New to the thread, I have a 2000 blaster it was running fine until the other day when it started to act like it was running out of gas and just shut off on me. I tried re starting it and it was turning over just fine but wouldn't start. I let it sit for a while and started it. It fired up but it wouldn't idle on it's own. I tried hitting the throttle and it kinda bogged down and cut off. Let it sit a while longer because it won't start again right away. But today I got it started and it was reving off the throttle without stalling but when I let off the throttle it seemed as if it was stuck revving at hi rpm I cut the switch off and turned the key off and it just keep revving so I closed the choke and it cut off. This is my first quad and I am learning on it and I don't want to even try to bring it back out until I solve this problem. Any help is appreciated
Troubles starting my blaster
- Thread starter Str8blasted
- Start date
sounds like a carb problem but then when you say you turned the key off and it still reved up that sounds like you have a wiring problem do you still have the TORS hooked up
I tried disconnecting my tors at the carb and box and I couldn't get it to start. This happened when I reconnected those two connectors and started it
You have a bad air leak in your engine. There is nothing electrically wrong; it got so hot from running lean the other day that it ran away from you. When a 2-stroke engine runs lean, it can develop a hot spot in the top of the cylinder head that acts like a glow plug. This temporary hot spot will keep on igniting the fuel and air mix in the cylinder, even after the normal spark has been shut off. Think of how a Diesel engine works. The engine will continue to run, out-of-control, until you either find another way to put out the fire, or it gets so hot that it burns up. In this case, you cooled it off by pulling out the choke, and the engine was finally able to shut off. Hopefully no internal damage was caused.
Now, about fixing your problem... I'd be willing to bet a seal or gasket blew out on you. Read around on the site about how to do a cylinder leakdown test. There is plenty of info about that here. PM Holeshotman; he sells the testers if u don't wanna make one. Make or buy a tester, do the leakdown test, and I bet you'll find either a blown gasket or a bad seal somewhere. An air leak in a Blaster engine will make it hard to start, not idle, and lose power.
Now, about fixing your problem... I'd be willing to bet a seal or gasket blew out on you. Read around on the site about how to do a cylinder leakdown test. There is plenty of info about that here. PM Holeshotman; he sells the testers if u don't wanna make one. Make or buy a tester, do the leakdown test, and I bet you'll find either a blown gasket or a bad seal somewhere. An air leak in a Blaster engine will make it hard to start, not idle, and lose power.
Thanks for your fast reply's. Would this situation occur even if the quad wasn't running for a whole minute?
Yes, once you've got a leak, it won't go away and things happen fast. As soon as the engine fires, it will get hot and can heat up and run away in a matter of 30 seconds or so if it is too lean. The problem happens faster if you rev it with the throttle several times. Either way, it has to be fixed, or you'll fry the top end. Do the leakdown test and find the problem before trying to start it again.
before you do any major teardowns. take the plastic cover off the shifter side of your motor. take the flywheel off then the stator plate. clean the stator with some fine grit sandpaper and do the same with the inside of the flywheel. then put the stator back on then the flywheel. hold the flywheel in place with some big ass channel locks then tighten that center bolt as tight as you can. then get someone bigger to tighten it more. put your cover back on then start it. it should run normal now. i have the exact same problem with my 2000 and this fixed it. i tried plug, carb, intake, reeds, filter, exhaust, tank, coil, EVERYTHING and this worked.
I am going to the hardware store this weekend to see if I can make my own leakdown tester. But I have a question. A friend of mines has a compression tester for automotive use. Will this give me a clue to if I have a leak also?
The compression tester will only tell you how well the piston rings are sealing, not if there are any air leaks in the engine. It is wise to do a compression test as well as a leakdown test, but the comp test alone won't pinpoint your problem.
b4 u do anything crazy just check the float bowl! u could have a piece of dirt in a jet. give it a good cleaning b4 u decide to go all out. could some minor sh*t it happened to me alotta times and all i did was clean the carb I:I
Okay so Ive been thinking that dirt in the carb would lean it out creating that hot spot which kept the motor running. So before I built my own tester this weekend I thought I would take off my carb and inspect and clean it. As I was about to try an take my carb off I noticed that there is two brown hoses that come from the carb. The top one next to the linkage that goes to the trans is not connected to anything on the other end. And the bottom one is short and also not going to anything and is pretty dirty at the tip. Is this supposed to be like this? Could this be my problem here?
The two ones on the side pointed down is the overflow. That's normal. The other that goes in the trans is the oil pump line. If its not connected to anything then the oil pump has been removed or blocked off. U better hope u been premixing ur gas! If not u may have damaged the head running it with no oil or close to frying it
The two brown hoses are not capped they are just opened but the black line is going to the trans
Oh man that's not good. That line is the line that feeds ur motor oil. If that line is cut without premixing ur gas u better NOT start it like that. U gotta see if the oil pump has been removed behind that cover. Not the whole case but the small cover I think has like 4 phillips heads.
There is a hose that comes from the tank with the motor oil in it and leads to the trans. And next to that line on the trans is another hose that goes to the carb. Is this line feeding the carb the oil or am I missing something? The previous owner said everything is all original and that I shouldn't mix my gasoline or it will not run right. And he also told me I needed to buy yamalube for it. And it was running and shifting pretty good for the first week of me riding.
the pump sucks oil from the oil tank and pumps it to the carb. carb burns gas then spits the oil to the head. if he didnt remove the pump then u are fine. just buy yamahalube 2S for that bottle in the back. most guys here remove the pump bc it could cause alotta problems. but ure good for now. as long as theres no cracks in the lines and when u clean the carb make sure u connect all the lines back in bc one time i forgot and realized it a block later. couldve been BAD> so i removed the pump. i feel safer mixing my own and KNOWING that oil is getting in the top end. read up on the oil pump theres tons of threads on it about WHY ppl remove them and so on.. also u should bleed the oil lines if u remove the carb bc there could b air bubbles in the lines and that split second of oil deprivation could fry ur motor. so i heard
when i get home today i plan on taking my carb off. yesterday i was having trouble. i dont know if i take the tors box off or leave it on or what. and the line to the pump was kinda hard to get off so i left it alone before i broke anything and i came and researched. couldnt really find what i was looking for but i did get a few pointers on taking the line off. my question is what do i do with the tors box on top, cant really figure that out.
as for the oil line that goes into the carb, theres a metal lil clamp right? all u do is twist it off the line then slide the line off. as far as the TORS on the carb, just unscrew the cap and slide the throttle out. make sure u put it back in right. if u wanna remove the TORS read the DIY section. all the info u need is there
