UH OH, Split cases today!! What to do !

[sporty982000]

Well,

After doing leak down today. I tried for a few hours. I could not get it to build any pressure. First thought it was my gauge I made/ tester. Connections.

Nope.

So I split the cases and what did I find !!

Left case:

Nice size whole !!!


Right case:
Awl pointing to a crack.

Dont know if you can see, but two cracks on the right case.

Well looks like I need both cases. I am also wondering when I noticed the balancer was not in alignment. the dots not lined up. if this caused the cracks on the right case. Or also where part of that former piston skirt hit or both.

Clearer you can see the nice whole in the first pic of the left case, where the piston skirt part, damaged the case.

The good news, is the new piston and top end, still look brand new and in great shape. So no damage there.

I didnt think there would be any, cuz as I mentioned, when I did get it to run for a few seconds, it was smoking bad, sucking all that crankcase oil.

Was hoping it was a seal, but replaced them all earlier today and yesterday. But failed the leak test.

So, Now I got to decide to get some used cases or a used motor.

Now sure what to do. I guess it depends on what I can find or get for the best price.

Sporty

 

[blasterBruce]

Get in touch with Sicivicdude about the Cases , he repairs them and Should take your cases plus cash for a good repaired set !

 

[sporty982000]

Thats good to know. Thanks Bruce.

Sporty

 

[blasterBruce]

No Problem , If my spare bottom end wasn't put together I would Probably sell the cases , but not ready to yet if I don't need to

 

[dksix]

Were you able to find the chuck that's missing? I'd say having it would make the repair easier.

 

[sporty982000]

Yes I have the missing piece.

 

[bummer981]

Damn that sucks, was hoping you would get out of it with the new seals.

 

[245stroker]

I'd try to fix those cases or get a new set. Atleast you'll know what you have by rebuilding that motor. Always a gamble when buying a motor, imo.

 

[sicivicdude]

I'd try to fix those cases or get a new set. Atleast you'll know what you have by rebuilding that motor. Always a gamble when buying a motor, imo.

That's actually how I got into repairing cases 8-| I bought one "good" motor off CL and two "parts lots" motors off ebay and all three had some defect in the case! The "good" motor had a big hole where the chain had popped the case and both of the case sets from Ebay had chain rash, broken piston damage, or both!

I'm extra cautious about buying whole motors now unless someone I know has looked down inside it to confirm that it's complete or I plan on tearing it apart anyway to put it "under the knife".

We discussed it through PM about my "price" but there's no mystery so no need to hide it away in PM's... My normal fee is $50 per side (basically) regardless of the severity. Your right side case isn't bad and won't take that long to repair but your left side makes up for it in needing a lot of attention. The piece that broke out really doesn't help much, a tig welder adds so much heat to cast aluminum to get the impurities out (so it will weld aluminum to aluminum) that the small part will melt away long before it will actually bond to the rest of the case. I generally use filler to put the cases back together when they're like that.

 

[dksix]

I know what you mean about being cautious with engines. I've got extra cases that I know is good but don't want to come off them because I've not been into the engine that came with my 06. I can't see anything wrong by looking down into it but I can't be sure until I've got it apart.

 

[sporty982000]

Ya seen a few ebay engines / cases. that you could clearly see damage. I send them a message about it, hmm. no reply. Got to be carefull. To many people trying to burn ya. Or just dont know what they really are selling.

Ya $50 per case. I'll pass for now. I'm craxy and will try and use JB weld to make the repair. If it can last long enough, until I get that spare parts blaster with the good enging from my cousin. That would be just fine.

Sporty

 

[scotj77]

jb weld will not hold too much, heat pressure and fluids in there. do not try to jb weld it. you will just distroy more stuff. just wait until you can afford to fix it properly. half ass fixes cost 10x the real fix

 

[sporty982000]

jb weld will not hold too much, heat pressure and fluids in there. do not try to jb weld it. you will just distroy more stuff. just wait until you can afford to fix it properly. half ass fixes cost 10x the real fix

I new the flak was coming. J/K,. You only looking out for what is right and should be done and I agree. Just did it this way for now.

I actually JB welded a case on a 2 stroke 40 horse evinrude outboard engine. it lasted 4 years like that. which was about 8 hours of engine run time a month, during the summer.

So, if it will last until I get that other motor. then Im fine with it, if it fails, it fails. Its also a good way for me to share with people on here, that its not the brightest thing to do, but it can work.

I used a dremel to grind the area of the crack, front and back and ruff up, before using JB weld on both sides. Also used acetone to clean area well, I did this 3 times.

The left case, with the whole., same thing, except for I did not remove crank and could not easily get into there to sand. I removed some of the material from the broken piece, along with the whoel area.

I did 3 light coats, layers of JB weld. build up. I added every 3 hours on back and front.
The broken piece, did leave it not flush. so some 400 grit sand paper,, made it even with the rest of the case.

All we do is ride around the yard and in the country. we lucky to go thru 5 tanks of gas a year. except in winter when I plow with my lt300e.

So I feel im willing to risk failure, until I get the other motor. with how we ride and how little we ride.


a bit of JB weld info:

Like metal, J-B WELD can be formed, drilled, ground, tapped, machined, filled, sanded, and painted. It stays pliable for about 30 minutes after mixing, sets in 4-6 hours, and cures fully in 15-24 hours. It's water-proof; petroleum-, chemical-, and acid-resistent; resists shock, vibration, and extreme temperature fluctuations, and withstands temperatures up to 500° F



Properties (psi)

Tensile Strength:3960
Adhesion:1800
Flex Strength:7320
Tensile Lap Shear:1040
Shrinkage:0.0%
Resistant to:500° F