01 blaster
- Thread starter heatlbj6
- Start date
First, get rid of that dg exhaust. Theyre basically a chrome stock exhaust. But maybe clean your carb?
A DG Pipe isn't like everybody says. Thats EVERYBODY jumping on the "hater band wagon",because they hear someone else say it.
All the negative reviews are from people that don't jet properly and have a poorly running blaster from the get go. That pipe isn't like EVERYBODY "Believes".
All the negative reviews are from people that don't jet properly and have a poorly running blaster from the get go. That pipe isn't like EVERYBODY "Believes".
I have had issues like this too, and i found for me, it was to run with the air box lid on, you might try a even bigger main jet, those that seem to run without the air box lid, seem to run closer to a 290 to 300 main jet.
Sporty
Best bet would be to Research It on here , Same with a Leak Down Test , If your motor is Sucking or Leaking air it will cause it to Not Start Properly , Not run Properly and Also Fail Or Blow Up Prematurely , If you Want your Blasty to Last Plug Chops and Leak Down Tests Are Your Best Friends , The Plug chop tells you if you need to Go Up or Down on main Jet , You might also want to Read up on Jetting if your Not Familiar , Also Sea Level and Elevation are a Key factor in Jetting !
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
You can Also do the Plug chop with a New plug and not have to cut it , I did it Recently on my Blasty , I was In a Hurry and did not want to Cut the Threads as it was My last Plug , As Long as you have a Flash light you Should be able to see the Ring color , Mine was a Perfect Cardboard Color So I Put the Plug back in And Am Still using it !
If the smoke ring is low down on the insulator, it could be possible to see it, but if it is way up inside like the one on the bottom pic I posted, I don't like your chance of reading it correctly.
Incandescent flashlight gobes could also interfere withe the colour hue.
Incandescent flashlight gobes could also interfere withe the colour hue.
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