Another new guy

Travass

New Member
May 27, 2014
8
0
1
Chesapeake VA
Hey fellas... name's Travis... I picked up an 02 in a trade last Saturday. Let me tell you a little about the bike and I have a few questions I hope you guys can help answer...

This guy gave up on the project... He had the top end reworked (bored and new piston) and was in the process of mocking everything up and decided he was over it. Damn thing was missing 1/2 the bolts!!! So I have gone through and replaced all the missing hardware. He pulled the oil tank and capped the lines to oil pump and carb (I have ordered a block off plate), it has a fmf exhaust, stock carb (going to check the reeds & rebuild the carb), it has a k&n filter, but no airbox lid or flange to hold the air filter on! Moron had the clutch cable retainer on upside down (flipped that over and surprise the clutch doesn't bind against the carb), he bought pretty new hardware for the motor, then managed to shear off the crankshaft key and strip some of the end threads on the crank. I see there is a spacer under the flywheel nut... Think I could get away with not using the spacer and just using the nut? He pulled the TORS (clipped the harness). It did come with some v treads on bead lock wheels! I'll most likely buy a better all around set of tires for the rear. Tail light is gone and the head light was busted out. Anyone ever install one of those CREE LED lights? I had some on my jeep and loved them. I pulled the motor and cleaned up the frame... plastics had some sh*tty flat black rattle can job. I may sand and slap a quick coat of paint on the plastics for the time being. No chain, so I ordered one of those too... grips were trashed and handle bars bent.

I really enjoy turning wrenches, so this was right up my alley. I don't know too much about these bikes but it doesn't seem like they are too difficult. I am thinking about fabbing up a grab handle and front bumper. I'll post some pictures up as I make progress... Thanks for any help or info you guy can provide.

:beer:
 
Welcome to the forum Travis. When replacing the chain you should change out the sprockets as well. Worn sprockets will destroy your new chain. Lets see some pictures of your progress.
 
Welcome !!

Good project you have going. Either get a Clymers manual or find the download on here. As to the flywheel washer, must be a good reason they use it :rolleyes:, seeing that the crank is already jacked, just using a thin washer might be ok. Might as well use some locktite when you do it.
 
Yeah, I downloaded the manual and been scanning through it... only thing I can think is that the spacer is a thrust washer to help with preload on the flywheel. I will try going with a thinner washer and some locktite... torque the nut to spec and see what happens. I did go ahead and order a new rear sprocket too... I looked at it and the teeth were pretty sharp and some even chipped... so no use in trashing a new chain.

I figure while I have flywheel off I will go ahead and advance the timing a bit. I also had to order the crankcase oil filler plug... the previous owner had some tin foil wadded up as an oil plug. I am having a hard time with understanding some of the thought process this guy had. There were things that were done right, but a majority is just hack. Ahwell.

What are the typical mounting points for the front bumper? I imagine using the upper A-Arm mounts isnt a good idea, it could bend the mounts. I saw the mounting flange in the center, what about the bottom? Pick up the 2 lower A-Arm bolts? I have been kicking around some ideas for a front bumper and wanted to know the best way to mount one.

Here are some pictures...
 

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A big no to Loctite on the flywheel threads, it will act as a lubricant and may allow too much tension to be applied which may tear off the remaining threads.

It is not the nut that stops the flywheel spinning but the pressure applied to the tapers.
 
The bottom mounts for the bumper are the 2 holes bottom/front on the frame, just below the lower a-arm bolts, you can almost see them in that pic from the front
 
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Hey if you don't mind telling us what did you have to give for that project?

I traded an old SKS rifle for it. So, roughly $300 worth of rifle.

I managed to chase the crank threads with a die and got the flywheel back on and the nut torqued to spec. Installed the oil blockoff and got the engine back in the frame. She fires on the first kick! Idle adjusted and I did notice that it is running a 240 main jet. Pretty sure with the full FMF and the K&N with no lid, the main jet will need to be bumped up.

One thing I did not check like a knucklehead was the clutch though (stupid because I was right there when installing the oil blockoff!). The clutch will not disengage. I have seen where guys have to adjust the rod or inspect the ball inbetween. Which would mean draining the oil back out, removing the cover and adjusting the rod...yay. One thing I do have a question on (excuse my newbieness)... I understand you want the pointer on the clutch arm to match up with the line on the case... are they supposed to line up without any tension on the arm? Or it that supposed to the "end" point of the arms travel when you squeeve the lever?
 
I traded an old SKS rifle for it. So, roughly $300 worth of rifle.

I managed to chase the crank threads with a die and got the flywheel back on and the nut torqued to spec. Installed the oil blockoff and got the engine back in the frame. She fires on the first kick! Idle adjusted and I did notice that it is running a 240 main jet. Pretty sure with the full FMF and the K&N with no lid, the main jet will need to be bumped up.

One thing I did not check like a knucklehead was the clutch though (stupid because I was right there when installing the oil blockoff!). The clutch will not disengage. I have seen where guys have to adjust the rod or inspect the ball inbetween. Which would mean draining the oil back out, removing the cover and adjusting the rod...yay. One thing I do have a question on (excuse my newbieness)... I understand you want the pointer on the clutch arm to match up with the line on the case... are they supposed to line up without any tension on the arm? Or it that supposed to the "end" point of the arms travel when you squeeve the lever?
You want to adjust so it lines up with it on the case. When you pull the clutch it starts there, and pulls past that mark. Loosen the clutch cable, you want slack on that when adjusting.
 
So I took the right engine cover off and took a look. I noticed that the clutch boss does not spin independently from the clutch housing. I took everything apart and I noticed I had a spacer which I do not see any where on the diagram in the manual! More importantly... behind the clutch housing there were 2 flat washers or spacers as called in the manual. I put just one washer back, went to reinstall the clutch boss and dropped it where it hits the floor and busts one of the cast posts right off. LAME. So, I just ordered one off fleabay. Hopefully the "spare" parts were part of my issues. But just incase, anyone know if this is needed?
 
Yep, watched that one and Jsparky's... So it looks like this part pictured above is not part of the clutch at least. And for whatever reason I had 2 spacers behind the housing. Which makes me wonder if there is a spacer missing somewhere else. No the waiting game to get my new clutch boss.
 
So I ordered that clutch boss Thursday afternoon on ebay... got it in the mail today! From UT to VA in 2 days, not bad at all. FYI, guy goes by impala66k on ebay (figured I would acknowledge his fast shipping and service).

Took the spare spacer out from behind the housing... put everything back together how the manual specifies... works GREAT! I was able to take it out properly for the first time today. I did notice some smoke coming from the exhaust where it meets the front of the engine. Going to mess with the spring and see if I can tighten up the connection. I also need to get a new exhaust coupler. I have a good leak from there too.

Bottom line... fine ripping around on it this afternoon! That for all the info fellas!