Anyone ever seen this happed?

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Budget_Blaster

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Dec 25, 2009
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Went out to ride the shee and seen a couple drops of coolant on the floor.Started looking and found it to be #4 stud leaking coolant up the threads nothing crazy but its a brand new build so any leaks are unacceptable.

Put a little permatex teflon sealer on the stud and retorqued it and it quit.Well being as paranoid as i am i decided that a 26$ oem gasket was cheaper and easier than an engine rebuild (DUH RIGHT) and for the life of me i cant see why it was leaking!

I sent the jugs off to ken who fixed the sleeves,pinned the sleeves,and resurfaced the jugs so i know theyre good but i didnt resurface the head.There was a little dip i guess u could call it in that area of the stud.So i took 220,320,400 grit sand paper on a big huge thick peice of glass and resurfaced the head by hand and got the head almost flawless but am still paranoid since ive never did this should i go ahead and have the head shaved for reassurance and the little bump in compression or is the clymer manuals way of lapping the head sufficient?

From what i can tell it appears i caugt it in time and wasnt burning it in the combustion chambers because the pistons had the usual carbon build up.

What you guys think?I ordered a brand new oem gasket instead of the K&S that was on it.
 
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oem gasket and lapping the head should have it all sealed up, keep a close eye on it
 
Good advice above, but I gotta add some insight. As someone who has worked in different areas of assembly, parts that require sealing and high compression/pressure gaskets, I just want to give some food for thought. Sanding with those grits of sand paper will take material away, but may leave traces or tracks that fluid can and will find it's way down. I would've gone to an even finer grit, just to really smooth out the head...but not glass finish. Even if you have a good compression ratio gasket in there, fluids always tend to find the path of least resistance. You are most likely sitting on a ticking time bomb. Here is the good news though, you have it bandaged and sealed so you can get some fun out of it. In the mean time, figure the cost of getting the head machined and start saving the loot. Also, after each ride when the machine is dry (not run thru the mud or water), spray some baby powder on the seam/gasket and look for it to turn wet. That will be your best inspection. At the first sign of it clumping/turning wet, get it fixed.
 
Budget_Blaster said:
Went out to ride the shee and seen a couple drops of coolant on the floor.Started looking and found it to be #4 stud leaking coolant up the threads nothing crazy but its a brand new build so any leaks are unacceptable.

Put a little permatex teflon sealer on the stud and retorqued it and it quit.Well being as paranoid as i am i decided that a 26$ oem gasket was cheaper and easier than an engine rebuild (DUH RIGHT) and for the life of me i cant see why it was leaking!

I sent the jugs off to ken who fixed the sleeves,pinned the sleeves,and resurfaced the jugs so i know theyre good but i didnt resurface the head.There was a little dip i guess u could call it in that area of the stud.So i took 220,320,400 grit sand paper on a big huge thick peice of glass and resurfaced the head by hand and got the head almost flawless but am still paranoid since ive never did this should i go ahead and have the head shaved for reassurance and the little bump in compression or is the clymer manuals way of lapping the head sufficient?

From what i can tell it appears i caugt it in time and wasnt burning it in the combustion chambers because the pistons had the usual carbon build up.

What you guys think?I ordered a brand new oem gasket instead of the K&S that was on it.
Click to expand...

Have some rep for taking great care of that engine! It's great to see guys like you noticing the small details and wanting to fix it right, not just the easy way. Good inspiring stuff I:I
 
Budget_Blaster said:
Went out to ride the shee and seen a couple drops of coolant on the floor.Started looking and found it to be #4 stud leaking coolant up the threads nothing crazy but its a brand new build so any leaks are unacceptable.

Put a little permatex teflon sealer on the stud and retorqued it and it quit.Well being as paranoid as i am i decided that a 26$ oem gasket was cheaper and easier than an engine rebuild (DUH RIGHT) and for the life of me i cant see why it was leaking!

