Blaster Crank not crankin

scotj77

Member
Feb 11, 2010
5,546
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Orlando, fl
I bought my Blaster about two years ago and it has been down about a year of that time. When i first bought it it ran great! Had some great mods. Toomey b1 pipe and silencer. dura blue axle boysen power reeds carb was jetted to match the exaust. twin air filter air box drilled and cover removed. After about fourty hours of ride time i finally fried the so called weisco piston which turned out to be a cheap vertex cast piston. I guess I was just a moron when I got it and didn't realize the proper trans oil level. I had just been filling it until I could see it half way in the sight glass. I thought I had a major oil leak but didn't know the oil wasn't actually full to begin with. I rebuilt the top end and fried another piston the first trip out after break in. I thought I might have just had an air leak or something being my first time rebuilding a motor so I tried again. I am not sloppy or do I skip any steps when rebuilding. I replace all gaskets and torque everything to specks. Had the jug bored both times too. This time it happened again but it was different. One of the bushings on the rod bottom end came apart and demolished my brand new piston and jug and head. Six months and a grand later I had all the tools and parts to replace the crank, piston, gaskets, seals, bearings, head, jug, and whatever else I could find that was wrong. The rebuild went smoothly and everything inside looked good. Broke it in and planned a trip to the ocala national forest with my riding buddy. It didn't go so well. first I had an air leak. Melted the side of the piston a bit but I broke it down in the parking lot and cleaned up the piston and jug got the rings freed up, fixed the air leak and went back out. It ran great, for about 45 minutes. I was riding pretty hard for a while and hit puddle pretty hard that came up too fast to avoid. Of course I got some water in the intake and choked out. It finally started after about fifty kicks. Ran fine for a while the I started to hear a grinding growling noise so I shut it down and had my buddy tow me back. Yesterday I finally got up the nerve to pull the top end off. To my dismay the piston was fine! but the big end bearing on the rod was dry and stiff. Not a good situation for anything! I:I Did the water wash off the oil... was I overheating... I just don't know what the problem is. I love the two stroke and I don't want to leave it but I can't afford a couple hundred bucks minimum every time I ride it hard. How hard is too hard? I run 40/1 yamalube 2R with 93 octane I have a slightly shaved head with two base gaskets.
 
The melting of the piston sounds like a heat issue.

You could of suycked some water into the motor also.

I would run it at 32:1 instead of 40:1.
 
the plug looked perfect. It was a medium tan color. Like I said the piston didn't seem to be the issue after I fixed the air leak. The hose clamp on the intake was worn out. would water in the crank case steam clean the oil off of the rod enough to dry it out completely? I was running 32/1 when it went out. I normally ran 40/1 because the guy i bought it from was running that mix. the rod seems to have a very small amount of up and down play on the big end bearing. Is it done?
 
the plug looked perfect. It was a medium tan color. Like I said the piston didn't seem to be the issue after I fixed the air leak. The hose clamp on the intake was worn out. would water in the crank case steam clean the oil off of the rod enough to dry it out completely? I was running 32/1 when it went out. I normally ran 40/1 because the guy i bought it from was running that mix. the rod seems to have a very small amount of up and down play on the big end bearing. Is it done?

Water in the crank case is never any good. If there is alot of up and down play on the big end then I would rebuild the crank. But a small amount is ok. Does the crank spin freely with no catch or resistance?

And replace the carb clamps.
 
i did replace the clamps on the spot that day. The cranks seems to spin freely now that i put some oil on it maybe a little more stiff that usual. I still think I am going to split the cases and check every thing thoroughly before i start riding it again. I have so much fun on this quad i don't want to go four stroke.
 
It wouldnt matter if you where riding a 2 or 4 stroke sh*t breaks bro. Two strokes sre cheaper and easier too fix. I would split them and just check everything out. If you sucked water in I would change the crank bearing.
 
check out my sunk and hydro locked kdx thread just a sample of what water can do in an engine replaced the main bearings and did the top end the big end rod was not bad just alot of cleaning...note I did not attemp to start the engine, I towed back to camp and used my xt350 the next 2 days the pics are 3 days after the deep water incident. also note the mud in the cases looks like corn flakes and check out page three too
Sunk and Hydro-lock - Page 2 - Dirt Rider . Net, Dirt Bikes - Motocross - Off-Road - Supercross
 
no signs of water in the case but i haven't split them yet. I didn't take it swimming just a big splash. I have already planned a full bearing and seal replacement I just wanted to know if a small amount of water could have cleaned all the oil off the rod like that. Seems the piston would have taken the brunt of it but it looked just like it did when I pulled it the first time. So yamalube sucks that bad? I always seemed to be fine with the S type but have had nothing but problems with the type R. I just want to be able to run the sh*t out of this thing for about 45 minutes to an hour without a meltdown. I am about a buck 90. Can the blaster handle my weight for a long hard ride.
 
no signs of water in the case but i haven't split them yet. I didn't take it swimming just a big splash. I have already planned a full bearing and seal replacement I just wanted to know if a small amount of water could have cleaned all the oil off the rod like that. Seems the piston would have taken the brunt of it but it looked just like it did when I pulled it the first time. So yamalube sucks that bad? I always seemed to be fine with the S type but have had nothing but problems with the type R. I just want to be able to run the sh*t out of this thing for about 45 minutes to an hour without a meltdown. I am about a buck 90. Can the blaster handle my weight for a long hard ride.

Yamaha sucks cause it just does...there is no reason...it just sucks...yamaha oil is prolly meant to be mixed at 20:1 just like my Honda GN2 oil....which is premix and injector oil....your weight really isn't hurting the blaster...i weigh about 170 and it pulls just fine!
 
thakx for the pix sr5bidder but i didn't quite swim laps at the pool with mine... lol but I did start it so I guess that still makes me the king of the dumb ass hill.
 
I didn't think I weighed too much for it because when she is runnin good I'm hanging on for dear life. "the best way to ride if you ask me" I have no problem spending the extra money and I appreciate the advice. I should have come here a long time ago.
 
thakx for the pix sr5bidder but i didn't quite swim laps at the pool with mine... lol but I did start it so I guess that still makes me the king of the dumb ass hill.


yeah I came around a corner and had a choice of a maze of ruts or puddle....puddle was a smal pond 3ft deep with 12 inches of suck mud at the bottom 25 minutes to pull it out while getting exhuasted the bike fell in my lap and the mud/water came down the pipe and into the engine.

I want to run a lid on the blaster and some PO drilled about 15 3/8" holes in it. anyone ever snorkle the blaster??? I would like to try some thing like that if any one has links or pics?
 
thakx for the pix sr5bidder but i didn't quite swim laps at the pool with mine... lol but I did start it so I guess that still makes me the king of the dumb ass hill.

it is important to check and clean the bladder at the bottom of the airbox, it lets water out and if clogged the water will happily go the filter/ engine route