I recently bought a RUNNING 01 Yamaha Blaster. My friend (the previous owner) converted it to a gas/oil mix engine and bored it out to 265cc. It was working okay but would occasionally die. My uncle was excited, took it out on my yard popping wheelies and it died on him. We both noted it sounded like it was running out of gas, but we go to check the spark plug and we aren't getting a spark. I get a new one and we check the stator, cdi unit, and ignition coil, finding nothing coming out of the coil. I got a new coil yesterday and saw a beautiful blue spark. I put everything back together and go to start it. Now everytime I go to start it after about 6 kicks with tapping the throttle halfway through the kick for about two kick the engine completely turns over and begins to rev and sounds like its starting but dies after a second. So next I go to the carb, I didnt wanna take it apart yet so I'm going to grab a new plug tommorrow since I may have fouled it. But I go to adjust the air jet I can access right on the outside of the carb and curiously its closed completely. I'm going to adjust the main jet tommorrow but I could use some thoughts about what exactly is going on, mind you I'm knew to this and just joined the forum, still learning.
01 Blaster Spark but no start
- Thread starter ineedanapnow
- Start date
Also adjusting the air jet one half turn at a time up to 3 half turns made no difference. I'll appreciate any help I get!
(converted it to a gas/oil mix engine and bored it out to 265cc)
Wow! I think you have a lot of reading up on here to do.
Wow! I think you have a lot of reading up on here to do.
^^^^ what he said. Your bike was not bored out to a 265 unless you have an old trinity kit. You can't bore a cylinder out to that. The fact that the air screw was all the way closed and it was pulling wheelies screams air leak to me. You really need to leak test the motor. Member AWK08 sells leak testers for cheap. I'm not going to make anymore recommendations until you know the motor is air tight. That's the FIRST thing you have to do before troubleshooting. As long as you get the motor air tight and and give us all the info you will be able to get help and get it running like a champ.
Am I right in looking at the main jet next? I'm thinking what's going into the engine is too rich.
The air leak may actually just make sense, I just went to put it back in the garage and its leaking small amounts of gasoline on the driveway. The screws holding the engine block together on the kick start side towards the bottom are sticky and wet from gasoline. Although I have not noticed it doing this before.
That sounds like a float level problem in the carb. Listen to this next sentence. LEAK TEST THE MOTOR BEFORE YOU BLOW IT UP! If the air screw was all the way closed and it most likely has an air leak. That is the main killer of these engines. Once you get an air tight motor then you can move on to the next step. The next step is a compression test. You HAVE TO DO THESE TESTS.
Well then it's probably gear oil. That won't stop it from starting though. Use the search key and do some research on air leaks.
Well thanks alot guys and to the compression test response I did I makeshift one, finger tight over the whole in the engine for the spark plug and it pops my finger off just a bit. But I'm assuming it would be best to use a test kit
You can't be serious?????????? Your finger has no way of telling the difference between 80psi and 125psi. Please do a leak test and compression test and report back. We will be able to further help with the results from the tests. In the meantime I would do a LOT of reading on here so you can become familiar with your bike. Might sound harsh, but I don't want you to seize the motor.
But either way like you said I'll go for the air leak test first. I'll read up on it, and sorry if I sound like a jackass, I'm pretty much learning as I go and from trial and error.
You don't sound like a jackass. You would be a jackass if you tied a rope to a truck, pop started it, and then locked the motor up. You are on the right track. After you leak and compression test we can get into your mods, carb, and jetting.
oh yeah and by the way you can build your own leak down tester with parts from the hardware store
I'll run to home depot before hitting the gym in the morning and run the test. Ill let you guys know the results, and again I really appreciate the help.
I'll add to this. Leak test first then report back .. This forum will get you going.. and welcome... oil driping is crank seal likely. Can you tell us where oil is leaking from? Clutch side, stator/flywheel side? Or simply put rear brake pedal side, or shifter side?? , this will also help with leak testing on where to look for one if not a few leaks if your dripping oil.. I know i know it sounds allot but its really not. In an afternoon you can probably fix most common leaks. Than after you fix them then a few more things to do, so when you do that we can go from there, but its so nice to know your all good to go when you "GO" and not stress.. also check that your woodruf key hasn't broke. The little key way that's on flywheel side. Sometimes they break and f up timing.. you will get spark but not at right time..