I sent the jugs off to ken who fixed the sleeves,pinned the sleeves,and resurfaced the jugs so i know theyre good but i didnt resurface the head.There was a little dip i guess u could call it in that area of the stud.So i took 220,320,400 grit sand paper on a big huge thick peice of glass and resurfaced the head by hand and got the head almost flawless but am still paranoid since ive never did this should i go ahead and have the head shaved for reassurance and the little bump in compression or is the clymer manuals way of lapping the head sufficient?

From what i can tell it appears i caugt it in time and wasnt burning it in the combustion chambers because the pistons had the usual carbon build up.

What you guys think?I ordered a brand new oem gasket instead of the K&S that was on it.
Click to expand...

You have all bad luck as I do!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok just got back from a buddys machine shop and heres whats up.


I was up until about 5am this morning lapping the head and it looks new!

Took it into a buddys shop because for some reason i couldnt find my straight edge so i borrowed his and had him take a gander at the work i did on it.I couldnt fit a 2 thousandths feeler gauge under the straight edge anywhere!And when phil looked at it he said it looked as thought it had been milled so im pretty happy with the outcome and im sure between kens work on the jugs and my work on the head now that im straight and as true as it will get.

As for modding the head i was going to go ahead and mill .020 off it while i was there and even rigged up the head and decided last minute not to do it.I plan to just buy an aftermarket head soon and for the time ill just polish the chambers with a dremel like i did on my kdx.I have the kdx mirror finished when i was done idk if its worth alot or anything power wise but it wasnt sh*t to do so why not.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
EZRider76 said:
Good advice above, but I gotta add some insight. As someone who has worked in different areas of assembly, parts that require sealing and high compression/pressure gaskets, I just want to give some food for thought. Sanding with those grits of sand paper will take material away, but may leave traces or tracks that fluid can and will find it's way down. I would've gone to an even finer grit, just to really smooth out the head...but not glass finish. Even if you have a good compression ratio gasket in there, fluids always tend to find the path of least resistance. You are most likely sitting on a ticking time bomb. Here is the good news though, you have it bandaged and sealed so you can get some fun out of it. In the mean time, figure the cost of getting the head machined and start saving the loot. Also, after each ride when the machine is dry (not run thru the mud or water), spray some baby powder on the seam/gasket and look for it to turn wet. That will be your best inspection. At the first sign of it clumping/turning wet, get it fixed.
Click to expand...

What???

Baby powder???lmfao

No i tore it down lapped the head and checked it about an hour ago and even had a buddy who runs a machine shop give it a once over and its good to go.

The manual recommends 400-600 grit so i dont see why progressing up from 220-400 would be an issue?Yea it took a small amount of material off but not enough to do any damage and progressing up took the scratches out of it.

Ill post up pics later of what i did for reference to anyone else.

But thanks bro i appreciate it i just dont follow the baby powder but it reminds of the movie how high "WHERES MY BITCHES" lmfao
 
yamaha28 said:
Have some rep for taking great care of that engine! It's great to see guys like you noticing the small details and wanting to fix it right, not just the easy way. Good inspiring stuff I:I
Click to expand...

Thanks bro!!!

Im beyond OCD about the details of my toys LOL I:I

And the amount of money i have in this banshee is kinda retarded lol they are worse than watercraft!Trust me i got a suped up SL750 boats and sh*t are money pits but the banshee is getting to be worse.If it aint something stupid its something i want lol and have to have so i buy it.
 
Larry's Shee said:
The thought behind the baby powder is that it will stick to the slightest amount of water and would be slightly darker in color.
Click to expand...

I see...Kind of a ghetto version of magnafluxing?

Anyways yea as soon as the gasket gets here ill hit it with 4-5 coats of copper gasket adhesive and get her all bolted up.

I plan to pressure test the coolant system prior to fire up.Im also going to get some washers and acorn style nuts.

For those of you with some minor imperfections on your head this method of glass and sand paper really works!

