmm compression is normal like 118 ish, was the lowest out of 4 tries tested yesterday. Timming IDK about that I mean the kicker is weaker than a french guy to push down but after like 4 soft kicks every nown and then it gits stiff and thats when I kick hard to try to start it. It just goes thu thu thu thu thump and dosent start. Spark I dont have a tester right now untill monday when I go to work. But what really baffles me is that when the 230 jet was in it do any of the hard starting problems or leak fuel like crazy out the drain hose.

My mods are a FMF fatty with turbinecoreII pipe, stock reeds, stock carb with a 250 insted of a 230 main jet, Uni airfilter, airbox lid off now. BTW how you set the float?

To check the spark just unscrew it, plug it in, then ground it and have someone kick it over. Have you tried a new plug? Whats the gap?

The kickstarter thing sounds weird, are you sure your compression tester is correct at 120ish?

Have you tried some ether/starting fluid?

The carb cleaning vid link in my signature explains how to set the float height.

 

[Racer51]

1st part OK I dident know if that was a good Idea or not, I havent gotten around to it cause I think of where my plug socket is but thats def. on the list.
2nd part yea I know but it started before I took everything apart which is even weirder
3rd part yea I got tons but I'm not fond of useing it.
last part I'm watching it I'm at 2:20 min mark My computer has fast dial up which still sucks. But I just took the carb back off and I'm gonna watch it all and redo what ever it is I did wrong first thing in the morning and do a comp. check again. I was the one kicking not looking at what it said so I'll do that and post my findings about noon 2mro.I got my full book manual to dubble check myself. Cause I already feel stupid enough taking off the back plastic and carb again lol so I'll post my findings later

 

[Racer51]

sparky7 did a comp test cause I couldent sleeap not knowing......It's a resounding 130PSI and higher, highest was just over 135. I guess that 120 was from not enough kicking :-[ This isint a stock bore number is it???? Isint usally in the ballpark of 125 or so.........Heck I'm kinda impresed and chearful now haha.....................................By the way you vid was heplfull But mabey you could skip to where the bowl is off as a start. I'll giv rep after I finish up and not have to worry anymore I:I

 

[Larry's Shee]

Check float level. Might have bumped it when installing jets.

 

[Racer51]

I did what you said larry's shee. I'm stumped because Im 95% shure I dident screw up the float cause All I did was simply take it out and put it gently in my yellow parts bin the whole time nothing was done at all cause I was waiting for my jets????????? The only thing I dont understand is why there is a main jet ring if it dosent stay in place while right side up and makes a ting sound(falling to the bottom is my obvious guess), and wiggles in place while upside down.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Washer and slosh baffel under main jet?

 

[Racer51]

Washer and slosh baffel under main jet?

Yea thats it it's installed right I put the brass ring down flush and threaded the jet in and it goes over top...I got a hold of ken O connor this afternoon and I'm gonna try a new O-ring for the brass needle seat. Because it had patchy discoloration of gray and wasent a glossy "new" black like youd expect. I'd had it out a few times during the carb rebuild but dident think it would be a huge problem cause it was all in one piece and wasent flaking and coming apart. Thanks so much you 2 J sparky and Larry's shee I'll be shure to add rep to you both when I get her running monday or tuesday