worth my gaskets..

[Little-J]

I was wondering what you thought..

I have a reed spacer that I installed with a PJ34 along with some other mods.

I have it on the inside of the reed block and was thinking of moving it to the outside to try n get some of my engines pipeyness back.

I.E... Ive increased the crankcase volume by adding the spacer which will mellow out the power curve a bit, But I want to unmellow it now. Is it worth using gaskets to try moving it to the outside or do you think it wont make any considerable difference?

 

[royalt67]

Honestly never played with a spacer, but most recommendations I have seen are to be on the inside like you have it. Gaskets are cheap and reed gaskets are often reusable. Why don't you try it and report back to us?

On the otherhand, what do you mean get back the pipeyness? Are you not happy now that you put on the PJ34? THAT, I HAVE EXPERIENCE WITH. For a good read, check out my "Another PJ34 jetting thread" as I pull my hair out.

I'm pretty happy with it now tho. What is your jetting? I would bet on that being the source of your loss before worrying about the spacer.

 

[Little-J]

well, dont get me wrong.. It pulls well, pretty much everywhere. But ive added some worm ports, modified my exhaust flange a bit, and added the spacer, and unfortunately a pretty much stock head. Im not done with my good one yet lol.. The hit has been smoothed a bit, maybe im just looking for some hit back now that the mid range has beefed up..

i think Im running either a 155 or 160 main, a 45 or 50 slow, and I cant remember which needle cuz I had sourced a few, but I think its the stock TRX 250 needle.?.

Maybe I'll wait till I have my other head on before I fiddle too much lol...

 

[royalt67]

Well, I was amazed how much of a difference in torque there was between a 50 and the 40 pilot that I have now. Going down seemed counter-intuitive, more is better, right? LOL.

You might want to try a smaller pilot. It made the difference between "going well" and "going like hell."

 

[Little-J]

Yeah, um.. I had a smaller pilot and it did seem to go like hell.. sort of.. it was a mistake to hit the gas on a gravel road when rolling in fourth.. Because it revved and hit the powerband so fast that I had trouble steering it lol..it has stock length swingarm and whips around..

BUT it wouldnt idle.. is that not a sign of a "too small" slow jet? Maybe i need to leave the pilot so it idles and put in a needle which is leaner near the base?

I went down in main jet from a 160 to the 155 n it got smother and fuller in the midrange, maybe ill just go back up to the 160.. better a tad rich on the main anyway..

 

[bagds101]

i have messed around with those reed spacers and i think mine actually robbed me of power. i dont recommend using reed spacers at all unless you have an almost stock engine. i have the mods in my sig and i tried the spacer in between the reeds and jug and also in between the reeds and boot. either way i think it robbed me. search it. there is alot of thread about it

 

[phragle]

\Gaskets are cheap and reed gaskets are often reusable. .

Is reusing a $2.00 reed gasket worth the price of a top end?

 

[royalt67]

Is reusing a $2.00 reed gasket worth the price of a top end?

Ouch, phragle! Like I said gaskets are cheap.

 

[royalt67]

BUT it wouldnt idle.. is that not a sign of a "too small" slow jet? Maybe i need to leave the pilot so it idles and put in a needle which is leaner near the base?

I had the hardest time with the idle. On a PJ tho, the pilot has a lot less (almost none) to do with the idle than on a PWK, for example, since the slide is fully closed. It's idle circuit is fed by a separate passage from the pilot, which only feeds off-idle. I found that the float level is critical though, if it isn't set correctly (too low) it will not pull adequate fuel into the idle circuit. Some people compensate for this by tightening the cable and opening the slide as if it had an idle screw instead of the idle/choke knob combo. Mine was off a significant amount (3rd-hand carb) and after I set it it idled well no matter what pilot I tried.

 

[Awk08]

so instead of making us search royal, remind us what your final settings are, pilot, needle, main ???

 

[royalt67]

They are in my sig. Final jetting 40, 170, DGH needle on 3rd groove, 1/2 turn out on air screw. The 170 might be a little on the high side, but my porting seems happy with it.

Float setting is 16mm with the float just touching, not depressing, the spring loaded pin.

If you ever want to read that thread......put some time aside.....some rambling but also some good stuff....
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/another-pj34-jetting-thread-29290/

 

[Little-J]

I had the hardest time with the idle. On a PJ tho, the pilot has a lot less (almost none) to do with the idle than on a PWK, for example, since the slide is fully closed. It's idle circuit is fed by a separate passage from the pilot, which only feeds off-idle. I found that the float level is critical though, if it isn't set correctly (too low) it will not pull adequate fuel into the idle circuit. Some people compensate for this by tightening the cable and opening the slide as if it had an idle screw instead of the idle/choke knob combo. Mine was off a significant amount (3rd-hand carb) and after I set it it idled well no matter what pilot I tried.

I got my PJ brand spankin new from a dealership. New old stock for a TRX250R.. it was in a plastic bag oiled up to prevent corrosion.. but do u think the float level would be that off? when you say 16 or 18 mm float level you mean 16 mm below the line where the bowl joins the main carb body?
Ive never checked where it is factory level..