transfer ports

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sicivicdude

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Apr 7, 2010
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Best brings up a good point so lets go into this....

Blaster engines have 4 transfer ports, the two primary transfers are on the "front" of the engine closest to the exhaust port. They're aimed gently upwards and fairly smooth. The back two, secondary transfer ports, actually have a rather unusual shape.... they come up towards the cylinder but then have a "kicker" at the very top back corner.

I always figured this was a "smoothing" technique for the powerband employed by yamaha. When I port a secondary transfer port, I always smooth that area out to a "bulb" but Best brings up the idea of epoxying that small pocket in.

Thoughts on this?
 
This has been enlightening folks.... 8-|

I have read that the "kicker" area as it's called is there to direct the charge outwards into the cylinder and keep it away from the boost port. It may help slightly in scavenging, or it could just create turbulence. I'd be interested to see if it filled in makes the quad perform better or worse....
 
You make my head hurt 8-| Now I have to go look to see what you are talking about. Then I have to think (ouchee) of what I learned from Jennings and Bell. Then I have to invision why and could it be better. I:I

Would presume it would have to do with the shape of a stock head. With a modded head it would probably benifit from a different shape. B)

To early, my head feels like it has too narrow of a squish :D
 
some pretty good reading in here man

2 Stroke Port Enhancements with Piston Ramps

not sure if i agree that smoothing the top of the transfers would keep the tiny bit of fresh charge from exiting the cylinder on the exhaust stroke tho

Interesting about the top of the piston around the edges. I would think that the added benefit of that mod would offset a well designed head though...
 
"My final thoughts is that this .8mm ramp will have the greatest effects on engines w/o a high peak rpm."

Copied from that linc. To me sounds like that leaves out "our" application. Actually same thing that Vito's does on ex side.
 
Interesting page that: GRUBEE ENGINE MOTORIZED BICYCLE INFO

About beveling the edges of pistons, I have done it on the exhaust port side to test for the effects of raising the exhaust port without destroying a cylinder. Jennings recommended it in his book and I tried it before porting the exhaust. I progressively removed a slice of material off the top of the piston to test the effect on rpm band on a 74 CR250 and a 76 DT250 I had owned. Cylinders were expensive, pistons replaceable, so modify the piston first.

I had tried this on several snowmobiles but found exhaust timing changes messed up the clutch engagement, so I saved myself some expensive grief at the cost of replacing a well worn piston.

This was not so much a bevel, as a cut across the top of the piston crown. Down perhaps 1mm max down towards the ring and 10mm in toward the center of the piston on the crown to test porting mods. Like this picture from the GRUBEE ENGINE MOTORIZED BICYCLE webpage, but more in toward center of the piston.
PistonRamp.jpg


I don't remember any effect on crown burn patterns, but I wasn't looking for any either. It was a temporary mod to test the effect on rpm range before I ground the roof of the exhaust port. When I had the effect I was looking for, or actually when I had gone too far on the piston, I ground the previously successful measurement into the roof of the exhaust.

Neil and I did not use this method when we ground his Blaster exhaust port. We followed the port height of his DT200 which we knew how well it worked. Actually we had planned to play it safe by cutting less than this but he found the metal came off faster than he was aiming for and we ended up on the full measurement.

I do recall that the cut down pistons had a bad effect on rings. Piston showed much more blow by. Overall, I would not recommend this as a permanent modification, but just as a testing tool.

As for the beveled transfer port, worth testing but considering the dynamics involved (dropping piston edge, need for a sharp initial break, effect on timing) I do not think it is a good direction to go. Hard to tell if the poster's results are from improved flow or changes in transfer timing. I'd suggest transfer timing. Wide powerband modification webpage

About the "pocket" in the transfer ports: Sorry to say, the DT200 has the same pocket when I looked harder. Neil and I have decided to not mess with it. Other than the higher intake port (which I am not convinced has any effect) and higher exhaust port (and powervalve) the porting on the DT200 seems identical to the Blaster. This is good news. An easy cylinder head mod and exhaust port grind and you are into the realm of doubling your horsepower. Triplecrown's Blaster has proven this to be true.

So, Neil and I are leaving this area alone at the moment.
Next cylinder mod is stuffing the reed box to reduce volume and keep flow velocity up.
Plan is to fill the sides of the box up with epoxied aluminum plates to have the reed block fit tighter, and to build up the intake port divider and sides with epoxy for the same reason. I'll try to get pictures and we will see how it works. Neil's Blaster is working pretty darned good as it is, getting too darned close to catching up with my KTM!

I have a couple heads to be modified in the machine shop. Going to machine one over 50% squish area , one under 50% squish area, both aimed for about 20cc volume and a simple toroidal sort of shape. We will see how they turn out.
 
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I wonder if those "pockets" in the back of the secondary transfer ports are there to smooth out the powerband or direct the transfer port flow out and away from the boost port flow?

In other words, would filling them in help or hurt?
 
I wonder if those "pockets" in the back of the secondary transfer ports are there to smooth out the powerband or direct the transfer port flow out and away from the boost port flow?

In other words, would filling them in help or hurt?

My guess is that the pocket is a complicated shape designed to work at slower flow rates and be bypassed at faster flow rates. I played with a stream of water on it to try to figure out what it does but no firm conclusions. Try flipping the cylinder upside down in the sink and running the water from the tap through the transfer ports to watch the flow.

I really don't know for sure. The only way to know would be to fill them in and try it.
I suppose we could fill them in with JB Quick weld and then remove it with a propane torch if it didn't turn out?
Our (Neil and I) problem is finding the time to do it. Summer hits the Great White North with a brief fury. Gotta use every moment of sunshine.
I am packing for a weekend canoe trip and we'd rather be riding than wrenching...

Ewww, canoeing! I get so excited!
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I KNOW I am at the shore, but at the shore WHERE?
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I'm thinking this thing needs a motor. How about a 2 stroke whipper snipper with a prop? Stuffed, ported, polished and piped of course!
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