Total rebuild of a 95 Blaster

95back2life

New Member
Feb 27, 2013
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Hi everyone. I am new to the forum and looking forward to meeting and working with everyone. I have a new project and I am looking for some advise. My plan is to rebuild this machine and sell it. I bought this for $150. I am no stranger when it comes to rebuilds. Last year I totally restored a 97 arctic cat zrt 800 tripple. Yes I love old school power. Since I have no snow it was time for a new project. The blaster did not run when I bought it. It had a weak spark and wouldn't kick over. I took the flywheel cover off and it was loaded with water. I dried all that out and had good spark. It still wouldn't start so I pulled the carb. I pulled off the float bowl and there was white creamy gas in it. It had white build up everywhere. Jets were totally clogged. I cleaned everything up and put it back on. Wham, 3rd kick and it fired! The pipe was only on loosely with 1 bolt so I didn't run it long. Now everything was pulled off down to the bare frame. Things that have already been done are the key switch was bypassed, the oil tank disconnected, the tors system totally removed. Is there anything else I should do while it is all tore down? I am looking for opinions on the color scheme. Let me know what you guys and gals think. I'm really anxious to get it back together. And thanks in advance. Nice meeting you all. I will get some pics up when it let's me.
 
Not quite sure. I know it was bored out when rebuilt. It does not have a silencer for it. I didn't want to run it long. Is there something I should be looking for? Thanks.
 
It would be a great idea to leak test it.



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Definitely. I am looking to have the frame cleaned and painted today. Maybe some other parts also. All day in the garage with beer, music, and tools. Don't get any better then that.
 
So I got some things painted yesterday. Here is my paint scheme so far. I have my frame green, my a-arms black, springs yellow, steering post and handlebars black, foot rests black. I need to figure out the color of my plastics and seat yet. Can't wait to get her all back together.
 
Ok guys hit a road block and need help. I got the engine back in and now the kill switch doesn't stop the engine. It has the key switch bypassed. Even if I unplug the switch it still runs. I don't even have the wiring hooked up for the kill and it still runs. Any ideas?
 
I did have it out. I took out the tors wiring and the level sensor for oil tank since I pre mix. I still have to figure out how to connect my on off start switch.
 
So I figured it out. It was actually the inside of my switch. The 2 contacts seperated and were not making the ground connection to kill the engine. Thanks to all.
 
Good work. It's always helpful to have a decent electrical meter when you're dealing with these problems, most meters you can pick up at the hardware store for 50$ + will have an arrow with a little speaker you can set the dial to, this setting will create an audible beep when you touch the leads together creating continuity. Using this setting you can quickly "ring out" a switch or other device to see if it is working as it's supposed to. Now post some pics : )