Wont start after rolled over

Jul 13, 2011
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I have a 02 completely stock. This labor day weekend we took 4 machines up to northern wisconsin to do some serious trail riding. My buddy Jonny came up and he rode the blaster one day. He hit a puddle and went sideways and rolled the bike twice and it landed back on its wheels. We took a short break and pressed on. Ten minutes later it dies and won't restart. It even sounds different kicking it over. It didn't feel like it free wheeled when you kicked it. We towed it and he poped the clutch and it would restart but wouldn't do anything when he pressed on the throttle. So we had to tow it to the next town and come back from him.
Any ideas to what happen? I know that the oil pump looses prime if the machine goes up side down. Will it with a quick roll over? I haven't had a chance to look at it yet.
What is the compression spec it should be at?
 
rolled my stock '96 plenty of times back in the day, never had this problem
i'm gonna guess it's got water in it somewhere, drain carb, clean filter, fresh plug, dry plug cap
if that fails, try to keep towing it in gear to clear the crankcase of any water
 
check for water first, then id look at the reeds, totally unrelated to rolling the bike but stranger things have happened, the symptoms point to them IMO. perhaps even TORS ( does it sound like a low rom limiter when you try rev it? if so, its the tors) i was thinking perhaps the park brake switch on the bars got messed up causing tors problems but its an 02, so it doesnt have that system.
 
The tors on this bike doesn't work. You can pull the plug on it and it still runs.
How do you check the reeds?
 
Also it is possible that the roll over might have messed something up in the carb. Like dirt or float got bent or clip on the needle moved or fell off ( this happened to me after a roll over!) I agree with the other guys too check reeds , coil , ground
 
Ok, I just took a look at it. First I did a spark check. It has spark w/ the spark tester. Pulled the air box cover off and there is no water in it however there is straight 2 cycle oil sitting in the bottom. The filter looks ok. I pulled the carb and there was some dirt in the bowl and the idle jet was partially clogged. I pulled the reed cage and that looks ok. I pulled the plug and the ground electrode end is smashed to the the primary electrode. How did this happen? Too hot?
 
No it is not. So have to pull the motor out and tear it down to collect the debris. One of the skirts broke right off. The rings are melted into the piston on one side.
There are three things that contributed to this possibly.
One: We put gas of an unknown octane to 1/2 full and then the other with 93. I haven't found out what my friend had in his can yet.
Two: After it getting rolled twice the oil pump lost its prime.
Three: The guy ridding it weighs about 320 pds.
He is going to pay for the damages, so now I want to mod it some to give it a little more but I don't want to drop hundreds.
No one will give me a spec on how much to mill the head, so that probably a risky move.
If stock compression is 6.6:1 and it requires 93 octane. One has to run a mix of race fuel then.
If I go with a big bore kit. I pretty much have to run a bigger carb right? And a pipe wouldn't hurt. But thats more $$
 
it's also possible the rush of cold water hitting that very hot cylinder (from hauling 320lbs around) will bust a piston skirt
seen it happen before to slickerthnyou's cylinder
 
So Ken. What would it run from you a big bore cylinder, piston and everything else I need. I would assume you would want mine to do the work on. Or do you have a core exchange.
Can I eliminate the carb switch when I go to a 36m carb? I'm not sure what the carb switch is for. What is its purpose?
Can one use a warrior carb with no carb switch?