blaster keeps dying?

[Tylerbb25331]

just did a complete rebuild top and bottom end, all new seals and gaskets no air leaks good reeds and just everything is good and basically brand new, it starts up perfectly, but heres the deal, it wont idle, ill run down the hill on it just fine turn around come back up fast and strong but then it starts to bog so i pull the choke out and it catches back up to its self but then starts to bog down after about 2 minutes so i take choke off and it starts dying again and then it doesnt matter what i do it just dies but it will start right back up and do itall again :-/

im gonna be out side all day trying to figure it out so i guess if anyone from this blaster community can help me out in any way txt me at 404 319 0115 and i know its iffy to put my nu,ber up but im trusting my blaster friends

 

[Wifesblaster]

Well you need to list your mods and jetting. Sounds like you are lean if you pull the choke and it gets better. Did you perform heat cycles and retorque the head?

 

[Tylerbb25331]

full fmf pipe bored .50 over, just put a a 300 jet in it i am running with the air box lid, and thats my problem i just got it back together yesterday and i cant keep it running long enough to do a heat cycle the scenarioijust told you about above its like a matter of 2 minutes

 

[Wifesblaster]

Is the carb clean? 32.5 pilot? Air screw 1.5 turns out? 300 main with the lid on is to rich IMO. Take the lid off a 300 will be safe for that.

 

[Tylerbb25331]

yes and yes, i will have to go check the air/fuel screw and i will take the lid of then ill try to start it and make a video and post it up, and i dont have a kick start right now so i have to start it go down my drive way and back and then i can put it in neutral

 

[Tylerbb25331]

blaster issues - YouTube

 

[Tylerbb25331]

ok now its not revving all the way up i can get it started but it dies if i dont give it full throttle

 

[warmeck]

Is the carb clean? 32.5 pilot? Air screw 1.5 turns out? 300 main with the lid on is to rich IMO. Take the lid off a 300 will be safe for that.

listen to wifeblaster your blaster is telling you its running to rich that means you need to ***PERFORM A PLUG CHOP*** to see what is the perfect jetting range with your mods. and go get some more jets this looks like more of a carb problem,your not getting enough gas through the carb make sure your needle is on the little metal clip inside the carb!

 

[Blaaster]

full fmf pipe bored .50 over, just put a a 300 jet in it i am running with the air box lid, and thats my problem i just got it back together yesterday and i cant keep it running long enough to do a heat cycle the scenarioijust told you about above its like a matter of 2 minutes

Is the carb clean? 32.5 pilot? Air screw 1.5 turns out? 300 main with the lid on is to rich IMO. Take the lid off a 300 will be safe for that.

listen to wifeblaster your blaster is telling you its running to rich that means you need to ***PERFORM A PLUG CHOP*** to see what is the perfect jetting range with your mods. and go get some more jets this looks like more of a carb problem,your not getting enough gas through the carb make sure your needle is on the little metal clip inside the carb!

Slow down guys, this fella has not even started heat cycling yet, and you are talking main jets and plug chops.

The main jet has no affect at all on idle.

Tyler, you should not be riding until you have done at least 3 heat cycles.

Make sure the float level is correct and the carby is not flooding.

At idle and starting you should not need to give it any throttle.

Do you have a constant dribble of gas when you crack open the drain screw on the float bowl?

You said it was leak free, is that an assumption or did you leak test it.

By the way it sounds you either need to loosen the drive chain or replace chain and sprockets.

 

[Larry's Shee]

I txted him and he says had trash in fuel line, sounds like he needs to start with cleaning EVERYTHING in the fuel system. Tank, petcock, carb. Might as well set float level while your at it. Make sure you can blow air through all passages in carb.

 

[Tylerbb25331]

ok that first video was kinda mis leading yea it was trash but thats not my problem, i just took another video of whats going on i was able to get one heat cycle in this time but i had to keep it idling felt like it took for ever -_- anyways i made another video of my actual problem and ill upload in a min

 

[Tylerbb25331]

blaster update still has issue though - YouTube

 

[Awk08]

i didn't watch the video.
see if you missed/skipped any of these steps ?
there is a method that works, in this exact order....

leakdown test:
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/

compression test: must be over like 110 psi,
120-130 is ideal for a fresh stock motor,
150-165 for a modified head.

properly clean carburetor:
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/

air filter clean or new, and oiled properly.
good fresh fuel mixed @ 32:1 with a good 2 stroke oil for air cooled mx engines.
good fuel flow to the carb, no fuel filter needed.
good reeds.
new b8es spark plug.

set float level:
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/

adjust airscrew/pilot jet:
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/

heat cycles:
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/blaster-engine-break-44174/

retorque head and base nuts.

stock carb =
stock 32.5 pilot
airscrew under 2.5 turns out, adjusted to highest idle as decribed in the above link
stock needle on the middle clip.

plug chop for main jet:
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/