Anodizing parts

Just got a call from Ryan, my parts are done and on their way back to me....talk about a quick turn around !!!!

and they look amazing.
link to gallery:
Gallery: Colored Anodizing: Deep Red - Ryan's Anodizing

appears they're going to match the red anodizing on my elka shocks and rezzies perfectly I:I

before and after
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rezzie clamps
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moose billet thumb throttle
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Thanx Ryan, i'll holler when they arrive !!!
 
The only problem i have found with anodizing is the color difference you will get with a weld. If you tig weld a aluminum object together and get it anodized the weld will have a little different color. I even used a different type of welding rod to stop this, but because i knew where the weld was i could see it. lol
 
The only problem i have found with anodizing is the color difference you will get with a weld. If you tig weld a aluminum object together and get it anodized the weld will have a little different color. I even used a different type of welding rod to stop this, but because i knew where the weld was i could see it. lol

you used different grades of aluminum too ?

i don't think a clear anodize would show that much difference....any protection has to be better than me only washing it twice a year :o

it's sitting here right now still dirty from the black friday ride in november....she's a dirty girl !!!
 
iv got a queston could you anidize the cases? because im thinking about building another blaster motor with the extra parts i have
 
iv got a queston could you anidize the cases? because im thinking about building another blaster motor with the extra parts i have

i wanted him to do my carb body in red too, but Ryan says cast does not anodize well at all
 
you used different grades of aluminum too ?

i don't think a clear anodize would show that much difference....any protection has to be better than me only washing it twice a year :o

it's sitting here right now still dirty from the black friday ride in november....she's a dirty girl !!!

The hand rail was clear anodize and with the wrong wire it was obvious, with the right wire it was less less less obvious, but looks better the nothing.

Different grades will color differently, even the same grade aluminum will color a bit differently. All the metal you can buy is made in mil specs, and its all a bit different. Even if i cut up one 4foot by 10foot sheet of aluminum in to 40pcs that are 12" X 12" squares, and punch some holes in them, and put a bend in them, and get them anodize, they may have a bit of a difference in color, and they may even bend differently.
Even when i get 4'X10' sheets that are anodized you can a difference in color across the sheet.
 
First off thanks for the nice words :)

Unfortunately Cast has way to much silicone in it and requires special prepping chemicals then what I got to remove the silicone from the surface. Clear anodizing cast causes the part to turn a greyish color and its near impossible to dye cast aluminum and it come out well. There are cast anodizers out there I do not know any though.

6xxx 5xxx 7xxx and 2xxx types of aluminum are the most common and anodize just fine.

To 79 Bronco: if different parts that all came from the same sheet of aluminum come out different colors its the Anodizers fault. If he has everything fine turned each batch should come out the same. Like mentioned before different alloys come out a different shade. Like 2xxx series comes out darker, paler because of the copper compared to a 6xxx series part.

Also like mentioned above welds will come out a different color shade compared to the rest of the part simply because of the different type of aluminum. What happens is different types of aluminum have different conductive properties so when you have a 6xxx part with a few welds in it the 6xxx part will pull more electricity then the welded area. This means that the 6xxx part anodizes faster then the welded area and causes a different pore structured which in turn means a different shade of color.

When anodizing the aluminum its building an oxide on the surface so however the surface looks when going into the tank is how its going to look coming out ie: scratches, machine marks, small imperfections, etc...


-Ryan
 
At work, I make cast aluminum (356 and a blend of al-mag) marine closures, primarily hatches .
Most of our products go out bare metal , a few get painted and go on yachts. And even fewer get anodized . Il be pre assembling one Monday and welding on hinges . This one will be hard anodized (slightly different process)I fully expect the hatch to come back 3tone due to the diffrent alloys 356/5083 and tig filler rod.
I always like doing anodized hatches cuz they last much longer than bare metal and the finish holds up better than paint or powder coating .
 
Dang i learn something new every day... that's why this is my favorite forum. Every now and again we get some edumac a tion.. sweet.. !!!! I got one question for the guy that posted before me.. i know there are different alluminums, but is there a big difference in the strength in the aluminum? Softness, tensile strength, ability to bend and have memory???? What's best for memory? That would return to original form if bent meaning????
 
Dang i learn something new every day... that's why this is my favorite forum. Every now and again we get some edumac a tion.. sweet.. !!!! I got one question for the guy that posted before me.. i know there are different alluminums, but is there a big difference in the strength in the aluminum? Softness, tensile strength, ability to bend and have memory???? What's best for memory? That would return to original form if bent meaning????

5xxx series aluminum is what my old company used for their boxes which had 90 degree bends in them. Other types of aluminum crack when bent. 6xxx aluminum is used mainly in machine shops. 2xxx series is used for high strength same with 7xxx. I don't have my book on my me but I can look up each type of aluminum and what they are mainly used for if you want.
 
In general terms Zanodize is correct. In addition to different alloys there is also heat treating. As far as I know (witch isn't a whole lot) there isn't a good aluminum to use for a spring as in bending and returning to original shape. Unless its a small deflection . We have our cast 356 heat treated for some military applications and its amazing how much it changes. Hard to grind and difficult to change shape ....... It's pretty springy up Untill a point
 
Thanks allot..i had no idea about aluminum.n that there are so many options.. by heat treating do you mean like annealing, like steal? Basically the only thing i know about aluminum is i have serious trouble trying to weld it, and theres different scrap value on certain kinds lol.. like a stop sign or road sign has a little flex but bend to far and it cracks (would some heat avoid this)? . i was entertaining the fact of possibly an aluminum fender, but Awk raised a good point about it cutting you up because it's sharp.. i was thinking a rolled edge maybe. Now would any of these aluminums flex like a plastic fender?? I know with a little heat it will bend fairly easy.. i have tried to use this stuff called alumaloy without success. I had a little crack in the bottom of one of my jon boats. But I've seen where they fix holes in cases and things with this stuff.. I have yet to be successful with it.. so far maybe a 100$ in practice with it n no wins.. So any negative or positive thoughts about an aluminum fender.. i personally like the look of aluminum.. My uncle works at a military air base welding planes, I'm going to ask him some info on aluminum aswell.. Thanx for any info if any in advance.. I really want to try this..
 
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WOW, Ryans work is simply outstanding !
if you didn't know i had these stripped and re-anodized, you'd never know........

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went from this....
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to this..........
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any of you guys need anything anodized, i highly recommend checking out Ryan !!

next on my list is new billet rear wheel hubs, and have them anodized red also