a few questions about my 01 blaster

borednstreched

New Member
Nov 19, 2011
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coulmubs n.e.
i recently got a 01 blaster. i let it idle for awhile when i bought it, rode it around, it was fast as hell. put it away for the night. then rode it for about 30mins the next day. i was in 4th gear just puttin around, went to get on it and the powerband wouldnt kick in, then it died. i took the dome off and found that my rings and top ringlands by the exhaust port had practically been atomized. what could have caused this? bad gas mix(oiler delete), was it already like this and i finished it off, crank wobble causing the piston to dig into the cyl? i just have no idea.
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what is the tors delete?
also i cant seem to identify the make of my extended swing arm, anyone got a clue?
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Looks to me like the rings got caught on the exhaust port, chamfering them will stop that. Also could of been running lean due to an airleak. Looks like time for a bore/port and new piston. Before you put that together take the motor out pour some marvel mystery oil in ther and flush out any residual pieces in that bottom end or you be replacing case halves next!

Never seen that swingarm, looks like a homeade job, doesn't look like much support where the shock mount is at.
 
theres a sold L plate that connects the bottom of the shock mount into the gusset and lower tubes. im a welder by trade and in my opnion its seems to be a very solid design. ill have to pull it off and take better pics.
 
^I've seen a few people saying that about YB. Can you quickly sum up what his deal was?

But I'd suggest measuring that cylinder, going up next size in bore and new piston. Good thing to do if you just bought the Blaster. Good to know what's going on in your motor.
 
ya i already decided to rebuild with a new piston. i know i want forged, seeing how easy this namaura was destroyed. whats out there for options? im looking at the vitos 240 kit, oconnors 68mm job with porting/chamfering, or having doug brunkworst here in town do a 68mm bore and hone and porting myself. looking to spend 600-700 on it.

i read i need a bigger carb for the 240 kit, is that true or can you get away with rejetting?
02 and older blaster you can just unplug the wires for the tors from the thumblever and carb to disengage it correct? or do you have to remove the box from on top the carb and get a new top cap with the delete kit.

also theres a little red light on the plastics underneath the handle bars. is it a temp warning or what.
 
stock carb on bbk kit is not recommended, will work but waste of a good bbk in my book, 34/35mm for bbk's

yes on the tors delete,
yes on oconnor racing, the piece of mind far outweighs the shipping costs

red light is low oil warning light for the oil injection tank under the seat, which brings up good questions............. is the oil injection still on and functioning, is there oil in the tank, if eliminated, what mix ratio were you using ???
or was this run out of injection oil and that caused this siezure ????
be sure, if injection is eliminated, the injector on the side of the carb is blocked off,

this should be leakdown tested before disassembling, and piston to cylinder measured
to try and pinpoint the cause of this mishap, so it doesnt happen again

also.... read up on proper breakin procedures, heat cycles, retorqueing base and head bolts, leakdown testing, and plug chops, to your new motor before riding it
 
the oil tank was removed i have no idea if it was blocked off. the guy said he just dumped some oil in the gas, said he had no idea what it is ratiod at, and to drain the gas he just put it in there to start it. he said he usually tried to get it at about 32:1.
 
Wow, lol. Your piston melted from detonation, just FYI. Even though the previous ower just guessed at the pre-mix ratio, it would have taken almost straight gas to cause what you are looking at. Id be willing to bet your engine either had an air leak or was running on stock jets with mods before it blew.

Awk covered alll the basics. Like he said, be sure to do a leak-down test on the engine at least before starting it after the rebuild.

Ken O Connor Racing is a great way to go to get your engine up and running. His work will give you good power and reliability, all while staying within your budget.