First things first welcome to Blaster Forum brother.
hang around and post pics of the cylinders walls on your next re-ring or re-bore.
I'd be interested in seeing.
Amzoil comparision
- Thread starter 4cfed
- Start date
First things first welcome to Blaster Forum brother.
hang around and post pics of the cylinders walls on your next re-ring or re-bore.
I'd be interested in seeing.
I know this thread is a month old but Yamalube has always been good stuff,Dominator is ok I think (Ill explain), and Belray H1R is excellent imo...thats all I run In my CR500af. I just did the top end on a friends Blaster and he gave me a Blaster for free and its nicer than the on I did the top end on for him....but any way Im off subject...I used dominator and I mixed it 24 to 1 because of the new top end plus he was letting a 12yr old break it in...and maybe its a good thing or bad but I couldnt get it smoke at all and it kept making me think I was down a few on the main jet but when I went to a 300 it bogged up high a little but still no smoke wtf lol...I settled for a 290 main but like I said Im old school and either this oil burns SUPER clean or something is wrong...probably burns super clean..it still makes me worry tho. Never had a chance to do a plug chop on it....he wanted it back so I never had a chance.
I have about a million things to say about Amsoil. but ill start by sayin...
Mixing Amsoil at heavier ratios in most cases is a complete waist of money. Mix it what the bottle tells you to. With TRUE synthetics like amsoil they have faster oil migration and WAY better oil properties them others. So less oil and still better protection.
I will say, I am pissed as an Amsoil user and dealer that the cost of the oil has gone through the roof. I still use it because it saves me money in the long run, but Im not happy about it.
#1 the more oil you add the LEANER your fuel air ratio is and the hotter it will run.
#2 the less oil you run the RICHER you fuel air ratio is and the cooler it will run
Years ago while racing for Arctic Cat I was running our sponsors oil, I was running a free air factory Pro Arctic cat Z340. I was having a hard time keeping up with the big 650 sleds and keeping my engine together. I was using an EGT and CHT guage and still killing the top end every race. We had it leaned out so much running 1250+ degrees to make the power we needed for the long 20+ mile XC races it was cooking the cylinders. One weekend we had an Amsoil dealer give us some oil to try... we had been running 100 octane fuel at 25:1. He recommended we run at 50:1 and test it. we thought he was nuts and ran it at 32:1
That weekend we ran the sled HARD and right off the bat we noticed a 25-35 degree drop in EGT temp switching to Amsoil. After we switched to 50:1 we saw even more temp drop. Enough we could go leaner on the main jet and pick up a few extra HP.
After running it all day Sat and Sunday in both the short course and long XC we trailered up and went home. When we got back we checked the compression. PERFECT. this is the first time we had run an entire weekend and seen no compression changes. we pulled the top end and inspected it properly and everything was perfect and we just put it back together. We ran that engine the rest of the 6 races for the season and still compression never changed. That weekend back in the 90s changed the way I looked at oil forever. I ran that sled for 2 more seasons and only one rebuild per season.
Mixing Amsoil at heavier ratios in most cases is a complete waist of money. Mix it what the bottle tells you to. With TRUE synthetics like amsoil they have faster oil migration and WAY better oil properties them others. So less oil and still better protection.
I will say, I am pissed as an Amsoil user and dealer that the cost of the oil has gone through the roof. I still use it because it saves me money in the long run, but Im not happy about it.
#1 the more oil you add the LEANER your fuel air ratio is and the hotter it will run.
#2 the less oil you run the RICHER you fuel air ratio is and the cooler it will run
Years ago while racing for Arctic Cat I was running our sponsors oil, I was running a free air factory Pro Arctic cat Z340. I was having a hard time keeping up with the big 650 sleds and keeping my engine together. I was using an EGT and CHT guage and still killing the top end every race. We had it leaned out so much running 1250+ degrees to make the power we needed for the long 20+ mile XC races it was cooking the cylinders. One weekend we had an Amsoil dealer give us some oil to try... we had been running 100 octane fuel at 25:1. He recommended we run at 50:1 and test it. we thought he was nuts and ran it at 32:1
That weekend we ran the sled HARD and right off the bat we noticed a 25-35 degree drop in EGT temp switching to Amsoil. After we switched to 50:1 we saw even more temp drop. Enough we could go leaner on the main jet and pick up a few extra HP.
