02 blaster air leak somwhere
- Thread starter cryptic
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Ok I'll put your payoff in the mail!!! HAAAAHAAAAAA! I:I
I wish Slick had been making them when I built mine. Would have saved a BUNCH of time at the hardware store digging around the plumbing aisle..... and I have a 0-30 psi gauge. It works well as it's segmented down to 1psi but those little lines are tough to see, would be much better if I had a 0-15 psi gauge I:I
This is one of the rare occasions when I'll say this, it's better to buy this from someone else than to build it yourself. Slick's units are..... well.....slick!
This is one of the rare occasions when I'll say this, it's better to buy this from someone else than to build it yourself. Slick's units are..... well.....slick!
It's members like you that help make this forum as great as it is. I love how some members come up with great stuff and are willing to take the time to make and sell to help other members out.
To OP, what do you mean by "everything was cranked down tight making it run rich"? What jet was in it and what did you put in it? How did you determine head was leaking?
Don't be slamming your Pops, think of what he's done for you up to now!! Plus think of all the good times you'll have together!!
Heck, I couldn't even find a gauge that I liked, not that I looked a lot. But wasn't gonna drive all over. Wasn't until I realized I could use my 4s tester from H F that I stopped looking.
Don't be slamming your Pops, think of what he's done for you up to now!! Plus think of all the good times you'll have together!!
Heck, I couldn't even find a gauge that I liked, not that I looked a lot. But wasn't gonna drive all over. Wasn't until I realized I could use my 4s tester from H F that I stopped looking.
i dont know to much about working with carbs all i know is how to jet them with whatever is already in them but the previous owner had the air jet turned in tight. the head was leaking air/ and oil so i fixed the gasket. was hoping that was it but didnt fix the problem now
i went and got the stuff for the tester and btw a fuel pressure gauge that goes to 10 psi works nice but i have everything blocked off (exaust) i did the leak down test and it held at 7 psi for about 4 mins before i got sick of waiting and figured i might be doing somthing wrong and started rotating the engine slowly to see if i got a substancial drop anyway nothing it never came off 7 psi till i pulled it out now what could i be doing wrong any tips i really dont think this engine is this air tight unless there is somthing else that can cause the idle to climb
ok i guess i may have explained it wrong now i have put everything back together after cleaning the carb again... i turn the air screw out 1 3/4 turns to get a nice crisp throttle response but.... if i let it idle sometimes as soon as i push the choke back in the rpms will start to climb but then i pull it partially out it drops back down to normall idle and i push the chock back in and it will take 30 seconds to a min before the idle starts to climb again its never consistant and it never goes past about half throttle as far as rpms go any more explaining plz ask this is driving me a little nuts trying to isolate the problem
Ok before you mess with the air screw turn it back to 1.5 turns out. Then adjust your idle with the idle screw on top of the carb to about 1300-1500rpm! If you have checked the floats and they are in adjustment then proceed if not check them first!
As well as a good throttle response from the air screw- you also want the air screw to give you a clean up and down when you stab it. and the highest idle (not the best way to explain)! after you find that highest idle- should be around 1.5 or 1 3/4 ou. When you stab the throttle and it goes from idle to say 3/4 throttle is should giva a smooth transition back to idle no hanging. Once you have that dialed in, then work on the main, most stock blasters use 230 main. make sure you have the little washer on the main when u install it! do a plug chop to get your main in! once you have your main in , then if the transition from idle and you take off, see at what throttle position you may be having issues with. Then report back.
As well as a good throttle response from the air screw- you also want the air screw to give you a clean up and down when you stab it. and the highest idle (not the best way to explain)! after you find that highest idle- should be around 1.5 or 1 3/4 ou. When you stab the throttle and it goes from idle to say 3/4 throttle is should giva a smooth transition back to idle no hanging. Once you have that dialed in, then work on the main, most stock blasters use 230 main. make sure you have the little washer on the main when u install it! do a plug chop to get your main in! once you have your main in , then if the transition from idle and you take off, see at what throttle position you may be having issues with. Then report back.
as far as the main how do you adjust that and is it the needle. if so again how im used to dirtbikes witch dont have all the crap ontop the carb like this and the needle has 3 little slots for the c clip to slide into
and without doing a plug chop i can tell you that the plug is full of oil you can just make out some white on the insulator. new plug this morning and i havnt riden it just troubleshooting
The main to change it ya put a new one in! Should have a number scribed on the side!
If it's 230 leave it! Is the air filter clean?
If it's 230 leave it! Is the air filter clean?
ok ill look at that tommarrow ya the air filters clean and will being jetted a little off cause it to rev from idle to half throttle while ur standing there going wtf ive had stuff not run or run terrible but never had somthing idle up like this before when i hit the throttle from idle it revs up perfect and drops back down but when i let it sit without touching anything it just starts reving up slow somtimes it will come back down most times it goes up till about half throttle never goes past that tho
HMMM are the reeds good? Cable not binding anywhere? Only other thing I can think of!
fresh gas/oil?
Have you compression tested it, Don't think that would cause a surge in idle,
Have you removed the pilot jet and sprayed the orfice out and the jet out then used compressed air to blow dry? That is the best way to clean a carb not just spray it ouit without removing everything, jets, floats, slide cab also remove the chock and spray all that then use compressed air to blow it all dry, I say it is a carb issue!
fresh gas/oil?
Have you compression tested it, Don't think that would cause a surge in idle,
Have you removed the pilot jet and sprayed the orfice out and the jet out then used compressed air to blow dry? That is the best way to clean a carb not just spray it ouit without removing everything, jets, floats, slide cab also remove the chock and spray all that then use compressed air to blow it all dry, I say it is a carb issue!
i did not take the time to read every post but slickerthanyou is right the first blaster i had did that. it was the pilot was fouled just enough to cause that . get the correct screwdriver one that fits in the hole for the pilot but long enough shaft to give you a little tork and head the right size so you dont bugger it getting it out
and if need be take the whole carb apart so it the body only. get a can at autozone of carb dip leave it in there overnight clean with carb cleaner and air blast it dry if you have no compressor use brake parts cleaner cuz if flashes off fast and leaves it dry
didnt compression test it the only thing in the carb i didnt remove is the inner part of the main didnt know how to get it out and didnt wat to mess it up now i looked tho otherwise everything was sprayed wiped or a peice of welding wire stuck through all surfaces where smoth jet wise all o rings lubed with pettrolium jelly and sprayed with 150 psi of compressed air gas is new its premium 93 octane and the oil is pensoil 2 stroke
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