I used some soapy water instead of wd40.To me the dish soap and water let it cut quicker than the wd40.I had every intention of borrowing a buddys shop for a few today and figured id give it a try after watching ken oconnors you tube vid on it and it works!

Thanks ken!!!Still waiting for the 3rd banshee vid even though im too checken sh*t to try it and would rather pay you to do it lol
 
I'll try the soap and water next time I do a head or case. Tried wd and it caused the tape holding the paper to go soft.

You could spend $20 at Autozone and get a UV coolant test kit.
 
Larry's Shee said:
I'll try the soap and water next time I do a head or case. Tried wd and it caused the tape holding the paper to go soft.

You could spend $20 at Autozone and get a UV coolant test kit.
Click to expand...

Nah bro i got a coolant pressure tester with an assortment of adapters ill check it with prior to ever filling it this time.

As for the resurfacing i used a thick peice of glass and rubber cemented the paper to the glass to hold it.Afterwards a shop rag wiped the cement right off the glass.I had tried it without the cement and the paper wanted to slide.

I started with 400 and it was taking forever so i started it again at 220 and progressed to 400 and it looks brand new when i get home ill post pics of it.
 
Baby Powder, Flour, Chalk Powder...any powder will stick to even the slightest amount of moisture. Laugh all you want and think it's "ghetto", doesn't matter, it works, it's cheap and it takes 2 seconds...kinda like making sure your fingers are out of the way when someone else is swinging the hammer. If you have any kind of leak, you'll be happy you read my post and tried my idea. If you don't and it over heats and blows, well, can't say you didn't have any idea how to check for it. As for where you started and stopped with the grit, it's all personal preference. I know what I would and have done on much more important and much more expensive equipment, it's all about experience and wisdom. Too each their own, hope it all works out for ya and you don't have any more problems.
 
Budget_Blaster said:
I used some soapy water instead of wd40.To me the dish soap and water let it cut quicker than the wd40.
Click to expand...

Methylated spirit was the recommended lubricant when I learnt to work with aluminium, and I always use it today, dishwashing liquid and water is fine, WD40 is way too greasy.
 
EZRider76 said:
Baby Powder, Flour, Chalk Powder...any powder will stick to even the slightest amount of moisture. Laugh all you want and think it's "ghetto", doesn't matter, it works, it's cheap and it takes 2 seconds...kinda like making sure your fingers are out of the way when someone else is swinging the hammer. If you have any kind of leak, you'll be happy you read my post and tried my idea. If you don't and it over heats and blows, well, can't say you didn't have any idea how to check for it. As for where you started and stopped with the grit, it's all personal preference. I know what I would and have done on much more important and much more expensive equipment, it's all about experience and wisdom. Too each their own, hope it all works out for ya and you don't have any more problems.
Click to expand...

LOL i didnt mean anything disrespectful but for lack of better description its basically what i said a ghetto magnafluxing is it not?

To be honest if i had the funds to buy the cool head now i would and not even dick with the stock one.But i dont so i went ahead and made this the best i can to my abilities and its turned out descent for never trying that method before.

Yea i hope its good to go from here out to bro thanks for the tips and advice and i never said i wouldnt use it or didnt appreciate it i was just confused initially as to what you meant.
 
Blaaster said:
Methylated spirit was the recommended lubricant when I learnt to work with aluminium, and I always use it today, dishwashing liquid and water is fine, WD40 is way too greasy.
Click to expand...

I have no idea what that is.lol

But yea the wd40 felt like it lubed it too well and didnt really allow me to get the results i thought i should have had.

As soon as i switched to 220 and dish soap and water it went quick so i just stayed with it until the 400.

Here it is after the resurfacing and a thorough wiping down with acetone.Next going to break out the dremel and polish the chambers.
PART_1336205478756.jpg
 
It evaporates an leaves no residue! I use it at work alot, for cleaning/disinfecting plastic pipe/valves.


BTW-nice lapping job!
 
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