We all know, blasters arent the fasts little 2 stroke quads out there but they have alot of moddification potential. Heres a guideline to help you with upgrade choices and what will work best for you.
Important Mods
-Oil injection block off (either kit or DIY)
>The oil injection system is known for its low reliability and if it fails on you, your looking at a top end rebuild or you may get lucky. If you do the block off, you mix your gas/oil at whatever premix(32:1 is common) and you then have no chance of running without oil.
You can use this tutorial (link) or if you get block off kit(from vitos) then they come with instructions.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-install-oil-injection-block-off-kit-681/ - By 01blaster freak
-TORS Removal (Throttle OverRide System)
>This system was designed to kill power if the throttle was detected as stuck open. It is common for this to fail, causing electrical issues.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/ - By jlsparky7
-Gusset's
>Some swear by them, some don't bother. but if your racing or jumping alot, theres a few spots on the blaster that should be gusseted for increased strength.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s310/dabomb6/howtogussetblaster.jpg - By phragle
Engine Mods
Exhaust
Defently one of the most important, if not most important engine upgrade. The stock pipe is crap. A FMF system is one of the most popular pipes but one of the worst for power increase. Don't listen to people telling you there complete trash, there not. over stock, its a nice upgrade and for trails they are great but if you want some real power, start looking at some better ones. heres a few. Oh and DG is crap. Pretty much stock, chromed.
Dynoport
LRD
Toomey
Trinity
Pro Circuit
and several others.
Your Pipe is going to depend on your riding type. Decide what you will be doing most, and look into what type of pipe will work for you, low-mid, mid-high, top end ect...
Reeds
>There are quite a few reed options to increase your throttle response. Reeds mostly affect throttle response but do have a little effect on power.
>Popular systems would be...
-Vforce 3 reed cage system *Probably most popular
-Boyeseen 2 stage power reeds *nice improvment over stock, not to expensive
-vitos carbon flex *similar to the power reeds
-boyeseen rad valve system *another ok system
Big Bore kits
-Vitos 240 bb kit *full cylinder kit about $500. the cheapest of the big bore kits, some hate them, but they are great for the money. if given to a good engine builder, they can really liven it up with some good porting.
-CT sonic 240 kit *The full blown kit runs anywhere from $1000-1500 and setup right, can make 40hp.
Theres a couple others that make good power but with a 240 kit, you have to think about power-price. the stock cylinder with a good port job can make as much power or more than the vitos 240 kit, but if you port the vitos 240 kit, you will have some awsome power.
Carbs
-the stock 26mm carb on a stock motor is fine but if you start modifiying your engine, you will want to feed it more air/fuel with a bigger carb. one of the favored carbs is the kehin 35mm airstryker carb, great for a heavily modified engine. a 30mm mikuni D slide carb or similar on a engine with a pipe and airbox lid removed will give you a good power increase.
Pistons
-If you want some nice power and rebuilding, go with a wiseco forged aluminum prolight piston. Remeber, cast pistons = bad.
Crankshafts
You have a couple options with crankshafts. you have your stock stroke crank, a +3(vitos) and a +4 (hot rods). adding more stroke = more displacement and more power. With the vitos +3, you just have to shave off some of the crank casing to alow the rod to clear, but for the +4 you have to have your cases "trenched" which means shaving out the bottom to alow more clearence for the rod. Since Changing the length of the stroke changes the timing of the piston, you should have the ports reworked for the new rod length. (thanks 245stroker for the port reworking point)
Compression/Head mods
More compression = more power
Having your head rechambered/redesigned will alow for more power. the Dome type head has been proven to be the most efficent for making power.
increasing your compression by shaving your head(essentially bringing the head closer to the piston... so almost same displacement but compressed into a smaller space.
With higher compression you have to think about fuel types. Higher compression = higher octane fuel. at about 170psi your looking at a 50/50 mix of 91 and 110 to give you approx. 100 octane. if your octane rating isnt high enough, you could get detonation(when the fuel/air mix ignights under pressure before its ignited by the spark plug) this will cause major damage if rode under these conditions.
-4+ Timing advance *free!*
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-4-degree-timing-advance-pics-2417/
-Airbox lid removal
>this will depend on what type of riding you do, if you like to mud, this isnt for you. The stock airbox is quite restrictive and by removing the lid, your alowing for quite abit more air in and more air=more power. **BUT** you MUST Rejet for the increased air! you will run lean and fry your top end if you do not add more fuel to that increased amount of air.
Suspension
If you talk to anyone thats upgraded there suspension, they'll go on about how crappy stock is. And if you've ridden anything else, you must realize how bad it truely is.
Shocks
-Stock Banshee front shocks are a cheap replacement over stock, not much better but an improvement.
