Blaster project-What am I getting into??

[Scott Campbell]

I am considering buying a blaster so I can have something to learn to work on and have fun riding, but I would like to know what all I'm getting into. I expect most blasters people are selling have been rode hard so a top end rebuild and some carburetor cleaning will be necessary but should I expect to do much more than that? Also, are there any tips y'all can share about what to inspect on the blasters before buying one?
Thanks for any info and tips!

 

[harley1-5]

2 very important things to do for a blaster are
1.leak test
2.compression test
Also a blaster is like any other quad/bike.You can get a jewel,or turd.Or anything in between

 

[amartin_72]

I would say if you try hard you could score a good deal.

A member had a nice one for 1500 on here that was well taken care of and modded 5k$




I got mine from a facebook posting for $ 650 it had $350 in mods, good compression and passed leak test but I'm sure there will be issues. I had to put reeds, rear tires, and jet it to 300 only rode 2.3 hours on my tach-hourmeter only failue was a small petcock leak.

 

[tbrooks]

Yeah there really is no telling. I got mine for basically nothing and I'm prob gonna have 2000 or more into it for what I had to have to get it back to good running condition but it was really really really bad shape. Sometimes you don't have to do anything but ride it. If it has had any mods check the jetting, most people Don't know to change them.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Take a milk crate or something you can set it on so all suspension is off ground. This is so you can check axle, swing arm, and front suspension. Look at overall condition, how much paint worn off frame. Much rust?

Comp test is good and easy, but no way in heck I'd ever let anyone tear my $hit apart to do a leak test, maybe with cash in my hand.

Stand it up on grab bar and look at bottom of engine. No repairs to cases? Drain plug boogered up?
Look at frame for bends, paint will be flaked off or loose, especially right behind rear lower A-arm mount. Also look at rear sub-frame where grab bar mounts.

 

[Scott Campbell]

Thanks y'all. I am going to look for one without a lot of mods so maybe the work will be easier.

 

[rich1]

Thanks y'all. I am going to look for one without a lot of mods so maybe the work will be easier.

That's a good idea.... since mods that are done by owners can be real good or real bad .

 

[dirtysquared]

I am considering buying a blaster so I can have something to learn to work on and have fun riding, but I would like to know what all I'm getting into. I expect most blasters people are selling have been rode hard so a top end rebuild and some carburetor cleaning will be necessary but should I expect to do much more than that? Also, are there any tips y'all can share about what to inspect on the blasters before buying one?
Thanks for any info and tips!

Blaster's are a good machine to learn on, and ride. Alot of what the guys said on here is things I look for when I pick one up. The best thing to do after you do buy one is just go over everything thoroughly, and ask questions if you need help.

Once you find one, go over everything, make a list of what's wrong, what needs attention, and the things you want to do to it. Start crossing things off that list as time and money allow and you'll have yourself a nice Machine.

Good luck!

 

[stacypfingsten]

I mated to pick up 2 and a trailer for 1700. So there are deals out there. Good luck in your search.

 

[Scott Campbell]

So I found a guy selling a 2001 blaster for $300. He said the kick start is stuck (from what I've read will have to re-do the top end) and it is leaking oil. Do y'all think it would be worth getting?

 

[Scott Campbell]

Here is a photo of it

 

[Larry's Shee]

Might be, depends on condition. These are money pits on a good day, the mod bug is everywhere. Hiding, waiting, ready to pounce when you least expect it.
See my other post for inspection suggestions.
Owner might pull pipe or head for a peak. Piston, bore, gaskets will be about $200.
Or it could simple as a kicker or clutch basket problem.

$300 is the "range" I'm looking for for a "flipper" Fix what's needed, sell little lower than going price CL to move it. Make a few bux, move on to the next.

The BUG has grabed me by the ballz.
What started as a broken case from balancer gear/bearing failure is getting out of control. Rod is getting loose, so might as well get new crank while it's apart. A 3mil isn't that much more. Top end has relatively low hours so it will be basically a new motor. So I might as well make it look new. Going to blast the cases and coat with either clear laquer or enamel, jug/head will get special black paint.

 

[Larry's Shee]

If it's a CL ad, post a link. Be way easier t

 

[79 bronco]

Welcome!

 

[bummer981]

If it is leaking oil the cases may be damaged from the top end failure. So the simple top end job may involve changing or repairing cases and all new bottom end bearings.

Still may be a good deal, if you don't mind the additional work. Inspect the cases when you look at it.

 

[tbrooks]

That one looks like somebody did quite a bit of work on it, could be good or bad. No matter what if its leaking oil you need to pull the top end and split the cases. Once you've done that you may as well get all new bearings and seals before you put it back together, and prob a new crank or rebuild yours. With a top end rebuild, if you have a shop do all this for you, you'll prob have a close to a grand in it before your riding, counting the original $300. That's not bad since you'll know exactly what you got!

 

[Quadman1]

Hell you could part that out and double your money. For $300 I would go look at it and see. Could be a simple fix or engine could be blown.

 

[stacypfingsten]

Engine might be crap, but it's sure is pretty. But like tbrooks said you could have it repaired and you would still be ahead. It's worth it sure.