2000 Blaster question

Oh man you have been wonderful! That is what I will do then! I think I may start a build thread (or "return to stock") haha.

I already have it torn down. The top end anyways. I haven't touched any of the bottom end yet. I may tackle that tomorrow, or start it....
 
Look what I found!! Didn't even have to crack the crank... main bearing went and that's what was melted on the piston and cylinder. Fun stuff!
 

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youwish0411 said:
Look what I found!! Didn't even have to crack the crank... main bearing went and that's what was melted on the piston and cylinder. Fun stuff!
Click to expand...


this is where I shamelessly qoute myself from page 1 :D.........

Awk08 said:
sounds like shrapnel from a bottom end bearing made it's way into the top end.
check for up/down play of the connecting rod
Click to expand...


you're gonna need these videos:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed.51169/
 
Haha yeah yeah yeah... if I had all the answers I wouldn't have been on here asking for opinions now would i? Haha! All in good fun, that last comment was.

I found two of the races stuck to the crank when I tried to turn it. Those are the only two I've found. I'm not too far into it yet... I'm ready to pull the motor off the bike. Then I will have a better look at it.
 
So now, another question for you guys. I have read both good and bad about the oil deletion on these things. I have all the parts to put it back to oil injected. do I leave it premix or since I'm going to have it all apart, do I put the oil injection back on? I'm aware I probably won't get a straight answer, but I would like opinions on both the good and bad of having it versus premix.

Status update: pulled the engine last night. Found that I have a ton of side to side play in the rod. Not enough to hit the counter weights but pretty darn close. I would say 1/16th of an inchildren in each way... no bueno.

Today I chamfered the ports in the cylinder. That was a first for me. I have to say I think I did pretty well. We will see when it gets put back together though I guess, huh?
 
Let me give you a very straight answer , replace the oil injection!

Bleed the system, keep the tank full and observe cleanliness, hey presto trouble free lubrication!

The only reason to consider pre mix is if you need to run an oil that will not inject or need to run a different oil ratio.

image.jpg
 
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Yeah. That piston was torn up. The play in the rod side to side is pretty bad. Up amd down there isn't any play which tells me the crank brings are ok??? Obviously I'm going to take a look, but I guess that was out of curiosity more than anything.

Ok. Well that was easy. That's for the simple answer. Better than me trying to make a decision.
 
One more question... may be a dumb one... do I need to take the tranny apart to get the crank case apart?
 
youwish0411 said:
One more question... may be a dumb one... do I need to take the tranny apart to get the crank case apart?
Click to expand...

the trans is housed in the cases along with the crank, but seperated by a thin wall inside.
the videos I posted above will show ya all that
 
Well I watched the videos and that still does t really tell me if I NEED to take the tranny apart in order to get the cases apart. KOR did it... but is it absolutely necessary?
 
youwish0411 said:
Well I watched the videos and that still does t really tell me if I NEED to take the tranny apart in order to get the cases apart. KOR did it... but is it absolutely necessary?
Click to expand...


well, you could split the cases gently and possibly have the trans stay in place, but it's not likely.
and it'd be much better to have empty cases to clean out all the shrapel created when the rod bearing let loose.
 
Blaaster said:
The only reason to consider pre mix is if you need to run an oil that will not inject or need to run a different oil ratio.
Click to expand...
Or unless you plan on rolling it or running the tank dry alot. The system must be bled in each of those instances. There are a few people that will tell you not to use it, but most time people have a failure that they blame on injection, it can usually be traced back to operator error. Pretty much all of the well experienced guys here will tell you it will work just fine.
 
Anyone have any tips or tricks to get these nuts off?
 

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stick a folded up shop rag between them to jam them up and the nuts should come off.
some have used a penny, but mine ate it and spit it out the other side, the rag worked better for me.
 
Ok. Well the folded up shop rag didn't work. Those gears just chewed through it like Fricken scissors...
 
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