1100 good for a blaster?

ah... found what I did not do.

did not take out the idle jet... I will work on that this afternoon. and also the choke. didnt take that out. just dropped the bowl, and cleaned in there...

I am out of carb cleaner. gonna go get some of that, and clean up some more stuff... thanks scott.

your bike looks bad ass BTW! since you live no where near me I am gonna steal some ideas from you! ;)
 
ok so. the tors delete is simply the wires going from the throttle lever box being looped back onto themselves? then looping the parking brake wires back to themselves?

not really removing anything right?

I removed the idle adjust screw and spring and it looked good but ran some carb spray through it for the heck of it. same with the choke adjustment.

now before I go cutting wires for the throttle and parking brake I want to make sure I know what I am talking about.

I unplugged the throttle switch below the "hood", and nothing changed. and nothing has changed from cleaning the idle adjust screw and choke.

no sure how the wires leaving the throttle box on the handle bars being looped onto each other will change anything?
 
when those wires are looped it tells the cdi box all is well. when they aren't looped it tells the cdi box that all is not well and to not run. so they have to be looped to work
 
ok, so what the heck.

tors delete is done. wires looped back to the computer. both ends. filter taken out and cleaned.

still runs the same. start and runs fine half choke. but get it to no choke and it just starts to bog down and stalls in seconds. if you play with the choke and do like 1/8th choke to quarter choke it will idle. all the way in it starts to bog. pull it out a hair and it will hold idle...

leaves me thinking its something in the carb still. but not real sure what to go after... I guess I could just take it apart again and clean it again. but I feel like I am gonna start going in circles.

oh, and no matter what I do with the idle screw its 100% the same. heck I even took it out while running and NO change. lol...
 
ok, got the carb spotless. and everything cleaned, and lubed all rubers with some wd40...

then decided to take the tank of and clean it out. well. when I pulled the valve off the bottom the screens for the on and reserve all busted and to be honest are the worst looking things I have seen.

So i went and robbed the tank and stuff off my other blaster. always ran 93 octane. and used stabil (since 93).

took mine apart and mine were all in good condition. put it back together and just put my tank on the new bike. hooked it all up.

WELL, it runs good. it will hold idle now (with some very slight idle screw and tors screw adjustments). I started my air screw at 1.5 turns and tweaked/tuned from there. seems pretty happy. but the idle was just a tad low. it would hold but seem like it was right at the stall point. so I adjusted the tors screw maybe an 1/8th of a turn (if that).

its happy. HOWEVER, it wouldnt run on choke. looked down, and saw a growing gas puddle :( wont stop draining fuel out the over flow.

thats probably why it wont run on choke. its flooded basically, and adding more fuel just drowns it.

crap, so gonna take it apart again. not sure how I messed up the floats so they arent floating. hopefully that is a simple take apart and reseat and put back together and fixed.

My on and off valve doesnt seem to be working now either. I tried to turn the valve to off, but it just wont stop leaking...

I also put a new plug in it...
 
The Fuel petcock can be stuck open and the Float should keep the fuel from over flowing , but your float is for sure stuck , Did you say you were cleaning your Carb with WD40 ?
 
no, I cleaned the carb with carb cleaner. I just like putting a drop of wd40 on the seals when putting things back together. (rubber orings and stuff to make slid in better without tearing)...

got it fixed. dunnno. float was just stuck somehow I guess. took it for a ride. now it sounds like its pinging or detonating or something weird. but it is running good as far as holding idle and all that. maybe I just have it to lean?
 
got a "go pro" vid uploading of a little rid I just took.

just got a 40 dollar emerson hd action cam. mounted it on front bumper. it didnt like the vibrations. BUT, it wont mount to my helmet. gonna have to figure out another mount

moved the idle screw back to the 1.5 turns out from all the way in. seems to be happier there. less pinging I guess (not sure how else to discribe it). I keep hearing like stuff falling off it. sounded like i dropped a wrench or something or something made a weird noise. heck maybe it was. maybe I lost a socket or something. lol.
 
well all the stuff you can adjust doesn't effect anything but idle. when you are riding you are mainly running on the main jet and needle. is it pinging at idle or just when riding it? has a leak test been done on this motor?
 
mudking said:
so I took the carb apart, and cleaned it up. the float needle was stuck in the brass tube that it sits in. so soaked it in some wd40, and then used a small punch and just forced it out (no hammers, just pushing by hand). )...
Click to expand...

Did you damage the rubber tip of the needle.

If fuel is overflowing there are a few things you should look at.

Damaged needle and seat assembly, crap in the seat, varnish build up, spring not on float tang, float filling with fuel, float fouling side of chamber, incorrect float height setting, damaged O ring on seat, pit on tang where needle contacts it.

Lay off the WD40, it is a penetrant/water displacment solution and should never be used as a lubricant, use a dab of 2 stroke oil, perfect for the job in the place where it is designed to be.

While you have the carb off you should now leak test it.



14mqc1y.jpg


With the carb not flooding and the float set to the correct level, proceed to adjust the idle.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS big screw under seat on top of unit. No TORS brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

All should now be good!
 
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