I'm getting spark got good gas new plug it fires but wont stay runnin. Any ideas on what its problem is?
wont stay runnin! why?
- Thread starter dblblstr
- Start date
Need a little more info please.. Was it running fine and all of a sudden this happened, bad noises, fresh gas, fresh plug, good "blue" spark, float height correct, dies when you hit the throttle, clean unclogged intake/exhaust, parking brake still there, TORS,, etc.. Any and all info will help..
Have you cleaned the carb recently?
Also welcome to the forum..
Have you cleaned the carb recently?
Also welcome to the forum..
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Did this happen suddenly or have you been making adjustments?
Is it flooding?
When was the last time it was tested for air leaks?
Is it flooding?
When was the last time it was tested for air leaks?
Well I just bought It. It sat for a couple yrs. So I put new gas and cleanes the carb. It runs when we pull started it but it dont seem to react when I give it gas. I didnt check the reeds yet. But it has all the essentials. Has spark gettin gas. Havent check the compression yet. Tried starting fluid. Idk
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NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!! Don't use starting fluid !!! Not in a 2 stroke..
If you just got it and it has ben sitting it could be a few things.. You should surely leak test along with a compression test. Pull the carb again and check the reeds, Clean the carb good again and check float height. While you are in there make note of what your jetting is. when you say good fuel flow are you cracking the screw on the bottom of the bowl to see how flow is or do you mean its flowing good from the tank to the carb? does it still have the parking brake and the Tors system? Is the air filter clean? No nests or anything in intake plenum? when things sit for a while critters build nests everywhere..
If you just got it and it has ben sitting it could be a few things.. You should surely leak test along with a compression test. Pull the carb again and check the reeds, Clean the carb good again and check float height. While you are in there make note of what your jetting is. when you say good fuel flow are you cracking the screw on the bottom of the bowl to see how flow is or do you mean its flowing good from the tank to the carb? does it still have the parking brake and the Tors system? Is the air filter clean? No nests or anything in intake plenum? when things sit for a while critters build nests everywhere..
Most times, when bikes sit up for a while, it's because someone got tired of fooling with all of it.
How long after you start it does it die? Does it just go dead on its own or is it with gas? After 5 seconds or 10 minutes? Answers come with details.
I'd do a compression test on it asap just so you know what you have. Also, clean the tank out. Check connections and resistance of your coil and stator. Get a box of new plugs. Clean the carb. These are mandatory things with any newly purchased bike.
How long after you start it does it die? Does it just go dead on its own or is it with gas? After 5 seconds or 10 minutes? Answers come with details.
I'd do a compression test on it asap just so you know what you have. Also, clean the tank out. Check connections and resistance of your coil and stator. Get a box of new plugs. Clean the carb. These are mandatory things with any newly purchased bike.
When you cleaned the carb did you take out the main and pilot jets and make sure they were clean and open? The needle seat might have crap in it too. Set the air screw 1.5 turns out from slightly seated?
Read this thread, it might help ya.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-carbureutor.254/
Read this thread, it might help ya.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-carbureutor.254/
Well I shoulda dug a lil deeper when I had the carb off cuz I decided to check the reeds n sure ass sh*t one was broken. Luckly I have another blaster so I took the reeds outta that one n it fired first kuck all itwants to do is wheelies lol. That solves the issue with my blue one but the red one ran decent when I got it but the power band isnt kickin in so its lacking power but it ran n idled fine. Notice I said ran. After ridin it for the weekend I went to put it up n it died n wont fire back up. Im gonna try a new pkug tomorrow n hope that is the problem. But I dont get the loss of power
Replacing the plug rarely does anything to fix the problem. If it's wet, you're running rich for some reason. Spray the plug off with carb cleaner, sand a little between the tip and electrode, spray again, blow it out, and close your gap to about .030" (3/4mm). With the plug out and the carb off, kick it over a good 30-40 times or more. Put the plug back in and run it for a minute and then pull the plug.
If it's still wet, you know that it wasn't getting wet because of a buildup of residual gas and oil in the crankcase.
If it's revving fine and just hits a wall and won't make much power, it's likely lean, which could be caused by an air leak between the carb and chamber (carb boot, reed on either side, cylinder base). OR, it could just be jetted lean. In this case, a new plug isn't going to do any good unless you have a substantial amount of buildup on the plug or the electrode is melted (very bad).
Did you figure out what jets were in it? Also, that jet size is useless without a list of mods.
Another thing to check would be the wiring from the stator and coil. I just worked on a 250R with a stator wire that was held on by a single strand in a 33 strand wire (rats). It wouldn't idle very well, but pulled okay other than occasional bogging and falling on it's face, all with a brand new carb. Fixed that and it opened up very well.
Also just worked on a TTR125 that would idle, but had no power whatsoever. The main jet was clogged almost completely and the float valve had so much buildup around it that it was actually built up to a contour of the valve inside the seat. Movement of the floats did very, very little until they dropped almost completely to the bottom of the bowl, which allowed the valve to slide out of the built up grime and then poured gas (which is what allowed it to run at all.
