TORS Functional Explanation

[KingJPW]

Here is my attempt to explain the operation of the TORS system found on our Blasters.

The TORS system (Throttle Override System) is intended to cut power to spark plug when an unsafe condition occurs. It does not affect fuel flow.

Consult your wiring diagram and note that there are three ways in which the spark can be prevented; 1) Main switch 2) Kill switch and 3) TORS system. All three prevent spark by “GROUNDING the Black/White Striped (B/W) wire to the frame”.

BTW, If you want add an additional Kill switch (like a tethered wrist strap), simply connect one side (tap into) to the B/W wire and then connect the other wire to Ground.

Item/Function:
TORS Control Unit - Decides to kill spark, based on input from Throttle Switch and Carb Switch.
Throttle Switch – Indicates to TORS if thumb is applying throttle.
Carb Switch – Indicates to TORS if the valve inside carb is down or up.

To be clear I will use ‘thumb’ to refer to the thumb throttle and ‘valve’ to refer to throttle valve inside carb.

With two switches, there are four conditions which may exist:
1) Normal Operation, No thumb and valve down (idling)
2) Normal Operation, Full thumb and valve up (WOT)
3) TORS Fault: No thumb and VALVE UP! Danger!
4) TORS Fault: Full thumb and valve down. (idling) Not good but who cares?

So there you have it. TORS is designed to kill spark when condition #3 exists.

 

[davenichole]

on number 2, you would not necessarily need full thumb.

i have noticed a person selling rebuilt carbs on ebay that states TORS kills the engine if there is a rollover, which is incorrect.

 

[Herpderplol]

So there you have it. TORS is designed to kill spark when condition #3 exists.

Except it doesnt work.

Its there for legal reasons. For some reason they needed it on two-strokes, then they banned two-strokes...

Its only there so they dont get sued...

 

[Larry's Shee]

All I can say is
W O W ! ! !​

This thread is more waste of space than "I think your sig is to big" 8-|




JNHO, your results may, and will vary I:I

​

 

[blasterdemon7]

All I can say is
W O W ! ! !​

This thread is more waste of space than "I think your sig is to big" 8-|




JNHO, your results may, and will vary I:I

​

You should be used to it from being on that other forum.

 

[KingJPW]

Except it doesn't work.

Right, the purpose of this post was to explain how it is supposed to work. I think it is incorrect to say 'it doesn't work'. The test whether TORS works or not is to bind throttle valve in carb, then release thumb and see if the spark cuts out.

The problem is that TORS can improperly kill the spark when components malfunction, which is annoying.

It's funny, but when someone can't start their Blaster, everyone says 'Remove the TORS', but no one says 'Here's what to do to get your TORS back in good shape.' I hope with this post people will have better information to remove or fix the TORS.

 

[KingJPW]

This thread is more waste of space than "I think your sig is too big" 8-|
​

You must be joking, look at all the great content I provided. 100% informative content with 0% fluff. See the pic of my Blaster to the left, and a signature with everything you need to know about my baby below Why can't everyone be like me? 8-|

 

[Larry's Shee]

#29, switch assembly $153 :http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2000-yamaha-blaster-200-yfs200m/o/m145954#sch104689
#23, throttle switch $84 :http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2000-yamaha-blaster-200-yfs200m/o/m145954#sch107823

So you would spend $230 to "fix" your TORS? Not to mention it could be a cdi malfunction which cannot be tested

 

[Larry's Shee]

Let me google that for you

See if YOU can find one for the Blaster. If not, write up a "How to DIY" and you will be Google famous. I:I

Be sure to include all the "fun" you have jetting your carb with the "brick" on, or how far you were towed because it malfunctioned on the trails 8-|

 

[Herpderplol]

Right, the purpose of this post was to explain how it is supposed to work. I think it is incorrect to say 'it doesn't work'. The test whether TORS works or not is to bind throttle valve in carb, then release thumb and see if the spark cuts out.

The problem is that TORS can improperly kill the spark when components malfunction, which is annoying.

It's funny, but when someone can't start their Blaster, everyone says 'Remove the TORS', but no one says 'Here's what to do to get your TORS back in good shape.' I hope with this post people will have better information to remove or fix the TORS.

