2004 Blaster Plug Chop

[offtosleep]

As posted preciously, purchased a 2004 Blaster in great shape.....just not running. Cleaned the carb. Had to roll start it, but once warm....it starts first kick. Let it set over night and it doesn't start unless I roll start it....even then it takes a while to start. Runs like a dream once going. Only up grade is a Uni filter. I decided to do a plug chop. Here is the results:







BTW, followed the plug chop protocol to a "T."

What do you think. Trying to get the stuff to do a leak test. I don't think the motor has many hours on it.

 

[offtosleep]

Elevation is approximately 3500-3600ft. Outside temp was about 95 degrees

 

[Blaaster]

Not a good indication of a smoke ring, something very wrong here if you followed the plug chop procedure to a T.

Is that a B8ES plug?

Leak test, set float level and adjust idle.

State your mods and jetting and we will get to the bottom of this for you.

If you have to tow it to start, then there must be a problem, a motor with good compression, good reeds and spark (which obviously you have) should start by the kicker with the choke on, in any temperature.

You are either low on compression, have an air leak or the carby needs attention.

 

[offtosleep]

As I stated, only mod is a Uni filter....nothing else. I'll pull the carb and see what jet is in there, but it will be what ever was factory for Blaster sold in Phoenix Arizona.

Per the plug chop procedure, warmed the bike up with an old plug. Turned the bike off and put in a new BR8ES. Started the bike and rode WOT from 1 to sixth gear. Held it in 6th WOT for 20 seconds and killed the engine, pulled the clutch in, and releases the throttle. Pulled to the side of the road. Removed plug and put the old one back in and rode home. Took the "Plug Chop" spark plug in a vise and cut it. Posted pics

 

[offtosleep]

Once running, the bike runs great. Idles just fine. When I first got the bike, I cleaned out the carb and carefully reassembled it without ANY changes.....other than it being sparkly clean. The tank was fully washed out and a brand new petcock was installed. All fuel lines are brand new.

 

[offtosleep]

I don't tow it it start it. Just roll down my drive way (approximately 50 yards long)

 

[89blaster89]

As I stated, only mod is a Uni filter....nothing else. I'll pull the carb and see what jet is in there, but it will be what ever was factory for Blaster sold in Phoenix Arizona.

Per the plug chop procedure, warmed the bike up with an old plug. Turned the bike off and put in a new BR8ES. Started the bike and rode WOT from 1 to sixth gear. Held it in 6th WOT for 20 seconds and killed the engine, pulled the clutch in, and releases the throttle. Pulled to the side of the road. Removed plug and put the old one back in and rode home. Took the "Plug Chop" spark plug in a vise and cut it. Posted pics

that sounds about right, I don't see why the plug Is like that though

 

[89blaster89]

try doing it over but lightly pressing brake to make the engine be under a load. or do it up a hill, or try only going 1 thorgh 5

 

[Blaaster]

As I stated, only mod is a Uni filter....nothing else. I'll pull the carb and see what jet is in there, but it will be what ever was factory for Blaster sold in Phoenix Arizona.

Per the plug chop procedure, warmed the bike up with an old plug. Turned the bike off and put in a new BR8ES. Started the bike and rode WOT from 1 to sixth gear. Held it in 6th WOT for 20 seconds and killed the engine, pulled the clutch in, and releases the throttle. Pulled to the side of the road. Removed plug and put the old one back in and rode home. Took the "Plug Chop" spark plug in a vise and cut it. Posted pics

Hereby may lie the problem.

The motor must be pulling strongly for a smoke ring to form, 20 secs may have introduced too much heat.

Do the run again and WOT for 6 - 10 secs and see if you can get a ring.

 

[offtosleep]

Okay. I'll redo it.....unfortunately, I won't be able to get back to it for a week (leaving on vacation)

 

[jus_me]

When was last time it was rebuilt? Piston and rings? Any way to do a compression test.?? How hard is it to push down kicker, Can you do it with one finger..????

 

[offtosleep]

"Feels" like it has good compression. No, can't push it down with your hand. My 12 year old son can do it....and I can do it obviously. Like I said, once it's been running, it easily starts on the first kick. I'm sure if I kicked and kicked and kicked, I may be able to get it going after its sat 24hrs, but so much easier to just roll it down the hill

 

[Blaaster]

If you have to roll it downhill to start, there is definatly an underlying problem which could kill the motor.

Motor death could be avoided by performing a compression and a leak test.

 

[offtosleep]

Okay gang! Finally got back to town and borrowed a compression tester. Followed the guidelines on the site and compression came back at 90psi.

Going to tear the top end down this weekend. I'll post the results

 

[Blaaster]

Before you tear the top end down , do a leak test to maybe find out why the compression was 90psi.

 

[offtosleep]

Is there anyone on the forum who sells a leak down tester? I'd rather buy one that build one or buy the expensive Motion Pro one.

I've read that someone was selling them, but haven't tracked that down yet.

 

[Herpderplol]

Is there anyone on the forum who sells a leak down tester? I'd rather buy one that build one or buy the expensive Motion Pro one.

I've read that someone was selling them, but haven't tracked that down yet.

Awk08

151515151511515

 

[best]

OK, that plug reading typically indicated cold plug due to the dark on the end or insufficient throttle or pressure or likely in this case the low compression not driving the smoke ring down to the base of the insulator. Not reving high enough into the rpm range will do that too.

I find for reading plugs the longer and harder you run it the better.
I actually like to see the plug up to operating temperature which will whiten up the tip, darken the smoke ring, give a true reading.
Mixture smoke ring is at the base of the insulator, driven down there by pressure.
Plug temp is the top half of the insulator, best read after a long hard run.
Mixture can also be read off the shiny metal on a new plug, look for soot build up, but do the chop until you are experienced.

I normally don't differ from Blaaster, but I'd suggest to run it longer and harder to get a true plug reading. The only danger in that is blowing up an engine that is too lean, which yours gives no indication. I have run my 125 on the street with only 90 psi compression, makes for easy kicking but lazy starting (several kicks). If the pilot jet mixture is off or you have an air leak it will behave exactly like you are finding.

These guys have good advice, leak test, then a new ring. Never hurts to check the bore clearance and think about a new piston with a Blaster. If the bore clearance gets too sloppy the skirt can break off the piston and ruin your day. If the piston is tight, just ring it.

Steve

 

[offtosleep]

Just ordered the awk08 leak tester. As soon as it comes I'm going to check to see if there is a leak and them I'm going to tear it down.

On thing I noticed as I'm been moving the bike around the garage since its been down is that the clutch handle cam be easily pulled in (I'm talkin about being to able to pull it with your pinky finger). Kinda weird. Any ideas?

I know I should probably start a new thread, but thought I'd ask since its on the same bike.

 

[offtosleep]

Since I know that Im going to be doing a rebuild, what Moose Racing seal kit should I get?

Or do you guys recommmend another kit?