-YFZ450 front shocks are good with +2 or more a-arms.
-YFZ450 rear shock works too with minimal moding, but raises the back end about 3"
-400ex rear shock is one of the most popular cheap replacements and many love them. lots of adjustability and a very nice ride. Only raises rear end about 1.5"
-trx250r rear shock works well with minimum modification. Also has a remote rez. (thanks 245stroker for this fact)
aftermarket shocks for a blaster will be best, but always the expensive route.
-Custom Axis
-Elka
-Works
A-Arms
There are so many choices on a-arms I could go on forever. Decide how wide you would like to make the front. +3+1 (usualy first number is width and 2nd is 1" forward, but most are +1 forward anyway) you got long travel, normal travel, different types of joints (heim/ball)
Burgard is a decent aftermarket a-arm setup for an ok price. if you want top of the line nicest makes, your looking at anywhere from 500-800.
Swingarm
alot of people like to upgrade to +3/+4 swingarms for more stability. any more than +4 for trail or mx riding is going to be crappy. +5 and up would be for dunes or drag. Swingarms can be expensive, but if you get cheap ones(swingarm shop on ebay is an example) they suck and break easily. Blunt but the truth. your looking at around $500-900 for a high quality, new swingarm. some people have been lucky to find some great deals on 800 dollar swingarms used for like 300-500 so keep an eye out on ebay and such.
Axle
Stock axle isnt weak but if you add wheel spacers, you will bend it if you jump or ride hard.
Aftermarket axles will give you more strength and width. alot are adjustable by moving spacers at the wheel hubs.
A banshee axle is 3 1/2 widen than stock blaster, but depending on what year blaster you have (88-02 / 03+) you have to make sure you have the right setup. You will need a banshee brake hub or 03+ blaster brake hub for a banshee axle, if you have a 03+ blaster, its a dirrect swap.
Handlebars
Handlebars are one of those things that everyone has there own brand. renthal are pretty popular but then you have tag, fly, pro taper, and then theres the flex bars. the flex bars are quite expensive and probably overkill but they flex at the 2 joints with different strength rubber pieces to soften impacts/pressure.
Steering stems
Theres a few aftermarket steering stems available that give you lighter, stronger and more length, dpending on what you choose. as well as anti-vibe clamps.
Tires
Tires are really important. The stock balloon tires just arent going to give you the traction/control you need. some nice holeshot style tires are ideal(the flat topped type) maxxis razrs are just one popular brand all around. (see Useful Stuff section for a link to choosing tires)
Brakes
Theres a few options for 88-02 blaster brake replacements, 03+ will bolt on with 03+ spindles and all the other 03+ parts. You can also modify banshee or warrior spindles to make a hydro system that will work for the front end.
Routine Maintenance
-Transmision Oil
>Recomended 10W30 Oil for ATV/Motorcyle transmisions or Bel-ray Gear saver 80W90 for motorcle transmisions. Automotive transmision oils or anything like that has anti-friction modifiers which will kill your "wet" clutch.
-Clean airfilter (PROPERLY!) every few rides.
>Excelent air filter maintenance guide
Clean And Happy - Tips To Air Filter Maintenance
-Silencer Repacking
>Over Time your silencer will get full of grime and get compacted, its a good idea to repack it (see link) to keep backpressure up and sound levels lower.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-re-pack-your-silencer-w-steel-wool-255/
-Carb Maintenance
>should always clean your carb after its been sitting for a very long time (ex: after put away for winter)
-Check intake boot(rubber boot between carb and reeds) every month or so for cracks that would cause an air leak and fry your top end.
-Make sure all bolts are tightened and havent come loose, all cotter pins are in place, all bearings are ok and don't be mean, quads like to be clean.
Important Info
How to do a Break In procedure *Required after rebuild!* - By lbwd
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-break-two-stroke-315/
Good Jetting info - By Randelator
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/
How to read spark plug colors - By lbwd
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-read-spark-plug-colors-263/
Useful Stuff
Mechanical Rear Brake problems? How to make them work! - By blasternoob (thanks blasterman87)
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/cable-rear-brakes-how-make-them-work-3830/
Race Prep - By phragle
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/race-prep-10700/
High Flow Fuel petcock - By Paulie B
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-hi-flow-fuel-petcot-2822/
Cheap And Easy Handlebar Risers - By blasterfreek30
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/cheap-easy-handle-bar-risers-4428/
How to Build a Leakdown Tester - By phragle
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
Decent manual for online
http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
How to find the right tires
4X4REVIEW.COM: 5 Steps to Selecting the Right Tire for Your ATV
Thanks to all the other writters of the DIY's i linked to in this thread!
If i've missed anything you belive should be included, pm me and ill add it with acknowledgement of who suggested it.
