A-arms help

[Green acres]

I am in the market for some new a-arms and shocks, I'm not sure what brands to to buy asr, or lonestar arms and Elka or work shocks also not sure if I should go with long travel or not, just lookin for some advise from someone who has more experiance to let me know what would be the better buy, I mainly ride trails and I'm an intermediate rider. Thanks guys

 

[yzrider]

get some of these Store - Snyder Motorsports a arms, u goota click on yamaha then go to blaster and click on the 5 +1 long travels, or if ur not gonna go that far, the asr and burgard have always been top picks

 

[tyler1blaster]

asr a-arms are the most common. they are cheap and work well. many people run works shocks with asr a-arms and love the results. but if you have the money for lonestar a-arms with elka shocks you'll be a lot more pleased. more money USUALLY = better quality and results. here is where you can buy asr a-arms: ASR Yamaha Blaster +3 up 1 PRO X Series Racing A-Arms : eBay Motors (item 120544743136 end time Apr-16-10 11:52:21 PDT)

 

[Green acres]

i was looking at both sets of shock and a arms and I can get lonestar arms and elka shocks for like 300 more but just wasn't sure if it was worth the extra money and is there a real advantage of going +1 forward because the lone star arms are only extended 2 wide. thanks for the responses

 

[stephen12091985]

if your got the money to spend definitily get some elkas.and for a arms depends on how wide you wanna go and how much you wanna spend

 

[doc_speeder]

Don't overlook the Fox Float shocks. Awesome, and very light.

 

[Green acres]

Cool I'll look into those a little more do u know how reliable the are with the whole air shock thing

 

[Mborso1029]

if your trying not to hurt the wallet def go with the burgar+3+1 and a set of 450 shocks....real nice setup

 

[blasterfreek30]

^^ i agree, i absolutly love my yfz shocks and 400ex rear....if dialed in right, the ride is like a pillow

 

[Green acres]

Do the yfz shock bolt up to the burgard arms or will they need some mods to put them on, thanks again guys this sight is awsome

 

[phragle]

properly setup, works shocks rock. I really havent looked at anyones arms beside laegers and roll's. Though if a shop does their homework, the longer the arm the more travel you can get. slapping a "long travel" label on a set of arms is about worthless. most builders use the term to mean a longer shock is needed. A true long travel a-arm has the balljoint and shock mounting optimized to provide as much wheel travel as possible

 

[Green acres]

Phragle it sounds like u know what you are talking about so saying that I'm going to do all the work myself and looking to doit it right the first time would you recomend this job for some who has some experiance with mechanics and also would you recomend a 2+1 or a 3+1 arms and what should I do to the swingarm and axle to match the front

 

[Luni]

Interested to know about the setup of a YFZ shock on a blaster with extended a-arms.

 

[brandoz28]

Phragle it sounds like u know what you are talking about so saying that I'm going to do all the work myself and looking to doit it right the first time would you recomend this job for some who has some experiance with mechanics and also would you recomend a 2+1 or a 3+1 arms and what should I do to the swingarm and axle to match the front

need to get some suspension books and start reading. putting together a set of a arms that have stock geometry isn't that hard. doing what phragle is talking about requires a good amount of knowledge of the dynamics of what's happening with the suspension. monitoring camber change through travel, as well as any castor changes that may take place. plus if you get all good components and build arms from chromoly you're not coming out that much cheaper than buying a set of a arms.

not really trying to talk you out of it....just trying to let you know what you're up against

 

[brandoz28]

properly setup, works shocks rock. I really havent looked at anyones arms beside laegers and roll's. Though if a shop does their homework, the longer the arm the more travel you can get. slapping a "long travel" label on a set of arms is about worthless. most builders use the term to mean a longer shock is needed. A true long travel a-arm has the balljoint and shock mounting optimized to provide as much wheel travel as possible

i'll put in a plug for works...even though i bought my shocks 2nd (maybe 3rd or 4th) hand, they were very helpful for me. helped me figure out what all i needed, and even emailed me their instructions on how to service the shocks

 

[phragle]

I have not seen them nor riden them, so all i am going by is concept here.. but the SMS +5 and tucking the wheels to keep the width reasonable seem rather appealing. When your limited to the articulation of the balljoint, length increases travel potential.

 

[Brute71]

need to get some suspension books and start reading. putting together a set of a arms that have stock geometry isn't that hard. doing what phragle is talking about requires a good amount of knowledge of the dynamics of what's happening with the suspension. monitoring camber change through travel, as well as any castor changes that may take place. plus if you get all good components and build arms from chromoly you're not coming out that much cheaper than buying a set of a arms.

not really trying to talk you out of it....just trying to let you know what you're up against

actually the cost isnt all that much, the chrommoly tubing needed is under $100 (yes i have looked it up, onlinemetals.com) and if you use the stock arm bushings its that much cheaper. The only thing i have found trouble with finding is proper ball joints, i have found some online but i am not sure on how they would work. Buying ones that the a-arm manufacturers use is quite expensive.

 

[Green acres]

I don't think I want to get that far into it that might be a little advanced for me. Realy after after searching the Internet I think i just want the burgard 2+1 or 3+1 with the stage 1 elka or the cheaper fox shocks that kit looks and sounds like it should bolt on without much know how. Any ideas on what to do to my swingarm and axle after that

 

[phragle]

I remember going behind the counter at napa with a banshee spindle in my hand looking at every tierod end they had trying to match up taper..1988. Reamed the spindles to mathc the 250r. they can use pontiac fiero rear upper balljoints (funco arms) vw tierod ends (early leager) ford courrier tie rod ends (most everybody else) no most of the big guys have them made. Roll uses uniballs, though C&J (Roll before roll) used couriors..