Blaster Engine or electrical problem?

[Stephen2015]

I have a 2003 Blaster 200, I had just recently purchased it in a set of 2. One modified and one that's stock except for a top end rebuild (Supposedly). My question is about the stock one. A buddy and me took the bikes out, it was quite wet and a bit muddy, after awhile we took a break from riding, the bikes sat for about 20 minutes. When returning to the stock blaster, it starts up and rides in first and second if you're just cruising. However when I hold the throttle wide open it just stays at about cruising speed. I have no idea what this could be, I checked the parking break. and I removed and cleaned the air filter. I was considering removing the carbs and cleaning/inspecting. The gas is fresh 32:1. The shop has said the top end was just rebuilt.

TLDR: Bike will idle and cruise however when opened to full throttle it just stays at a constant cruising speed. Where do I start the troubleshooting and what could it be?

 

[Blaaster]

Purchase a leak tester and test the engine for air leaks!

 

[Stephen2015]

Purchase a leak tester and test the engine for air leaks!

Is there nothing else besides an air leak that could cause this? I'll order a leak tester but what can I look for in the meantime.

 

[bummer981]

Could be carb related, may pay to clean the carb and check the float setting.

 

[Stephen2015]

Could be carb related, may pay to clean the carb and check the float setting.

I just finished cleaning the carb, the float looked okay, I'm changing the plug now as soon as I find the right gap setting. I'll report back.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Almost sounds like a TORS problem. If it is an 03, you'll have to search how to delete.
The float has to be set to a specific hgt, don't recall at the moment.
New plug couldn't hurt if old looks bad, carboned up.

Also check that the air filter isn't wet.

 

[Stephen2015]

Almost sounds like a TORS problem. If it is an 03, you'll have to search how to delete.
The float has to be set to a specific hgt, don't recall at the moment.
New plug couldn't hurt if old looks bad, carboned up.

Also check that the air filter isn't wet.

Changed the plug, cleaned the carbs cleaned and checked filter. Bike is running through all gears with power again. Still seems a bit weak compared to the modded blaster but I never ride this one so it may be normal. I'll upload a pic of the plug I changed it was a pile of goo when I cleaned it the gap was 0. Also what is the t.o.r.s? An i can delete it? I'm new to blasters

 

[Larry's Shee]

Throttle override safety system. Prone to act up cause weird syptoms. Had switch in throttle get wet and wouldn't run over idle , light rain, had to stop and dry it out several times.
If it's bone stock it will feel weak compared to one with any mods.

I think this is the thread everyone links for 03+ tors delete : http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/
You don't have to do the cab cap and cable, but it makes working on carb easier.
Also check into parking brake rev limiter bypass.

 

[Larry's Shee]

https://www.google.com/search?q=03+...sAWw4oHYBw&ved=0CCsQrQIoBDAA&biw=1440&bih=766

 

[Stephen2015]

https://www.google.com/search?q=03+...sAWw4oHYBw&ved=0CCsQrQIoBDAA&biw=1440&bih=766

Thanks a ton for all the info all, it seems I have a few things to get rid of. I'm new to blasters, but yeah the modded blaster has....
Top End rebuild
FMF fatty pipe and silencer
Boysen reeds
Wiseco Piston
Twin air filter
Full port and polish on engine
Head shaved to raise compression.

The stock has, an alleged top end rebuild. I do know however if you rebuild the top end of the engine, you should change the plug, I could tell that plug has been in the bike for years. So I'm calling a BS marketing claim to get me to buy it lol. I'll probably mail it off to KOR for a top and bottom rebuild with bore port and polish this winter. Also on the stock blaster, there seems to be a grinding noise, sounds maybe like a case bearing or something. I can tell it's coming from the lower part of the engine close to where the oil pump is. Frustrating lol

 

[Larry's Shee]

well, if you haven't changed the oil yet, now is the time. Obviously it's making a noise the other isn't? If an oil change doesn't help, or if there is lots of metalic flakes in oil, might pay to pull the clutch cover. Just look for anything unusual, wear marks. Wiggle the gear on counter balancer gear to check that bearing.

 

[Stephen2015]

I shouldn't have said grinding, more like a friction noise, either way though you're right. The clutch cover needs to come off. Do you think it's possible the previous owner did a top end job and didn't bore up? Like the rings may be scraping a worn out cylinder? I guess I could pull the head and look at that lol. I'll check into what you mentioned also.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Pull the exhaust first and have a peak. Cost no gaskets to do it.

 

[Stephen2015]

Pull the exhaust first and have a peak. Cost no gaskets to do it.

Fantastic idea. I would have never thought of that.