Important Mods
-Oil injection block off (either kit or DIY)
>The oil injection system is known for its low reliability and if it fails on you, your looking at a top end rebuild or you may get lucky. If you do the block off, you mix your gas/oil at whatever premix(32:1 is common) and you then have no chance of running without oil.
You can use this tutorial (link) or if you get block off kit(from vitos) then they come with instructions.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-install-oil-injection-block-off-kit-681/ - By 01blaster freak
-TORS Removal (Throttle OverRide System)
>This system was designed to kill power if the throttle was detected as stuck open. It is common for this to fail, causing electrical issues.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-remove-your-tors-655/ - By jlsparky7
-Gusset's
>Some swear by them, some don't bother. but if your racing or jumping alot, theres a few spots on the blaster that should be gusseted for increased strength.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s310/dabomb6/howtogussetblaster.jpg - By phragle
Engine Mods
Exhaust
Defently one of the most important, if not most important engine upgrade. The stock pipe is crap. A FMF system is one of the most popular pipes but one of the worst for power increase. Don't listen to people telling you there complete trash, there not. over stock, its a nice upgrade and for trails they are great but if you want some real power, start looking at some better ones. heres a few. Oh and DG is crap. Pretty much stock, chromed.
Dynoport
LRD
Toomey
Trinity
Pro Circuit
and several others.
Your Pipe is going to depend on your riding type. Decide what you will be doing most, and look into what type of pipe will work for you, low-mid, mid-high, top end ect...
Reeds
>There are quite a few reed options to increase your throttle response. Reeds mostly affect throttle response but do have a little effect on power.
>Popular systems would be...
-Vforce 3 reed cage system *Probably most popular
-Boyeseen 2 stage power reeds *nice improvment over stock, not to expensive
-vitos carbon flex *similar to the power reeds
-boyeseen rad valve system *another ok system
Big Bore kits
-Vitos 240 bb kit *full cylinder kit about $500. the cheapest of the big bore kits, some hate them, but they are great for the money. if given to a good engine builder, they can really liven it up with some good porting.
-CT sonic 240 kit *The full blown kit runs anywhere from $1000-1500 and setup right, can make 40hp.
Theres a couple others that make good power but with a 240 kit, you have to think about power-price. the stock cylinder with a good port job can make as much power or more than the vitos 240 kit, but if you port the vitos 240 kit, you will have some awsome power.
Carbs
-the stock 26mm carb on a stock motor is fine but if you start modifiying your engine, you will want to feed it more air/fuel with a bigger carb. one of the favored carbs is the kehin 35mm airstryker carb, great for a heavily modified engine. a 30mm mikuni D slide carb or similar on a engine with a pipe and airbox lid removed will give you a good power increase.
Pistons
-If you want some nice power and rebuilding, go with a wiseco forged aluminum prolight piston. Remeber, cast pistons = bad.
Crankshafts
You have a couple options with crankshafts. you have your stock stroke crank, a +3(vitos) and a +4 (hot rods). adding more stroke = more displacement and more power. With the vitos +3, you just have to shave off some of the crank casing to alow the rod to clear, but for the +4 you have to have your cases "trenched" which means shaving out the bottom to alow more clearence for the rod. Since Changing the length of the stroke changes the timing of the piston, you should have the ports reworked for the new rod length. (thanks 245stroker for the port reworking point)
Compression/Head mods
More compression = more power
Having your head rechambered/redesigned will alow for more power. the Dome type head has been proven to be the most efficent for making power.
increasing your compression by shaving your head(essentially bringing the head closer to the piston... so almost same displacement but compressed into a smaller space.
With higher compression you have to think about fuel types. Higher compression = higher octane fuel. at about 170psi your looking at a 50/50 mix of 91 and 110 to give you approx. 100 octane. if your octane rating isnt high enough, you could get detonation(when the fuel/air mix ignights under pressure before its ignited by the spark plug) this will cause major damage if rode under these conditions.
-4+ Timing advance *free!*
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-4-degree-timing-advance-pics-2417/
-Airbox lid removal
>this will depend on what type of riding you do, if you like to mud, this isnt for you. The stock airbox is quite restrictive and by removing the lid, your alowing for quite abit more air in and more air=more power. **BUT** you MUST Rejet for the increased air! you will run lean and fry your top end if you do not add more fuel to that increased amount of air.
Suspension
If you talk to anyone thats upgraded there suspension, they'll go on about how crappy stock is. And if you've ridden anything else, you must realize how bad it truely is.
Shocks
-Stock Banshee front shocks are a cheap replacement over stock, not much better but an improvement.
-YFZ450 front shocks are good with +2 or more a-arms.
