YZF600 engine stuffed into a 90 blaster

I've still got an airbox to go on the carbs. With the airbox on the bars hit it about 2/3 full turn. I may need to come up with my own airbox, can't really use pods as I want to take this in the muddy trails.

Yes, the bike uses a fuel pump so I can put the tank anywhere.
 
I was just looking at the first page, and i was baffled with the angle of the carbs. never noticed that they could sit in such angle and still work properly:eek:(floats)
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They're called down-draft, almost all modern streetbike engines use them actually. They use a different float setup (though same principle) than a typical carb.
 
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Other side tube done.

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Probably going to have to make a custom fuel tank (about 2 gallons) that either goes behind the engine but would interfere with some reinforcing I want to do to the frame or go under the seat but I don't think will look as nice. Still thinking.

Threw some of the plastics on just for fun. I'll be making a fiberglass cover for the airbox to take the place of where the old tank was and to fit my new top frame tubes to blend the seat into the front plastic. Don't want this to look all too ghetto :p


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That's gonna be one bad ass bike, should have unbelievable power, especially when it's geared for around 100 or 120mph.
Any lower gearing than that and I think it would be super hard to hold down, not that easy to ride made the consideration list when you decided to shove a 600 I-4 in a blaster.
 
Tire size on this bike is a bit smaller than a motorcycle though so i'll still be able to go through the gears a little. Atleast 2nd. Maybe 3rd.

Or I'll just say f*ck it and burn the tires off the whole way.

If it decides to hook up, might have to invent a new term, won't be 12 o' clocking it, it will be 3 am flat might 24 hour it (back flip) off a ramp.

A buddy of mine built a odyssey sized buggy, had like 22's in the rear and a Rotax 500 sled motor, belt and clutches running to a live axle via a chain. Thanks to the roll cage you could come off a tall lip on the throttle and get it to flip on over back onto it's wheels.
He could do it anyway, seen more than one person try it and end up on their top with a nasty jolt. It was pretty wicked.
 
Well the bike is over 8" longer than stock so that will help. I honestly doubt that I will ever take this thing that fast. I have a CBR track bike and the track is only 15 minutes from my house so I get my speed fix there.

Sounds like a cool buggy, any vids?

Got the engine mounts finished. Had to make all the one side removable since the motor has to go in and out from the side, not top or bottom. If I have room after fitting the exhaust I may add another front mount in the middle to help bear some of the weight since I'm not liking the angles the front mounts had to go at. Rather be safe than sorry.

Only got pictures of the front one.

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Yeah an extra 8 inches and the weight of the motor will surely even things out , I was just trying to be funny, no doubt it will have the power to throw you for a loop tho.

The cart was a mid-rear engined thing, my buddies dad owns a ship building permissible cars (fancy golf cart W/ fully airtight electRical systems) to go underground into the mines. That was about 20 years ago tho. My buddy owns the shop now , if I had it to over again I would have spend my days there working, by now I could have my own business or specialty in his shop. I always loved racing, there was nothing sanctioned nearby , but a lot of wicked machines were built on the weekends from ATVs to ful, trail trucks, road race cars for local twisty roads?.........those were the days.

Anyhow, enough reminiscing,

Those mounts are pretty slick, and I agree it never hurts to have an extra mount here or there. When I pulled my motor the bolt for the mount in front and below the big swingarm mount was completely missing and had been since before I got it.

What size tire and what sort of gearing did the done bike have?
What tires and gearing do you plan to run?
Depending or where you will ride it, might not hurt to go with radials with some sort of Enduro tread.
Any idea of what your bike will weigh ready to ride?

These are all the questions that's got my mind going, especially since you are nearing the home stretch.

Later
Deebee
 
What size tire and what sort of gearing did the done bike have?
What tires and gearing do you plan to run?
Depending or where you will ride it, might not hurt to go with radials with some sort of Enduro tread.
Any idea of what your bike will weigh ready to ride?

These are all the questions that's got my mind going, especially since you are nearing the home stretch.

Later
Deebee

The rear tire on a stock FZR would probably have been a 130/70/18 (it had a very narrow rear tire for a bike like that) and 46t rear sprocket.

