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2002 Blaster rebuild
- Thread starter Mariusz
- Start date
welcome
you can look on here to help find names of parts. go to oem parts, fill it out
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/s/53/ATV-Parts?gclid=CJim7puqlMICFUto7AodryYAYw
that plastic cover that oil lines go into can just simply be unscrewed to see if the stock oil injection is still on it.
it is separate, so no oil will spill or nothing will get damaged
you can look on here to help find names of parts. go to oem parts, fill it out
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/s/53/ATV-Parts?gclid=CJim7puqlMICFUto7AodryYAYw
that plastic cover that oil lines go into can just simply be unscrewed to see if the stock oil injection is still on it.
it is separate, so no oil will spill or nothing will get damaged
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Welcome to the site. Good start to a good project. Get your hardware from the dealership. Some of the hardware is reasonably priced. Since your unaware of the oil pump and whatnot, and your missing parts for it, you should just delete it all together with the kit along with the tors kit. Not sure how much it is to purchase a new oil tank online or from a dealer but if you want to retain the oil injection, I say go for it.
well today I had a very hard time starting the quad , took the carburetor apart cleaned it , it back fires a lot , and still hard to start , going to read up abut the carburetors .
backfiring= timing,tors....throttle. over. ride .system
can you see through the pilot jet?
you seem very smart so i dont know what you already know.if you know what i mean lol
can you see through the pilot jet?
you seem very smart so i dont know what you already know.if you know what i mean lol
thanks for the info , I know my way around mechanical stuff but this is my first two stroke , took the carb apart again carb is spotless jets are clean , i mixed gas with oil at more 40:1 , dint want to fry the rings on first run maybe that's what causing hard starts , but when i started it first time it ran great
we mix our blaster's at 32:1
pilot jet needs to be soaked in carb cleaner,perhaps blown with compressed..ect
reeds need to be seating fully,with no chipped or broken pedal
idle is under the seat big screw
air screw should be set at 1 1/2 turns out
and also...........i see it is for sale
pilot jet needs to be soaked in carb cleaner,perhaps blown with compressed..ect
reeds need to be seating fully,with no chipped or broken pedal
idle is under the seat big screw
air screw should be set at 1 1/2 turns out
and also...........i see it is for sale
Good deal for $100.
Speedy said it above, hard starts usually point to bad reeds. Check to see if the woodruff key didn't shear, that would allow the timing to be off causing you some backfires.
Speedy said it above, hard starts usually point to bad reeds. Check to see if the woodruff key didn't shear, that would allow the timing to be off causing you some backfires.
took the reeds out today , they looks good as far as I can tell , put the mixture screw at 1.5 turns out started a lot easier took good 4 or 5 kicks , it ran good throttle response a little late at low end , but its running
When starting, pull out the choke and keep your thumb off of the throttle!
Idle speed adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Idle speed adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Got the whole blaster back together , starts 2nd or 3rd kick still lags at low end mixture screw is off a little , ordered new chain and sprockets , have to change transition oil looked it up and it seems that a .75 quart is enough .
im not sure about rottela..i think it is found at autoparts stores...i have 2 shops in town so i buy from the yamaha dealers
10w 30w is fine..this is 20w40w....i myself believe the 80w oils that some people use kill your clutch..it is better for transmission but how often does a gear break opposed to a clutch..there is a lot of threads on oil just do a googe search or whatever and you will see them
10w 30w is fine..this is 20w40w....i myself believe the 80w oils that some people use kill your clutch..it is better for transmission but how often does a gear break opposed to a clutch..there is a lot of threads on oil just do a googe search or whatever and you will see them
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