10w40 oil??
- Thread starter Drifz1
- Start date
As long as it is JASO MA rated, it should be fine to run.
The problem would be if it gets very cold where you are. You need to watch out and let it warm up properly to make sure that the oil can circulate around the transmission.
The problem would be if it gets very cold where you are. You need to watch out and let it warm up properly to make sure that the oil can circulate around the transmission.
If you don't mind an erratic clutch, go for it...
The sulphur and phosphorus "friction modifiers" in standard motor oil cause the cork to swell and pack into the friction plates. The clutch begins to drag because it's "out of adjustment" and begins to slip and drag at random intervals. It doesn't happen to all clutches, some are more susceptible than others.
Really? A clutch costs between $30-$60. A quart of motorcycle oil is $4 instead of $2. You'd cheap out on that?
Straight 40 weight is far too thick for the slinging action needed by the transmission. When the temperature drops outside, the oil won't be reaching the bearings in the case on the far side of the transmission. The output shaft bearing would probably be the first to go...
The sulphur and phosphorus "friction modifiers" in standard motor oil cause the cork to swell and pack into the friction plates. The clutch begins to drag because it's "out of adjustment" and begins to slip and drag at random intervals. It doesn't happen to all clutches, some are more susceptible than others.
Really? A clutch costs between $30-$60. A quart of motorcycle oil is $4 instead of $2. You'd cheap out on that?
Straight 40 weight is far too thick for the slinging action needed by the transmission. When the temperature drops outside, the oil won't be reaching the bearings in the case on the far side of the transmission. The output shaft bearing would probably be the first to go...
This is so true! If ya keep using regular oil you'll be on here asking how to rebuild and replace bottom end parts. Not saying you need to use gear saver but at least use the correct oil! Even Type "F" tranny oil is better that regular motor oil.
You do notice his sn includes the words "bustedass" right?
I use transmission fluid exclusively. I try to purchase two quarts at a time of type F whenever I see it available but have used dextron3/mercon whenever type F transmission fluid is not available. Transmission fluid has the wet clutch capacity, the lubricity, and the viscosity needed to run in a transmission gearbox.
Some people swear by belray gear saver and other type of expensive custom fluids. I'm sure they probably do a great job of lubricating the transmission components but in my experience, so has transmission fluid!
I use transmission fluid exclusively. I try to purchase two quarts at a time of type F whenever I see it available but have used dextron3/mercon whenever type F transmission fluid is not available. Transmission fluid has the wet clutch capacity, the lubricity, and the viscosity needed to run in a transmission gearbox.
Some people swear by belray gear saver and other type of expensive custom fluids. I'm sure they probably do a great job of lubricating the transmission components but in my experience, so has transmission fluid!
we should just get a new topic on the forum for oil, so may questions, a lot of them the same...... but, i, and some others on the forum love out HP trans
here goes my $.02 not that it matters. but i used to run valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil with superior wet clutch protection. well it was slipping like a son of a gun so i changed my clutch thinking i needed a new one. i put the valvoline back in and it still slipped. so i went to my local motorcycle shop and got bel ray gear saver 85w and no more slip. i even almost beat a kfx400. i would have but my carb is messed up.
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