After running it all day Sat and Sunday in both the short course and long XC we trailered up and went home. When we got back we checked the compression. PERFECT. this is the first time we had run an entire weekend and seen no compression changes. we pulled the top end and inspected it properly and everything was perfect and we just put it back together. We ran that engine the rest of the 6 races for the season and still compression never changed. That weekend back in the 90s changed the way I looked at oil forever. I ran that sled for 2 more seasons and only one rebuild per season.
Very nice explanation!! I still have a few quarts of Amsoil Dominator left...do you think it will be fine 50 to 1 for my wifes Blaster for break in? Also @ 50 to 1 do you think it will be fine in my cr500af and sons cr85? All I run in the bottom is Amsoil 10w 40 Synthetic..I just bought 3 quarts today as a matter of fact. Thanks again for the explanation
NO DO NOT BREAK IN an engine using Amsoil.
It wont work. A good synthetic like Amsoil will not allow the rings to seat properly, quickly and you engine will have low compression.
Always break in the engine using a regular 2 stroke oil, after a fairly hard break in switch to Amsoil.
Amsoil will be good for all your bikes at 50:1
keep in mind although the blaster autolube injector mixes at a aprox 20:1 to 25:1 ratio it just dribbles oil in the side of the carb. It does not mix very well with the incoming fuel compared to a pre-mixed fuel. so you can use a lot less oil and still have better protection, With regular pre-mixed bikes the ratios are based on regular oils and current jetting set up. using a better oil will provide better protection and because there is more fuel per volume.. the fual air ratio is richer allowing the bike to run slightly cooler.
It wont work. A good synthetic like Amsoil will not allow the rings to seat properly, quickly and you engine will have low compression.
Always break in the engine using a regular 2 stroke oil, after a fairly hard break in switch to Amsoil.
Amsoil will be good for all your bikes at 50:1
keep in mind although the blaster autolube injector mixes at a aprox 20:1 to 25:1 ratio it just dribbles oil in the side of the carb. It does not mix very well with the incoming fuel compared to a pre-mixed fuel. so you can use a lot less oil and still have better protection, With regular pre-mixed bikes the ratios are based on regular oils and current jetting set up. using a better oil will provide better protection and because there is more fuel per volume.. the fual air ratio is richer allowing the bike to run slightly cooler.
I'm not YFS101, but in my opinion, yes! Amsoil is a true synthetic oil and their R&D department has done its homework. Mix it according to the bottle. I've always heard its best not to break in a newly-rebuilt engine on AMSOIL; break it in on a good mineral oil and then run AMSOIL after the break-in is done. Otherwise the rings won't seat properly.
I run the Interceptor 50:1 in all my 2-strokes and run them hard. Never had a problem, and the compression is still right where it should be. The top end is coming off my Blaster in a couple weeks for porting and I'll post pics of how clean AMSOIL has kept things in there.
I run the Interceptor 50:1 in all my 2-strokes and run them hard. Never had a problem, and the compression is still right where it should be. The top end is coming off my Blaster in a couple weeks for porting and I'll post pics of how clean AMSOIL has kept things in there.
While we are on the topic of Amsoil.
My Boat runs a 79 power trim Merc 140 I6 cyl. (aka power tower) I bought it a few years ago, re freshed the cylinders, rechambered the heads and upped the compression to 160 psi, minor port clean up and polish, larger carbs and 3x 3" velocity stacks I would estimate the engine is pushing 170+ hp @ 5500. (over kill for my little 17' boat but hey... it's all good)
After it's rebuild I ran the engine in fairly aggressive 32:1 with Merc's Quicksilver oil fouled 4-5 plugs too mainly because I never let it wind out.
After an hour or so I switched tanks to my to 50:1 and ran the crap out of it.
After that tank of fuel I rejetted (drop down 2 sizes on the mains and minor mixture setting) and ran it on Amsoil Saber outboard 100:1
Instantly I could feel a big difference.
2 years in a row I ran it in the Canadian powerboat poker run, during this event that little engine runs WOT for 4-5 hours trying to keep up.
We were out for one last ride in the fall and the engine picked up a bad sputter, plugs all seemed fine, compression was perfect but while checking on the water, I damaged a spark plug hole (always use anti-seize on aluminum heads kids).
Anywho I removed the head to install a timecert and was kinda shocked to see ZERO carbon and 100% of cross hatching still remaining even on the bottom sides that have the most wear.