The rear tires on this blaster are 20 or 22 x11x8, I can't remember and the stock sprocket so whatever tooth count that is. I'll run it as-is for now and see how it goes.

Not sure what it will weigh after, not too worried about it, it is what it is.


However, thinking about doing a simple draw-through turbo setup and running only a few psi... still thinking but I'm at the exhaust part of this so I need to make up my mind.
 
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Found some info on the FZR600 http://heath.agdog.com/fzr/specifications/

The rear tire on a stock FZR would probably have been a 130/70/18 (it had a very narrow rear tire for a bike like that) and 46t rear sprocket.

The rear tires on this blaster are 20 or 22 x11x8, I can't remember and the stock sprocket so whatever tooth count that is. I'll run it as-is for now and see how it goes.
Figured it up and the 600 motor will put out about double the rpm at the front sprocket. 5796
If you were to run 12/42 gearing then you would top out at 103.56mph with tires measured at 21 inches tall
The 600 makes 76 hp at 10,500 rpm and 45 ft/lb of torque at 8250
Has a dry weight of 395 pounds

I was wrong o the rpm below as the fzr turns 11k rpm Peak calculations above are correct tho

Peak rpm for the fzr is say 12,000 primary reduction is 82/48 (1.708)
12,000 / 1.708 gives us 7025 rpm 6th gear is 1.1111 7025/1.11111 6322
The FZR motor puts out 6322 rpm at the sprocket l6th gear redline

For the Blaaster
8500 rpm / 3.227 or 2634 rpm at the sprocket (for 1:1 5th is 1.056) 6th .905 2634/.905
A stock blaster puts out about 2384 rpm at the sprocker 6th gear wide open
6322 sprocket rpm for the FZR600 motor
2910 sprocket rpm stock blaster

The 600 motor puts out more than double the rpm at the sprocket
Let's say you put 12/42 sprockets on the blaster wich should be easy enough to get
6322 rpm x12t /42t is 1806 rpm at the rear wheel x 66 inches (distance a 21 inch tires moves per turn) is 119196 inches/minute convert to MPH 112.85 or 113 mph


103.5 mpg at 11.000 on a 4cyl ATv
And 76 horsepower to play with
Siiiiiiiick
Good news in 6th gear cruising at 6k rpm you will be doing 56mph
At 56mph you can drop to 4th and unleash nearly 76 hp, which I am sure will lead to one quick power wheely.
I would consider getting the roughest radial tires I could get, to stand up to high speeds and still have good traction on the trail
Might want to put a short wheely bar with a 10x6-6 tire on it mount it in place of or on the grab bar have it catch you at about 1 o' clock
 
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So I need some front brake lines. The bike never came with them so I can't measure the length to get some made.

Does anyone happen to know the length for +3 a-arms? I won't be using a splitter block, they'll be 2 individual lines running from master to each caliper.

I need to know the length of them to get them made up. I can get them made much cheaper locally here than getting them online after shipping to Canada. If no one knows off hand I'll have to wait and measure the bike when I can. Thanks.
 
I will be happy to measure the length of my cables from the lever to the spltter and from the splitter to each side and add up the length, of course then +3 inches for the extended arms.

I measure 51 inches of casing length to each wheel counting the splitter length. Adding +3 to each, this is if you tie the lines just below the upper steering stem mount then route down the back half of the top a-arm, give you 54" or four and a half feet.
Ideally you would want to use as little rubber line and as much steel line as possible, or at least use line with a braided steel casing to help control line expansion and firm up the feel of the brake lever. But that is a minor detail at best.
Enjoy DeeBeee
 
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Thanks a lot.

I'll be getting stainless braided hose made up, no sense in using the rubber ones.
 
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It would include the banjos on a hydraulic system that is routed the same way as far as length is concerned.
I actually have cable brakes and measured to where the cable casing ends (which is where the banjos bolt up on a hydro system),

had I measured the length of the actual inside cable where it extends into the brake lever and the part that sticks out on the other end to actaute the arm, would have added about 4-6 inches.

You might want to add an inch each side to 55 just to be safe but by the service manuals the hose routing is the same, with the exception of where the splitter block is, which has no effect on the total length of each side.