So you are saying, you came on and made this post just to say it doesn't work? I agree with Larry, pointless

You must be joking, look at all the great content I provided. 100% informative content with 0% fluff. See the pic of my Blaster to the left, and a signature with everything you need to know about my baby below Why can't everyone be like me? 8-|

Because we were here first. And to quote my friend "WE DO WHAT WE WANT"

 

[89blaster89]

geez give the guy a break hes just trying to help out

 

[KingJPW]

Be sure to include all the "fun" you have jetting your carb with the "brick" on, or how far you were towed because it malfunctioned on the trails 8-|

My TORS is mostly gone, but I still have that brick on top. Recently I had to remove the tank to get carb off. If I eliminate the brick, I suppose I could get the carb out without removing the tank. That would make jetting easier for sure. Thanks for the idea.

 

[KingJPW]

So you are saying, you came on and made this post just to say it doesn't work? I agree with Larry, pointless

No, it was clear that many people were interested in how TORS works. It was written for new Blaster owners, not experts. It's only point less to people who already understand TORS, and it's limitations.

So when are you going to work on your To Do list and remove your TORS?

 

[jus_me]

My TORS is mostly gone, but I still have that brick on top. Recently I had to remove the tank to get carb off. If I eliminate the brick, I suppose I could get the carb out without removing the tank. That would make jetting easier for sure. Thanks for the idea.

Why do you have to take tank off to remove carb? I have the brick still (its deleted though) and i don't have to take tank off to remove carb..

 

[KingJPW]

Well, I was trying to get the brick off with the carb still on. Maybe I should have removed carb first and then brick? Can that be done with tank still on? If so I'll try that next time. Thx

 

[Herpderplol]

No, it was clear that many people were interested in how TORS works. It was written for new Blaster owners, not experts. It's only point less to people who already understand TORS, and it's limitations.

So when are you going to work on your To Do list and remove your TORS?

When rocky answers my email, they sent me the wrong cable... So i have to wait on that

Well, I was trying to get the brick off with the carb still on. Maybe I should have removed carb first and then brick? Can that be done with tank still on? If so I'll try that next time. Thx

And yeh, just unscrew the cap and slide the carb out. I like leaving the brick on when i work on mine, that way i dont have to worry about threading it back on wrong...

Its a pain to get it back in sometimes though

 

[Longview]

Well, I was trying to get the brick off with the carb still on. Maybe I should have removed carb first and then brick? Can that be done with tank still on? If so I'll try that next time. Thx

Geez guys, I learned from the thread. I didn't know that stuff, I had TORS deleted but still it knowledge.

Even if it was about a subject you guys don't care about it was still a nice write up.

 

[KyleJames]

Here is my attempt to explain the operation of the TORS system found on our Blasters.

The TORS system (Throttle Override System) is intended to cut power to spark plug when an unsafe condition occurs. It does not affect fuel flow.

Consult your wiring diagram and note that there are three ways in which the spark can be prevented; 1) Main switch 2) Kill switch and 3) TORS system. All three prevent spark by “GROUNDING the Black/White Striped (B/W) wire to the frame”.

BTW, If you want add an additional Kill switch (like a tethered wrist strap), simply connect one side (tap into) to the B/W wire and then connect the other wire to Ground.

Item/Function:
TORS Control Unit - Decides to kill spark, based on input from Throttle Switch and Carb Switch.
Throttle Switch – Indicates to TORS if thumb is applying throttle.
Carb Switch – Indicates to TORS if the valve inside carb is down or up.

To be clear I will use ‘thumb’ to refer to the thumb throttle and ‘valve’ to refer to throttle valve inside carb.

With two switches, there are four conditions which may exist:
1) Normal Operation, No thumb and valve down (idling)
2) Normal Operation, Full thumb and valve up (WOT)
3) TORS Fault: No thumb and VALVE UP! Danger!
4) TORS Fault: Full thumb and valve down. (idling) Not good but who cares?

So there you have it. TORS is designed to kill spark when condition #3 exists.

If you own a 03 or older and you are not getting a spark. I would recommend bypassing your TORS and then testing your spark.