Why We Leak Test

Braaaptor

Member
Dec 1, 2009
2,169
115
48
Hamlet, NC
To anybody who is curious as to why we stress doing a leakdown test on your engine, here's all the reason you'll ever need:

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I'm an experienced mechanic who has been working on engines for years. However, I'm also very human and I DO make mistakes, especially when I get in a hurry. I'll be the first to say that this leak was my fault. I should have used a better method of installing this crank seal when I rebuilt my engine last year, but I rushed it. The seal wasn't driven in squarely, and I eventually paid the price.

Fortunately, it lasted awhile before a leak developed. But the last time I took the Blaster out, it was running "funny" as many might say. Down on power, hanging idle... I took it easy getting back to the truck and trailered the Blaster home half a day earlier than intended. Once home, I pulled out the trusty leak tester and went to work. I kinda suspected a leaky flywheel side crank seal (The Blaster isn't burning any tranny lube and I used an OEM base and head gasket during reassembly), but its nice to see bubbles as confirmation. After I install a new seal, I'll re-test just to be sure its still airtight. And if anybody is wondering, this engine passed a leakdown test right after I got done building it, but the crankshaft wore down the crooked seal just enough over a season of riding to cause a leak.

How's this for a strange way to detect a leaky crank seal?! If only the crankshaft seal was as airtight as this stator cover gasket, we wouldn't be having this problem! Haha.

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The moral here is to do an annual leakdown test on your engine, and test more often if you suspect a problem. And, please, DO NOT keep on riding if something suddenly seems "off". Chances are, there is a legitimate problem brewing. BTW, I saved this top end. No scuffing, scoring, or burnt oil is present. Already did a comp test and had the pipe off for an inspection. Safely rich jetting, good oil, and careful riding once the problem developed means my piston lives to rip another day. B)
 
Braaap, this is just the thing that we need on this excellent forum.

Thanks for your input.

I think I have a bit of green up my sleeve to give.

EDIT:: Nup gotta share it around a little, next time.
 
That's funny the stator cover bubbleing. What propted you to test there? I'll see if I can give ya GREEN but I maxxed out on the 'ole Briggs carb.

Note to ALL even the best of us can sometimes be only HUMAN !! :eek:
 
Braaap, this is just the thing that we need on this excellent forum.

Thanks for your input.

I think I have a bit of green up my sleeve to give.

EDIT:: Nup gotta share it around a little, next time.

That's funny the stator cover bubbleing. What propted you to test there? I'll see if I can give ya GREEN but I maxxed out on the 'ole Briggs carb.

Note to ALL even the best of us can sometimes be only HUMAN !! :eek:

I had the same problem! I tried to give him green, but i have to share it around! So i guess i have to be a rep slut and give it to everybody before i can give it to people that deserve it. :eek:
 
Thanks for the rep (or attempted rep!), guys! But Im just glad to post this so perhaps somebody will learn from my mistake and keep from blowing their top end.
 
That's funny the stator cover bubbleing. What propted you to test there?

I actually saw the leak before pulling the cover by accident. After watching the needle drop on the gauge, I grabbed a bottle of soapy water and started spraying around the base gasket, intake manifold, and reed cage. I didn't find any leaks there, but I must have spilled just enough soap around the stator cover to start bubbling up where you see it. Never knew a cheap stator cover gasket could seal that well.
 
Who sells the leaktesters?

Little3mil used to sell them. You can also buy a high-dollar kit from Motion Pro, but most of us guys just make our own. You'll need a 1/2" threaded x 1" diameter smooth PVC fitting for a stock intake manifold, or a 1/2" threaded x 1 1/4" diameter smooth PVC fitting for an aftermarket, 34-36mm intake manifold. Then simply source a low pressure gauge, a couple pieces of tubing and fittings, a tyre (Shrader) valve, and assemble it all. Takes about 30 minutes to build one, and shouldn't cost more than $ 35.00 or so if you shop smartly.