Fixed a Banshee some time back that would run like a bat out of hell for a minute, then bog and die completely. No amount of kicking it over would work within 1-2 minutes after dying. Jets were fine, plug was dry, reeds were fine, carbs were cleaned obsessively, stator and coil were well within spec and connections were perfect, compression was fine, had no air leaks, nothing. After removing the gas cap while it was idling to add some gas, it kept running with no problem. The problem was that there was dirt and buildup from dirt daubers in the vent line. We took the vent line off and ran it for 10-15 minutes without a hitch. Problem solved.
Point is, you have to go over quite a few more things with a machine that's sat up for any extended period of time. Remember, we need that jet size and a list of mods.
If it's still wet, you know that it wasn't getting wet because of a buildup of residual gas and oil in the crankcase.
If it's revving fine and just hits a wall and won't make much power, it's likely lean, which could be caused by an air leak between the carb and chamber (carb boot, reed on either side, cylinder base). OR, it could just be jetted lean. In this case, a new plug isn't going to do any good unless you have a substantial amount of buildup on the plug or the electrode is melted (very bad).
Did you figure out what jets were in it? Also, that jet size is useless without a list of mods.
Another thing to check would be the wiring from the stator and coil. I just worked on a 250R with a stator wire that was held on by a single strand in a 33 strand wire (rats). It wouldn't idle very well, but pulled okay other than occasional bogging and falling on it's face, all with a brand new carb. Fixed that and it opened up very well.
Also just worked on a TTR125 that would idle, but had no power whatsoever. The main jet was clogged almost completely and the float valve had so much buildup around it that it was actually built up to a contour of the valve inside the seat. Movement of the floats did very, very little until they dropped almost completely to the bottom of the bowl, which allowed the valve to slide out of the built up grime and then poured gas (which is what allowed it to run at all.
Fixed a Banshee some time back that would run like a bat out of hell for a minute, then bog and die completely. No amount of kicking it over would work within 1-2 minutes after dying. Jets were fine, plug was dry, reeds were fine, carbs were cleaned obsessively, stator and coil were well within spec and connections were perfect, compression was fine, had no air leaks, nothing. After removing the gas cap while it was idling to add some gas, it kept running with no problem. The problem was that there was dirt and buildup from dirt daubers in the vent line. We took the vent line off and ran it for 10-15 minutes without a hitch. Problem solved.
Point is, you have to go over quite a few more things with a machine that's sat up for any extended period of time. Remember, we need that jet size and a list of mods.
if it was running and had no power ,,you need to do a compression test...soak jets in carb cleaner,not just spray them it wont work.
Ok thanks for everyones input. I got em both runnin now. I still got a problem with one not hitting the powerband. It just dont seem to be as fast as it should. Now what I need to know is there a different adjustment for the carb if I got fmf gold pipes on it. This is for my other blaster. Its fast but seems to lose power when it warmed up. And how do I eliminate the tors syster. What ut do exactly? And can I eliminate the throttle sensor. I dont get what the purpose is of a switch on the throttle and whatever the tors sys. Is. I didnt think id need a haynes for a quad. Lol N HOW CAN I FIND OUT EXACTLY WHAT YEAR ITS IS?
For the FMF the size of the main jet needs increasing to allow more fuel to be added to the air that the pipe demands.
Check your jets and get back with your mods for a ballpark figure.
TORS is designed to stop run away throttle if something goes wrong, the the sensor is a part of the system.
It is a good idea to remove the TORS, it causes nothing but trouble.
The VIN will tell you the year, Speedy knows the details PM him.
With all the messing with reeds and stuff are you leak testing after each assembly?
Check your jets and get back with your mods for a ballpark figure.
TORS is designed to stop run away throttle if something goes wrong, the the sensor is a part of the system.
It is a good idea to remove the TORS, it causes nothing but trouble.
The VIN will tell you the year, Speedy knows the details PM him.
With all the messing with reeds and stuff are you leak testing after each assembly?
tenth digit on frame by foot shifter is the year if it is a 6 then its a 2006 model,and if you think your lacking power then your carb is adjusted wrong,or you dont have enough compression,or clogged air filter exhaust ect.
Could that not mean also a 1996 ?tenth digit on frame by foot shifter is the year if it is a 6 then its a 2006 model,and if you think your lacking power then your carb is adjusted wrong,or you dont have enough compression,or clogged air filter exhaust ect.
yeah..i think i just read somewhere if there was a R in front of it then it was from the 1990 or something.It been talked about in other threads and google searches.I guess yamaha wanted to confuse use by not putting a sticker on the bikes like most others,I guess you just got to look at things like disc brakes redesigned headlight,is there a spot for the disc brake line on frame,4 or 5 wire stator and the different tors setup, ect.Also dont mean people did not switch parts out,It might be better explained in the other thread if i can find it or if someone else could find it.....good point Blaaster..
here is someone elses input
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-find-out-what-year-yours-is.2418/
here is someone elses input
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-find-out-what-year-yours-is.2418/
lol yeah,I wrote on it to bring it up the page a little,anyone reading this a easy way to find threads is to type it in your internet browser and search,then look for the blasterforum links,which also has been mention before?
Google is your friend, I wish others would use it more often, it is the best thing since sliced bread!
But on a lighter note, if I had nothing to do BF would stop my salary.
But on a lighter note, if I had nothing to do BF would stop my salary.
