Why did my top end go?

Upbasher said:
Everytjing is sealed so tight air wont get in throught anywhere except the air filter for a thousand years.
Click to expand...
How can you be so sure that the engine is air tight if you have not leak tested it.

No matter how long the engine sits at idle, if you do not have the idle speed setting correct it will interfere withe the AFR when coming on to the needle circuit. It has to be correct.

Boring 20 over will not require any changes to jetting or octane rating of fuel!

I encourage you to loose your smug attitude and beg, borrow, buy or steal a leak tester, it is the most important tool in a 2 strokes mechanics tool box!
 
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See the thing is we are trying to save you money and grief.
No one is claiming to be perfect or to have never made a mistake.
In fact, that's how most of us learn, as you will soon too.
 
Upbasher said:
What temperature is normal for a blaster to run at
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Concern yourself not about the temp of a Blaster engine.

If you have no air leaks, confirmed by leak testing, use a good oil at a sensible ratio and jet correctly, confirmed by a plug chop, the temperature will look after itself!
 
Upbasher said:
What temperature is normal for a blaster to run at
Click to expand...
If you do a plug chop to confirm your jetting, and leak test to see if the engine is airtight, the temperature will take care of itself providing that there is ample air flow accross the engine.
 
The answer to the Pilot jet question is 99% of the time stock pilot is just fine. Most changes are to the Main jet and or adjusting the needle.
 
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jus_me said:
The answer to the Pilot jet question is 99% of the time stock pilot is just fine. Most changes are to the Main jet and or adjusting the needle.
Click to expand...

Thank you that helps a lot. Now I guess what I realky mean by the temperature question is Is there a quick surefire way to see if it is too hot? Assuming I have already done a leak test and pllug chop. Because even after that I will still want to keep checking
 
A proper plug chop will tell you how she is running. If you are experienced you can feel and hear the difference. Just starting out and on a new rebuild you need to do a plug chop, after a proper leakdown test.

I can almost guarantee you will find a leak somewhere when you do the first leakdown test. They really like to leak at the intake where the reeds either meet the cyl or where they meet the carb boot. Trying to properly jet a 2 stroke with an air leak is pointless..
 
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jus_me said:
They really like to leak at the intake where the reeds either meet the cyl or where they meet the carb boot.
Click to expand...

The main problem with the reed block and the carb boot leaking is because of incorrect tightening of the bolts.

Overtighten them more than 5.8 ft lbs and the boot may warp and leak.
 
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