great thanks .................
Quadrider10
Member 27 From New Jersey
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i know you probly get sick of answering this but are you running stub spacers or like durablue spacers.?... i would like to run the stud spacers cause i can do two hubs for 23.00.... also i woods ride i think they would be fine seeing the air you get while running yours but im not sure on exactly what you are running
thats how there was 150+ votes
i messaged everyone in my freinds list, and more, and wrote "please vote responsibly" with the link to the poll
want me to do that to botm next month ? LOL
no problem..........
no, i would need a toyota corrolla to do that. or some exact measurements. and for what it would cost to custom fab you would probably be better off just buying one.
wanna race sometime this year ???How's it going manYou want pics of the itps?
i edited my last post in the rav4 thread, measuring to scale in that pic, it looks to be about 32" high, i'll confirm that tomorrow and text it to you
pm'n it now .
if you can, text me sometime during the day to remind me, you know i'm half senile already, LOL
i will get them when i'm down there tomorrow
no a arms anymore, not worth it. swingarms, yesNice Avatar Bro !Fast motor, 3rd gear start and a guy that knows how to ride!!!!
Holy cow, you get into 5th and 6th gear on the track? Ive never once in my life hit 5th gear on any motocross track on my banshee, old 250R or 450.
Blasters must be geared tight in the tranny. Your initial gearing estimate may be an OK place to start, at 14/38. But, even with your motor work that much of a gearing change is going to take a toll on your power. I would definitely ride it with your current gearing so you know exactly how much the motor work helped, then go from there. Every time you go to the track I would take several sprockets so you can change them out after practice if you need to.
One thing is for sure. Riding a track from 2nd-6th gear slows you down a LOT. You need to cut out 6th gear for sure, and preferrably 5th also. But like I said, blasters must be geared pretty tight if you are starting in 2nd and making it to 6th before the first turn so you might not be able to eliminate 6th AND 5th.
You may want to run a slightly higher gearing with extra bottom end from your motor work. However, keep in mind that the best gearing is the combo that makes you do the least work (shifting gears). Your bike is going to be just as fast as it was before, but you will have more power. So, if you could run a track 10% of the time in 2nd, 70% of the time in 3rd and 20% of the time in 4th then you might be able to keep the same gearing and run 70% of the time in 3rd and 30% in 4th, then you can eliminate shifting into 2nd in the tight turns.
Going from 13/40 to 14/38 will be a big difference. I wouldnt go quit that much if you want to try higher gearing. Id try 13/38 or 14/40 first and go 1 rear sprocket tooth at a time from there. Three teeth on the rear sprocket is about equal to one on the front.
The track is going to be the biggest factor in your gearing, not your motor, but the motor obviously plays a role in your gearing. Make sense?
i race all around pa new jersey and maryland. hurrican hills,rocket raceway,wildwood,sleepy hollow,raceway park,flying dutchmen,doublin gap,ramblers -
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