This will be a long thread so please bear with me. I have a Blaster with an out of control rev problem. After a few minutes of warming up a slight bump on the throttle will cause the engine to go into uncontrolled revs to the point that the only way to kill the engine is to pop it into gear. The engine has a new crank,seals,bearings,piston,fresh bore,carb boot and a very low hour carb off a 1996 Blaster. When you ride the engine makes good power all the way through the powerband but as soon as you pull in the clutch it revs as high as it can. My local bike shop did a leak down test said i needed a carb boot ordered a new boot and installed a different carb, had another leak down test done was told everything was ok. Put engine back in and started it idled ok a little high but ok rode for about 5 minutes then had uncontrolled revs. Took it back to the shop they checked for leaks and pulled airbox off to watch the slide during high revs said that it was all the way down. It starts on second or third kick when cold,first kick when warm. The shop said they have no idea what the problem is, but are sure its not the carb.Running 100 octane at 32:1 injector removed. This shop is a dirt bike and atv shop. Please help i have 900 bucks in this thing so far and i just dropped it off at another race bike shop tonight that said they would spend 1 hour looking at it. If they can't figure out a solution within an hour i'm on my own.
UNCONTROLED REVS MONEY FLYING OUT OF WALLET
- Thread starter cirtcele1
- Start date
one of 3 things here
1. there could be a air leak somewere.
2. the tors could be acting up.
3. your throttle cable could be sticking or pulling out of the carb (the lining)
1. there could be a air leak somewere.
2. the tors could be acting up.
3. your throttle cable could be sticking or pulling out of the carb (the lining)
It is an air leak. Check everything on the intake side of the motor, and all seals and gaskets on the motor.
see where the box is on the handle bars on the trottle, screw off the 3 screws and put a bit of 2 in 1 oil around there. my quad used to do it and i just rang up my dealer and he said to do it and straight away it worked i was amazed. lol just something to try
be sure to check the base gasket i just had the same thing happen to me and that was the problem after that i would chech all the cables and connections in the throttle
I guess i should have made this a little more clear. We know the engine has an air leak, the problem is the bike shop has tried spraying the engine while its running and everything else they could think of to find the leak. It will idle when warm but if you give it the slightest amount of throttle the revs continue to build after releasing the throttle. As stated before the slide returns to the closed position when throttle is released. Has anyone ever had a crack that opens up when warm cause this problem? I've been told that this engine may have been into deep water and filled the airbox when running.
Is the carb stock with the tors on top, or has it been removed?
I had a problem with my boys mini once were the cable was to short and the slide wouldn't close completely, was very hard to tune. You should be able to hear the slide click when it bottoms out in the carb, then adjust from there.
I would also try running your air screw in some to see if it gets any better, you might need a larger pilot jet.
I had a problem with my boys mini once were the cable was to short and the slide wouldn't close completely, was very hard to tune. You should be able to hear the slide click when it bottoms out in the carb, then adjust from there.
I would also try running your air screw in some to see if it gets any better, you might need a larger pilot jet.
did you check the gasket around the crank case and cylinder to case gasket?
there is no way that one of the crank seals got put in backward is there?
there is no way that one of the crank seals got put in backward is there?
ok for some of the people on here, tors will not do this, bad jetting will not do this. it is a air leak somewhere. check all the gasket is, and sh*t for anything. also check the intake tube for a cut or something.
Tors itself won't do it, your correct, but the contraption on top of the carb could be effecting the slide if it's still there.
You say it idles fine when warm, but give it a little throttle and the revs build after releasing the throttle.
That's why I'm asking about the carb. It's acting like the slide is not closing.
Did the shop look at the slide with the quad running?
The stock carb has a couple screws in the slide that hold the cable in place, could they be loose?? Or missing?
You could open the slide with the throttle and then hold the slide in place with a finger and try to move the throttle back and forth, if there is some play in the throttle when you do this the slide may not be closing when the motor is running.
You say it idles fine when warm, but give it a little throttle and the revs build after releasing the throttle.
That's why I'm asking about the carb. It's acting like the slide is not closing.
Did the shop look at the slide with the quad running?
The stock carb has a couple screws in the slide that hold the cable in place, could they be loose?? Or missing?
You could open the slide with the throttle and then hold the slide in place with a finger and try to move the throttle back and forth, if there is some play in the throttle when you do this the slide may not be closing when the motor is running.
Try removing the oil injection plug. Mine has a after market carb, and has had it since I bought it so I don't know the specifics on the stock carb. But at one time I plugged off one of the connections on my carb and it did the exact same thing. Im not sure what my carb came from but I can only assume that this connection was for oil injection. I took the plug off and it never happened again.
mine did this exact thing, it wasnt an air leak. It was somethin f*cked up in the carb, i had a rebuild kit, jet kit, and a new bowl gasket put in and now its fine but it sticks a tad.
I got the Blaster back from the shop today turned out to be some kind of problem with the tors device right above the carb. I would of bet it was an air leak like the first shop that looked at it said was the problem. Glad i decided to take it to someone else instead of splitting the cases like the first shop suggested. Thank you all for your suggestions and i hope this thread helps someone else.I:I