-YFZ450 rear shock works too with minimal moding, but raises the back end about 3"
-400ex rear shock is one of the most popular cheap replacements and many love them. lots of adjustability and a very nice ride. Only raises rear end about 1.5"
-trx250r rear shock works well with minimum modification. Also has a remote rez. (thanks 245stroker for this fact)
aftermarket shocks for a blaster will be best, but always the expensive route.
-Custom Axis
-Elka
-Works
A-Arms
There are so many choices on a-arms I could go on forever. Decide how wide you would like to make the front. +3+1 (usualy first number is width and 2nd is 1" forward, but most are +1 forward anyway) you got long travel, normal travel, different types of joints (heim/ball)
Burgard is a decent aftermarket a-arm setup for an ok price. if you want top of the line nicest makes, your looking at anywhere from 500-800.
Swingarm
alot of people like to upgrade to +3/+4 swingarms for more stability. any more than +4 for trail or mx riding is going to be crappy. +5 and up would be for dunes or drag. Swingarms can be expensive, but if you get cheap ones(swingarm shop on ebay is an example) they suck and break easily. Blunt but the truth. your looking at around $500-900 for a high quality, new swingarm. some people have been lucky to find some great deals on 800 dollar swingarms used for like 300-500 so keep an eye out on ebay and such.
Axle
Stock axle isnt weak but if you add wheel spacers, you will bend it if you jump or ride hard.
Aftermarket axles will give you more strength and width. alot are adjustable by moving spacers at the wheel hubs.
A banshee axle is 3 1/2 widen than stock blaster, but depending on what year blaster you have (88-02 / 03+) you have to make sure you have the right setup. You will need a banshee brake hub or 03+ blaster brake hub for a banshee axle, if you have a 03+ blaster, its a dirrect swap.
Handlebars
Handlebars are one of those things that everyone has there own brand. renthal are pretty popular but then you have tag, fly, pro taper, and then theres the flex bars. the flex bars are quite expensive and probably overkill but they flex at the 2 joints with different strength rubber pieces to soften impacts/pressure.
Steering stems
Theres a few aftermarket steering stems available that give you lighter, stronger and more length, dpending on what you choose. as well as anti-vibe clamps.
Tires
Tires are really important. The stock balloon tires just arent going to give you the traction/control you need. some nice holeshot style tires are ideal(the flat topped type) maxxis razrs are just one popular brand all around. (see Useful Stuff section for a link to choosing tires)
Brakes
Theres a few options for 88-02 blaster brake replacements, 03+ will bolt on with 03+ spindles and all the other 03+ parts. You can also modify banshee or warrior spindles to make a hydro system that will work for the front end.
Routine Maintenance
-Transmision Oil
>Recomended 10W30 Oil for ATV/Motorcyle transmisions or Bel-ray Gear saver 80W90 for motorcle transmisions. Automotive transmision oils or anything like that has anti-friction modifiers which will kill your "wet" clutch.
-Clean airfilter (PROPERLY!) every few rides.
>Excelent air filter maintenance guide
Clean And Happy - Tips To Air Filter Maintenance
-Silencer Repacking
>Over Time your silencer will get full of grime and get compacted, its a good idea to repack it (see link) to keep backpressure up and sound levels lower.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-re-pack-your-silencer-w-steel-wool-255/
-Carb Maintenance
>should always clean your carb after its been sitting for a very long time (ex: after put away for winter)
-Check intake boot(rubber boot between carb and reeds) every month or so for cracks that would cause an air leak and fry your top end.
-Make sure all bolts are tightened and havent come loose, all cotter pins are in place, all bearings are ok and don't be mean, quads like to be clean.
Important Info
How to do a Break In procedure *Required after rebuild!* - By lbwd
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-break-two-stroke-315/
Good Jetting info - By Randelator
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/jetting-101-everything-explained-1625/
How to read spark plug colors - By lbwd
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-read-spark-plug-colors-263/
Useful Stuff
Mechanical Rear Brake problems? How to make them work! - By blasternoob (thanks blasterman87)
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/cable-rear-brakes-how-make-them-work-3830/
Race Prep - By phragle
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/race-prep-10700/
High Flow Fuel petcock - By Paulie B
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/diy-hi-flow-fuel-petcot-2822/
Cheap And Easy Handlebar Risers - By blasterfreek30
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/cheap-easy-handle-bar-risers-4428/
How to Build a Leakdown Tester - By phragle
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
Decent manual for online
http://www.rydindirty.com/blastermanual.pdf
How to find the right tires
4X4REVIEW.COM: 5 Steps to Selecting the Right Tire for Your ATV
Thanks to all the other writters of the DIY's i linked to in this thread!
If i've missed anything you belive should be included, pm me and ill add it with acknowledgement of who suggested it.
Last edited:
