vm34 carb on my blaster boggs and dies on take off?????

i talked to the guy at carb parts warehouse. i took apart my carb and my emulsion tube is a 159-q2 which he said was way to lean so i got a 159-q5 coming. but i put my stock bored carb back on so i could go riding today and i have an air leak somewere cant get the idle to go down and the plug is light brown with a speck of dark grey(too lean for my liking) and it didnt have the balls it should :( it ran awsome b4 i took the stock carb off. i checked all around the boot and the airbox top of carb it has new crank seals so im thinkin its the base gasket seeings how i have a spacer plate one may have blown out.....
 
You have a leak tester right? Well you know what to do..

Did you re torque properly after heat cycles or for whatever reason you took the cylinder off.??
 
jreds4mill said:
i talked to the guy at carb parts warehouse. i took apart my carb and my emulsion tube is a 159-q2 which he said was way to lean so i got a 159-q5 coming. but i put my stock bored carb back on so i could go riding today and i have an air leak somewere cant get the idle to go down and the plug is light brown with a speck of dark grey(too lean for my liking) and it didnt have the balls it should :( it ran awsome b4 i took the stock carb off. i checked all around the boot and the airbox top of carb it has new crank seals so im thinkin its the base gasket seeings how i have a spacer plate one may have blown out.....
Click to expand...

IMO...I would normally tell someone the old standard , do a leak down test. The problem is test is just a static test , not a dynamic one. I would use carb cleaner to pinpoint the gasket leak while running if you can.
 
I would never spray carb cleaner or starting fluid in my motors. The reason is obvious. The leak test will pressurize the crankcase and any leak will show when sprayed with soapy water. Same principle as finding a leak in a tire. If you suspect you have an airleak, chances are you are already lean. Spraying carb cleaner will further complicate things.
 
Wifesblaster said:
I would never spray carb cleaner or starting fluid in my motors. The reason is obvious. The leak test will pressurize the crankcase and any leak will show when sprayed with soapy water. Same principle as finding a leak in a tire. If you suspect you have an airleak, chances are you are already lean. Spraying carb cleaner will further complicate things.
Click to expand...

So you have never seen a motor that has an air leak only when it runs . A lot of single lip seals will do that . Some double lip seals will too. I did not say to spray it IN the motor , just on the outside. If the base gasket is leaking it will rev the motor up from idle .
I agree..Starting fluid should not be used in a 2 cycle since it has no oil, but WD-40 can be used instead.
 
rich1 said:
So you have never seen a motor that has an air leak only when it runs . A lot of single lip seals will do that . Some double lip seals will too. I did not say to spray it IN the motor , just on the outside. If the base gasket is leaking it will rev the motor up from idle .
I agree..Starting fluid should not be used in a 2 cycle since it has no oil, but WD-40 can be used instead.
Click to expand...

Not that it cant happen, but I personally have never seen an air leak that only leaks while running. I'm not saying it cant happen, I have never seen it though.
 
ya i retorqued everything.... i checked the left side crank seal, the carb, the intake boot and airbox boot and the base gasket and got nothing there is something messed up. i can turn the idle screw on top of the TORS all the way out and it does nothing i took everything apart to see if it was getting caught up and everything was fine. i stuck a brand new set of reeds in with new gaskets and started it back up and its still doin the same thing. i tried sprayin wd40 around the base gasket and carb and boots and nothing happened.....so im about to light this f**kin thing on fire
 
is it possible that the tors being bypassed but still using the tors carb top b the problem? messing stuff up makin it idle way to high or do u still think its an air leak?
 
Check you cable and make sure you have free play in your throttle. Where is the air screw set. Float level set right?
 
ik i have an air leak....throttle cable has play in it the slide was sitting as far down as it could. wen i back the screw out on the tors on top of carb it does nothing i litterally had to turn the air fuel screw in so it would get more fuel at idle and try to bogg it down so it wouldnt revv to the moon! with my luck its prolly the case halfs that i had to mill for the extra stroke for the +4 crank even tho i used yamabond they were a lil thin in one spot with my luck its prolly there.....even tho i didnt ride it very much
 
ya i just gotta get my pump im using one of the radiator pressure checkers that is a hand held pump with the gauge on it, except instead of the hose goin into a radiator cap its gonna go into my plug in the carb boot. just gotta seal of my exhaust but i got good thick rubber gasket, i got a peice from work haha but has neone else had ne problems with their case halfs that had a +4 stroker????
 
im located in fort ann......and i found the problem which is really wierd....its leaking thru the stator bolt hole.....so wut do i do now i already repaired it wen it was all apart wen i was doing the stroker kit.....do i have tyo pull this pos back apart ive gotten to ride it like 5 times for about 5 to 10 minutes each and already this happened
 
jreds4mill said:
im located in fort ann......and i found the problem which is really wierd....its leaking thru the stator bolt hole.....so wut do i do now i already repaired it wen it was all apart wen i was doing the stroker kit.....do i have tyo pull this pos back apart ive gotten to ride it like 5 times for about 5 to 10 minutes each and already this happened
Click to expand...


sounds like it is the case halves leaking and finding it's way out the stator bolt. were those bolts torqued to spec ?

unfortunately it may be time to split them again.
leakdown test before installing it into the frame and running it this time
 
whats the worst that can happen if i got it to seal off with yamabond? not lookin for negative remarks or nething cuz ik its not the "right" thing to do but i have another motor i can build on the side so i was just wondering thx
 
If you know its not the "right" thing, why would you do it?

No offense, but just saying...

Are you saying slapping some on it? Or splitting the halves and sealing? because splitting and sealing is good
 
im talkin about puttin it in the holes and then puttin screws in then let it sit overnight and cure. then if it still leaks ill split the cases.....again
 
jreds4mill said:
im talkin about puttin it in the holes and then puttin screws in then let it sit overnight and cure. then if it still leaks ill split the cases.....again
Click to expand...
Its your motor. Do as you wish, it may seal for the time being and leak in a week or so or it could be fine.. I understand you wanting to ride but for piece of mind I would split them again and do it proper.. It will probably work but i am not recommending it. I am guessing your going to find out. Just check it often..
 
It will only be a matter of time before it leaks there or somewhere else. I know you don't want to hear it, but do it right or keep doing it wrong.
 
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