2000 Blaster question

fold the rag more and tighter, or a piece of aluminum 1/8" - 1/4" thick
 
Pretty excited. I found a complete bottom end that came off a running blaster. I'm going to pick it up tonight. My plan is to out my new top end on the new-to-me bottom end. Then I'm going to finish the bott end that's already torn apart, bore that icky cylinder out and stick that on my what will be rebuilt bottom end. Viola! Two complete engines!

the bottom end I'm going to pick up tonight has a clutch kit in it which will be nice. I'm pretty excited about it!
 
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Ok. So some news. I got it all put together tonight. Tried starting it. Started on the third or fourth kick. Awesome. But it didn't stay running.

I have a 300 jet in there (start high). Same needle position, same pilot jet. it NEEDS the choke on to start. No matter if it's warm or not. Then when it gets started, push the choke in, it will bog down. Hit the gas, it hesitates really bad, then will Rev sky Fricken high and won't come back down... why?

Any suggestions would be amazing. I may have forgotten to type some stuff out, so ask any questions you can think of.
 
I haven't touched the floats so the should be where they were before. "Should" being the operative word there...

Sadly I don't have a leak down tester... I really should... I know this... can you hear the embarrassment in my "voice"?

But to answer your questions, no and no
 
Definitely need to leak test. Most of the time the dang intake leaks somewhere. Also since it is a fresh rebuild on the bottom end you want to make sure all the seals and gaskets and all are all leak free.
 
The bottom end was already put together. It was off a running blaster so all I needed to do was put the stator plate and flywheel on it then the top end obviously. But the bottom end was sealed and everything.

I guess I'm gonna have to find a leak...

Here's a question. On the top of the carb, there's this... thing... on it. It has a knob on the top of it that you Can turn with a flat head. Way up by the top of the frame and air box. What is that thing? Never seen one before this blaster... may be a stupid question...
 
It has a knob on the top of it that you Can turn with a flat head. Way up by the top of the frame and air box. What is that thing?

idle setting knob thingy :)
cloickwise to increase idle speed
 
:-) ok. So what's the whole thing then? Why not just put the idle set screw on the side of the carb like most other ones?
 
it is the tors brick=throttle over ride system.
i have posted a carb pic about a million times with writing guess you did not see it lol:eek:

what is airscrew set at?
it is possible to mess it up if you dont adjust the idle and airscrew right.
set airscrew at 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated then adjust idle short version.
if you cant see that i will blow it up lol
carb plus idle 1 1 1 big 1.jpg
 
is it a way to govern the throttle? What does it do when it's plugged in? I guess I could look these things up myself....
 
is it a way to govern the throttle? What does it do when it's plugged in? I guess I could look these things up myself....

it monitors the thumb throttle position in relation to the carb slide position, with switches at both locations
if they're mismatched due to a stuck throttle/slide, it kills the ignition to just an idle.
some safety BS yamaha did to try and save their azz from lawsuits
 
Hmm... that's interesting. Has nothing to do with my issues with the stupid thing, but interesting nonetheless...
 
Ok. So some news. I got it all put together tonight. Tried starting it. Started on the third or fourth kick. Awesome. But it didn't stay running.

I have a 300 jet in there (start high). Same needle position, same pilot jet. it NEEDS the choke on to start. No matter if it's warm or not. Then when it gets started, push the choke in, it will bog down. Hit the gas, it hesitates really bad, then will Rev sky Fricken high and won't come back down... why?

Any suggestions would be amazing. I may have forgotten to type some stuff out, so ask any questions you can think of.

I see a leakdown test or a melted piston in your very near future. Way lucky you didn't get a runaway.
 
I know I've seen it before on another thread, but who sells those leak down testers? And how much are they?