Blaster Wont Start

[pwgsx]

Well I just got a 04 Blaster on CL today. IT is in pretty good shape but wont start. I got it for $800 so I dont think I got hosed. The guy said it ran fine, he parked it when his wife had a kid 1 1/2 years ago and now it wont start.
So far I have drained the gas tank, very nasty gas in there, still need to clean it out. I pulled the carb and cleaned all the jets and fuel bowl and floats, had varnished gas gunk inside. I am kinda confused on what is ontop of the carb that has wires going to it, im thinking some kind of control box for the trottle?? Also how do you remove the black line that goes to the carb into the gear box and what is it?? After I get the gas tank clean, I will do a compression test and check for spark and will try and turn it over. I see the on/off switch and a parking brake thing but kinda confused cuz it locks the clutch. Does that have to be locked to start it?? Sorry, I only owned a dirtbike and jet ski's, so this is kinda new.

 

[yb200]

the line to the carb is for the oil injection you have toy put il in the tank out back and put strait gas ion the tank...

the thing on the carb is the tors=throttle override system incase the throttle sticks it kills the bike

take the petcock off and take it apart and clean it as well

good luck

 

[pwgsx]

other than yamalube, What type of oil is best?? I am always a fan of amsoil, but not sure which one. My ski's use the amsoil injector 2 stroke oil that is TCW3 or whatever approved, not sure which rating I need on the Blaster.

Also, where should the oil level be on the clutch basket case??

sry for all the ?'s, hope I get this thing running soon!!

 

[brandoz28]

amsoil is good stuff, i would run it if you can get it easily. there's nothing wrong with the yamalube


there are marks next to the sight glass on the clutch cover for the oil level

 

[myusername]

i removed the oil injection off of mine, but i run nothing but amsoil dominator oil in mine. never had a problem. just try what these guys say, and you'll have it running in no time

 

[pwgsx]

anyone know what 2 stroke oil rating requirement I should look for ?? I cant find it in the manual.

EDIT: I did find this if anyone is wondering the same oil question, Lucky for me I got a gallon of Interceptor and 4 gallons of HP Injector oil already

http://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/Group.aspx?group=3

 

[super noober]

.......there's nothing wrong with the yamalube

except it smells like rotton ass.... lmao hahaha

 

[sheeblast]

ok, you drained the gas and cleaned the carb so far.
now drain the tranny oil and injector oil (from tank in back) put fresh oil in both, make sure it is the right kind.
check your reed to make sure they are not broken or gummed up.
put new plug in.
you already found out what the black line is (oil injection) and the box on the carb (TORS).
the parking brake do not lock up the clutch, it tried to lock the back brakes. it is best to remove this by take off that piece, the cable and getting a block off for the rear caliper and taking off the parking brake on the caliper. very simple to do, make takes 5 minutes to do and worth it. the parking brake, when engaged, will allow the quad to run and idle, but not rev up or take off.

 

[royalt67]

the parking brake, when engaged, will allow the quad to run and idle, but not rev up or take off.

Taking the e-brake off on an 03+ is more of a "looks" item, it actually works fairly well. The critical thing to know about it though is that your bike won't run properly with it engaged. It has a switch (like the throttle switch and carb switch) that goes to the TORS box and kills the ignition above idle. If you ever do a removal of it, you must disconnect the switch from the harness.

It sounds like otherwise you are off to a good start. My money is on the carb, and you've already done that.

BTW, did you notice the pilot jet deep in the tube next to the main jet? Hopefully yes, and cleaned it too.

 

[pwgsx]

update: Cleaned and drained gas tank, it was very dirty on the fuel filters. I pulled the spark plug and ran a compression test. First kick it hits 90, 2 more kicks it tops out at 120. Not sure if that is good or if I should only be going by the first kick # ??? I grounded the plug and kicked it over hoping to see a spark but found nothing. I tried grounding it in a few other places and it wont spark. I do get power to the oil light every kick though. The run button is in the "on" and had the parking brake engaged and off as well. The owner had lost the key but has the 2 wires twisted together and seems to be ok. I tried pouring some pre-mix into the engine and cranking with not even a sputter so I believe there is no spark. Do I need to be holding the front brake down or somthing silly like that?? HELP

 

[yb200]

untwist the black/black-white wires for the key and it will most likely start

 

[sheeblast]

fuel filters??? must have been added by previous owner.
no you dont need to hold the brakes down.
if you are not getting spark, get your harness for any loose grounds. hopefully you dont need a new coil.

 

[pwgsx]

ya the fuel filters inside the tank, I pulled the fuel selector valve out.

The black and black/white wires are twisted and taped/pinched together. He said it ran like that the whole time, wouldnt seperating the wires turn "off" the ignition,together they are completing the circuit.

Looks like I will be checking wires this weekend and making sure there is no corrosion on the ground leads......

 

[yb200]

the bike will NOT have spark with the 2 key switch wires connected unconnect them and it should fire up

 

[yb200]

when the key switch is on its a open circut when it is in the off position it is a closed circut grounding the bike and making no spark

 

[royalt67]

Yep, the key switch is a KILL SWITCH, not a power switch. They need to be untwisted. I don't see how it could have run like that. When my son lost the key to his 04, I just unplugged the switch. High security huh?

 

[pwgsx]

ok ill check that, i hope im looking at the correct wires but im pretty sure I am, black is twisted to b/w wire. Where should the 2 wires be coming from if it was hooked up to the key ignition correctly, from the key switch to where??

Maybe it didnt run like that, who knows what people say to sell something......Are my compression #'s good??

sorry for all the ?'s

 

[royalt67]

One wire (blk/wht) is the kill wire from the ignition cdi. The other wire (blk I think) is a ground wire. Like YB said, turning off the key switch kills the ignition, grounds it.

 

[royalt67]

Comp is ok. 120 isn't fantastic (manual says 125) but you also didn't kick enough. To test compression, hold the throttle open and kick at least ten times, until the needle stops going up. I had a Blaster that ran ok with 65psi, so I doubt that is your prob.

Don't worry, questions are great. It shows you are thinking. We had a guy on they other day who kept asking the same questions over and over again (you know who you are!) and wouldn't listen to anybody's answers. THAT was frustrating.

 

[pwgsx]

Ducked out of work early and did some work on the Blaster. Found and seperated the b/w and blk wire and had spark. Dumped some gas in, kicked it 3 times and it started. Man am I happy now. It seems to idle fine, was a little rough at first but ran it up and down the street for a good amount of time, each pass the engine seemed to get faster and rev more crisp. I am thinking I need to rip into the carb again though, as 1st and 2nd gear has no power really, from 2nd to 3rd if you feather out the throttle it hits hard, if you pin the throttle it bogs down, the last 3 gears really do not do much as its not really getting up to speed.
Any ideas on that??

Thanks you guys for the wiring tips, you nailed it.