As it was I had a bad coil/coil post and voltage rectifier that were the cause of the sputter.
I’ve installed a Tiny tach/hour meter and I’m keeping teck of hours this engines been run and what speeds and all maintenance records to compare later on with other engines. But last I remember I was at nearly 200 hours of WOT running and another 200 or so at part or mixed throttle (tubing and skiing etc)
the boat is rated for 90hp so yeah.....its HUGE on there
My Boat runs a 79 power trim Merc 140 I6 cyl. (aka power tower) I bought it a few years ago, re freshed the cylinders, rechambered the heads and upped the compression to 160 psi, minor port clean up and polish, larger carbs and 3x 3" velocity stacks I would estimate the engine is pushing 170+ hp @ 5500. (over kill for my little 17' boat but hey... it's all good)
After it's rebuild I ran the engine in fairly aggressive 32:1 with Merc's Quicksilver oil fouled 4-5 plugs too mainly because I never let it wind out.
After an hour or so I switched tanks to my to 50:1 and ran the crap out of it.
After that tank of fuel I rejetted (drop down 2 sizes on the mains and minor mixture setting) and ran it on Amsoil Saber outboard 100:1
Instantly I could feel a big difference.
2 years in a row I ran it in the Canadian powerboat poker run, during this event that little engine runs WOT for 4-5 hours trying to keep up.
We were out for one last ride in the fall and the engine picked up a bad sputter, plugs all seemed fine, compression was perfect but while checking on the water, I damaged a spark plug hole (always use anti-seize on aluminum heads kids).
Anywho I removed the head to install a timecert and was kinda shocked to see ZERO carbon and 100% of cross hatching still remaining even on the bottom sides that have the most wear.
As it was I had a bad coil/coil post and voltage rectifier that were the cause of the sputter.
I’ve installed a Tiny tach/hour meter and I’m keeping teck of hours this engines been run and what speeds and all maintenance records to compare later on with other engines. But last I remember I was at nearly 200 hours of WOT running and another 200 or so at part or mixed throttle (tubing and skiing etc)
the boat is rated for 90hp so yeah.....its HUGE on there
ill stick to pro honda hp2 in my lt250r 40:1 and runs like a scalded dog! much happyer than it was with techniplate at 40:1
Yea they make pretty good stuff. I only use dominator and they have a dealer like 10 min away from my house walking distance.
No not really I love to use Amsoil dominator products so far. But me and my dad have been long time users of both amsoil and Yamalube and maxima is super expensive but works phenomenal. Dominator's like $9 for me with my in store discount. Here is the four ball test conducted by amsoil dont know if it's been covered but here it is
Update for me: I've been running the Blaster hard all weekend on AMSOIL Interceptor mixed 50:1. It freakin' rips and the engine seems to like it. It barely smokes once warmed up, revs clean, and stays cool. When I tear the top end down for new rings next season, I'll post some pics and we'll see how things look.
i know this is old but..
im running mine on 32;1 lucas. after reading this, im going back to amsoil haha
interceptor says 50;1, yes. but would should i run 50;1? or try it and plug chop it? 10 over motor nothin special
im running mine on 32;1 lucas. after reading this, im going back to amsoil haha
interceptor says 50;1, yes. but would should i run 50;1? or try it and plug chop it? 10 over motor nothin special
So what's the most preferred flavor of Amsoil? Saber looks pretty attractive since you can mix at 100:1.
i used yamalube before an catrol 927 was the other one i used... but i like the may the dominator ran that braaptor mixed up for me... it was 50:1 an i was surprised i never ran oil besides 32:1 in my blaster. But i was riding pretty hard up in them moutians on awks wild ride an it ran terrific. Bike stayed cool, reved Clean, no problems out the bike besides a user error
But i would defintally recommend the domonator... plus its not expensive an you mix it 50 to one so it last longer....
But i remeber awk08 saying up there that he used domonator an ran it at 32:1 an his bike ran like sh*t so if u use it use 50:1
But i would defintally recommend the domonator... plus its not expensive an you mix it 50 to one so it last longer....
But i remeber awk08 saying up there that he used domonator an ran it at 32:1 an his bike ran like sh*t so if u use it use 50:1
Just bought some of this yesterday ! And goona be mixing 32:1 for my blaster with a 120 main jet and a 155 pilot on a 30mm keihin carb. It rips pretty good for being a 200
